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Topic: homebuilt, THE REMEDY!!!! |
Ron Victoria
From:
New Jersey, USA
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Posted 30 Jan 2007 1:31 pm |
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I noticed a small check in the maple when I laid it out and cut it. It didn't go thru so I continued. I had the guitar put away at school for a month and had to move it today. That check developed into a sizeable crack that goes thru and continues into the bridge end about 1/2". Any filler will look like a patch and surely recrack. I'm ready to sell the tuners and throw in the towel.
Ron
Last edited by Ron Victoria on 5 Feb 2007 3:38 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Billy Gilbert
From:
Texas, USA
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Posted 30 Jan 2007 2:38 pm
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Hey Ron,
Don't give up so easy. Stew-Mac has some glues for that kind of problem.  Billy |
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Bill Creller
From:
Saginaw, Michigan, USA (deceased)
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Posted 30 Jan 2007 3:42 pm
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Hey Ron, I would go for it! Get some good glue, force it down into the crack, and clamp it the with most pressure you can. I have fixed a bunch of old guitars that were cracked, and had good results with it. I have one cut out of purple heart that is doing that. Its been laying around for two years, and I'm just waiting for it to settle down.
BILL |
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Matthew Prouty
From:
Warsaw, Poland
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Posted 31 Jan 2007 5:18 am
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Ron
Don't give up! This is actually a blessing in disguise. A glued piece of wood can actually be stronger than a natural piece with a defect.
Here are the steps to do and a recommendation on wood (no 3).
1. Get some several wood clamps, like these: (if you do not have them already)
http://woodworker.com/Clamps_Vises.htm
you need several to get a good pressure all along the crack.
2. Get some wood glue. I always used that standard white elmers type glue for woodworking. My grandfather used it for decades to make fine furniture and it has worked well for me also.
3. Make sure the wood is completely dried and will no crack. This is how you do this. Weigh the wood with a small scale. If you do not have one the lumber store in town that sells nails by the ounce might let you weigh it. Wait a week or two and weigh it again. If it is dropping in weight it is still losing water. This is a big problem with wood, especiall going from warm moist summer to winter. On future projects let the wood sit for 1 full year before making anything, just wax the cut ends before storage.
4. Once you have determined that the wood is all dry place it crack side up on a thick plank of a wood bench. If the crack goes all the way thru place some wax paper on the plank or bench. Fill the crack with glue and place another piece of wax paper over the top. place some clamping blocks between the clamp and the guitar to avoid damage to the guitar, making sure the wax paper is between the wood block and the guitar and clamp it down as tight as you can, without damaging the wood undernieth. Let it sit for 24 hours and then unclamp it.
A good dark finish will hide the crack well. You can get a good feel for what it will look like after you sand it and pass some wax over it.
I would not throw it away just yet!
Matt |
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Randy Reeves
From:
LaCrosse, Wisconsin, USA
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Posted 31 Jan 2007 8:38 am
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I am assuming this is your lap steel project. the wood blank being roughly 1 1/2 inches thick; more or less.
have you got the shape cut out? have your determined front or back? perhaps the crack when filled could be the back.
I have worked with 5 and 6 quarter wood stock; maple and mahogany. never had that happen. sorry to hear.
dont stop Ron. |
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Ron Victoria
From:
New Jersey, USA
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Posted 31 Jan 2007 7:02 pm
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I intended to finish the maple in a golden oak. Any repair will stand out. I was thinking of being creative and cut a V out and maybe add a piece of walnut as the bridge and fretboard will be same.
Ron |
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Randy Reeves
From:
LaCrosse, Wisconsin, USA
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Posted 31 Jan 2007 8:25 pm
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endgrain of our wood lap steels take stain differently than the surface grain. I like the effect. your V could work for you.
it's all problem solving from start to finish Ive learned. |
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Bill Hatcher
From:
Atlanta Ga. USA
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Posted 31 Jan 2007 8:51 pm
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You need to start over. A check in thick wood stock will not glue back together. It will most likely open back up from the same pressure that caused the original check.
Many builders run into this. You cannot see some checks until you put finish on the guitar. Don't worry over it and don't let it diminish your enthusiam for building. Learn from this and get another guitar going. |
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Gary Boyett
From:
Colorado/ Lives in Arizona
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Posted 1 Feb 2007 3:56 am
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Hang in there Ron. I liked your design. Nothing ever goes perfect the first time. Now you see why these can be so expensive. You could finish it just to be sure your design works. Check your tone, pickup location, bridge design etc. When you get another one just transfer the parts over.
Building steels is not all that it's "cracked" up to be... |
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Ron Victoria
From:
New Jersey, USA
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Posted 1 Feb 2007 10:45 am
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My very talented co-worker recommends milling a slot at the bottom end and putting in a rectangular piece to prevent the crack from spreading. I could add something decorative past the bridge to hide the crack since the fretboard and bridge will be walnut. I have put too much planning and effort in to give up.
Ron |
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Ron Brennan
From:
Orlando, Florida, USA; Formerly, Edison, NJ
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Posted 2 Feb 2007 6:05 am
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Ron,
Good on you and a very good decision on your part, my friend.
Post some pictures if you can on the interesting project.
You have a lot of support here. TX
Rgds,
Ron
_________________
JCFSGC member 2005 "Be of Good Cheer"
"55" Fender Stringmaster D8,
"83" Emmons LeGrande 77L SKH D10 8 & 5,
"67" All Original Telecaster & Original Owner
"86" Peavey Factory Modified NV 400,
"60"Fender Concert Amp 4-10"s, RV-3, Upgraded chip set GE-7 EQ, CH1 Chorus, DS-1, Hilton, BJS Bar. |
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Ron Victoria
From:
New Jersey, USA
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Posted 3 Feb 2007 1:16 pm
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| If I drill a small hole at the end of the crack, will this stop it from continuing? This way, I can consider my options. I am leaning towards cutting a piece out and putting in walnut. |
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Jon Moen
From:
Canada
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Posted 3 Feb 2007 1:55 pm pictures?
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| Can you post a picture of the offending area and the whole guitar? |
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Bill Creller
From:
Saginaw, Michigan, USA (deceased)
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Posted 3 Feb 2007 2:32 pm
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| I drill small holes for crack stoppers in aluminum all the time on airplanes, but the crack in wood grain goes farther than you can see, and I dout if it would work for you. The inlaid piece of wood sounds like the way to go, and the glue you use for it will help hold things together. |
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Ron Victoria
From:
New Jersey, USA
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Posted 5 Feb 2007 2:55 pm I decided on surgery
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| I am going to cut a section out and fill with walnut. I will start this week by drilling a 1" hole with a forsner bit and then cut the curves with band saw. It should nice and really must be done to remove the crack. |
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Bill Creller
From:
Saginaw, Michigan, USA (deceased)
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Posted 5 Feb 2007 3:12 pm
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| That sounds like a good way to go Ron. If you have a band saw you can do most anything you have to or want to. |
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