MSA for sale on Ebay

David Fields · From: South Carolina, USA

Item number: 150089824870 for the MSA

Since I don't know much about pedal steel guitars I am asking for help in selecting my first one.

If the price stays down this low it seems like a good first steel pedal for me.
I asked a question if it was a starter or not and the reply was the it was an intermediate guitar.
That is about all I know about it.

There is also an older Fender, Item number: 250083616308 that is for sale at $500 for a buy it now price.
Can anyone tell anything about these two items by just looking at the pictures?
I do appreciate all help and info here!

Dave

Bill Ford · From: Graniteville SC Aiken

David,
They are both student model guitars, I would be skeptical of the Fender,it is of the Sho-Bud Maverick type. Not sure of the MSA changer, maybe someone will know if it is the same type changer. Of the two, MSA would be my pick(personal thing I have with MSA) I wouldn't go over $500 (inc. shipping) jmho.
_________________
Bill Ford S12 CLR, S12 Lamar keyless, Misc amps&toys Sharp Covers
Steeling for Jesus now!!!

Mike Perlowin · From: Los Angeles CA

David, both guitars in question have only one knee lever. You want at least three, preferably 4 or 5. A lot of today's instruction material is written for guitars that have more knee levers, and if you buy a guitar that doesn't have them, you'll only become frustrated. You would be better off with a Carter Starter (which has 4) or a GFI student model which is expandable.

When I first started, I had a borrowed Sho- Bud Maverick that also only had one knee lever, and within 2 weeks, I had already outgrown it because I had read about the other knee levers and wanted to use them.

Better to have changes on your guitar that you don't know how to use, but that you can grow into, than to not have them and find one day that your guitar won't let you play some of your ideas.
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Please visit my web site and Soundcloud page and listen to the music posted there.
http://www.mikeperlowin.com http://soundcloud.com/mike-perlowin

Andy DePaule · From: Saigon, Viet Nam & Springfield, Oregon

Mike and Bill had some good advice there.
You WILL want to have a good steel soon.
Most of the student models are not easy to ad knee levers to.

Most of those student steels have simple changers that can only raise or lower a string, but can not do both.
You WILL want a steel that can raise and lower any string a whole or a half tone. That means at least double raise and lower on every string.

I often see profesional steels going for $700.00 to $1,000.00 on e-bay... Save up a little more and buy a better steel. In the logn run you will be much more happy.

Good luck.

David Fields · From: South Carolina, USA

Thanks Guys!

That is why I became a member here...

Good advice, and great attitudes.

Bob Hoffnar · From: Austin, Tx

Be aware that steels are mechanical. If there are any problems the steel will be unplayable and repairs can be very expensive. I would not buy a pedal steel on ebay. You will very likely be wasting your money and time. You can minimize your risk by working with a steel player that knows what he is doing. Even then you are better off dealing with somebody on the forum or a dealer.

I have had good luck buying used steels recently from

http://www.stlgitr.com/

http://www.steelguitar.net/

http://www.cajunsteelguitar.com/

Others are great also.

I have checked out a couple recent Carter Starters and they work fine for getting going.

Have fun !
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Bob

Donny Hinson · From: Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.

The bottom line is that either of those steels is a "bottom line" instrument. I imagine either one might be worth about $250, but you'll probably never get them on ebay for that.

Hold off until you can afford $700-$1,000 for something decent and you'll be far happier with your purchase.

Bill Ford · From: Graniteville SC Aiken

David,
If you decide to come to Saluda this weekend, you may find something there. Best advise so far is to wait and get a pro model, I might add...get someone that knows something about psg to look at it before you buy.
_________________
Bill Ford S12 CLR, S12 Lamar keyless, Misc amps&toys Sharp Covers
Steeling for Jesus now!!!

David Fields · From: South Carolina, USA

That is by far the best thing that I could do. Looking forward to the show, by the way!

Charlie McDonald · From: out of the blue

Two cents more: the MSA is much like the Red Baron, the first steel I bought. Kind of a vacu-formed body, fairly flimsy, one lever (not much I could do with it), and tone to make you cry.
I sold it within the week.

Good advice here.
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Those that say don't know; those that know don't say.--Buddy Emmons

Jory Simmons · From: Elkhorn, Wisconsin, USA

My first steel was an MSA classic 10 with 3&4....Listed for $1400 in the late 70's and I bought mine new for $900...There a lot of these around for sale these days for around 1k and they are probably the best steel guitar buy you will find. Great for tone, playability and price. They had 4 knee levers, and were not student models.....But make great ones..and are easy to sell when your ready to move up to a higher priced model.
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Jory Simmons

Bill Duve · From: Limestone .New York, USA

Take a lesson in economics from me, I didnt ask first.........
I bought an MSA with one knee off the bay to learn on and so far have learned more about repairing it than about playing it, those knees go for 160 dollarino apiece later if you want to add them, cheaper to wait, better yet dont buy off the bay !
Also you will have a hard time getting rid of it in the end.

Jim Sliff · From: Lawndale California, USA

Just to pile on...

I had one of the Fenders, and it made me quit during my first try at pedal steel - it's a SHobud Maverick in Fender tolex, and a bottom-of-the-barrel beginner's model. I have no experience with that particular MSA, but had a Classic from the same period - the heaviest, worst-sounding steel I've ever encountered, and the case is almost useless. It's as limited as the "Fender/Shobud" as well.

There are far better (IMO) instruments than the Carter Starter as well. If you'r going to play "normal" pedal steel, then 10 strings, 3 pedals and 4 knees is the minimum, and will serve you quite well. But - with the Carter you're locked into that configuration and the E9 tuning's "somewhat standard" setup".

I'd think you would be much beter off with a student model from GFI, which many seem to think is more of an upper-intermediate" model and can be modified with additional levers/pedals. I'm sure there are other student models from other makers that allow you some future flexibility to expand the instrument as your skill grows. But the Starter, though more versatile than a Maverick, is still a permanently limited guitar.

It also depends on what music you want to play. For some styles,the whole E9 standard might be the wrong way to go - but for traditional country steel it's the normal setup.
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No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional

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