Sho Bud for sale

Chuck Bishop · Post by **Chuck Bishop** » 1 Jan 2007 9:26 pm

Well here she goes on the chopping block,1500 obo.Im a guitar player and came across this sho-bud thought Id give it a whirl,all I can say is I have a new found respect for you pedal players!I believe shes a 68 everything works,it all appears to be original except the tuners,beautiful instrument strong pickups![/img]

Chuck Bishop · Post by **Chuck Bishop** » 2 Jan 2007 7:40 am

forgot to mention this is the crossover model ,thanks!

Tommy White · Post by **Tommy White** » 3 Jan 2007 6:00 am

Very nice guitar Chuck.
I have a one exactly like it and I believe those to be the original tuning keys.

Al Marcus · Post by **Al Marcus** » 3 Jan 2007 9:20 am

I had one arund 1974 and played it 3 nights a week. I liked it and the crossover worked good for me. But it was heavy, but aren't a lot of them?...al.

:)

Chuck Bishop · Post by **Chuck Bishop** » 3 Jan 2007 8:44 pm

glad to hear the tuners are original!thanks for the info!no bites on this yet so ill prob post on ebay soon,I am lookin for the bose pas ,or possible guitar trade,love my guits!

Chuck Bishop · Post by **Chuck Bishop** » 3 Jan 2007 8:45 pm

wanted to add my phone #360-471-3391 if anyone has questions

Chuck Bishop · Post by **Chuck Bishop** » 4 Jan 2007 4:50 pm

I recieved this email today and wanted to know if this is accurate(if so I paid way too much for this steel!) any info on price would be helpful!

Chuck Bishop · Post by **Chuck Bishop** » 4 Jan 2007 4:51 pm

Dear Chuck,
The Baldwin Sho-Buds were known to be very deficient in their mechanics. The
crossover mechanisms never worked that well and they were hard to keep in tune.
They are worth about $350- $500. This one also has only one or two knee levers.
Standard today is four. They actually sounded pretty good. Thats their history
here on the Forum. It may be a tough sell for you at that price. The mechanics
today are alot better than they used to be. If you're not getting any bites this
may be the problem.

Michael Douchette · Post by **Michael Douchette** » 4 Jan 2007 5:29 pm

Chuck... I had one. It was a great sounding guitar. Duane Marrs went through it when I got it, it helped a lot. I kept the original changer and rods, etc. under it. The tuning system is theoretically brilliant, but in practical use, it leaves a lot to be desired. The tuning is done at each individual pedal. The brass collars you see have a little "tit" on them that goes into the hole in the cross shaft. You engage a pedal, that "locks" the "tit" into the hole, and you turn the end screw until that note is in tune. The problem is, the "lock" never really happens. If you turn the end screw without a pedal engaged, it screws up everything. Using the pedals will turn the brass collars, and that will mess up the tuning. In theory, it was a great idea, because you could put any number of changes on a string; just add a pedal along the way to do it. It just really didn't work very well. As the guitars were traded in to Sho-Bud for different reasons, they were rebuilt and sold as different models. I believe the first LDG's were rebuilt Baldwins, with the back neck removed. I could be wrong on that.

As to its value, that's subjective. It's a piece of Nashville history, to be sure. If it's what you want, it's worth it. They're not building any more of them.

Jim Bates · Post by **Jim Bates** » 4 Jan 2007 5:35 pm

This is exactly the kind of message I warned you about. The problem with all pedal steels listed in this forum is that they must set up properly by someone who knows how to do it.
My first experience with the Emmons push-pull was a total nightmare, but it is still a fine guitar - if it is set up properly.

Maybe I was just lucky to have a sheet of set up instructions from Sho-Bud included with my new crossover model when I bought it in '69. I added a left knee lever from a kit that Sho-Bud sold me, which worked fine.

Also, during the late 60's and early 70's there were several crossover models that I set-up for steel players around Houston.

Thanx,
Jim

Justin Griffith · Post by **Justin Griffith** » 4 Jan 2007 9:21 pm

Michael Douchette wrote: The tuning system is theoretically brilliant, but in practical use, it leaves a lot to be desired. The tuning is done at each individual pedal. The brass collars you see have a little "tit" on them that goes into the hole in the cross shaft. You engage a pedal, that "locks" the "tit" into the hole, and you turn the end screw until that note is in tune. The problem is, the "lock" never really happens. If you turn the end screw without a pedal engaged, it screws up everything. Using the pedals will turn the brass collars, and that will mess up the tuning.

I respectfully disagree.

The "rack and barrel" system was not the problem. It was the lever that changed the pedals from neck to neck.

The "Professional" Model employed the rack and barrel system and was very sucsessful. I feel the models using this system were the best sounding of all Sho Bud guitars. If set up properly they are no problem.
Go ahead and flame me now.
Best,
Justin

Michael Douchette · Post by **Michael Douchette** » 4 Jan 2007 9:33 pm

Justin, no problem. Is this the "rack and barrel," or is that something that looks similar but is different, with nylon tuners actually doing the job?

Educate me, because I don't know.

I can only speak from personal experience with a crossover... doesn't mean much, I know.

Ernest Cawby · Post by **Ernest Cawby** » 4 Jan 2007 9:59 pm

Have played one, if you leave the cross over alone and play it on E 9 it stays in tune fairly well and have a big sound.

ernie

Tommy White · Post by **Tommy White** » 4 Jan 2007 10:29 pm

Chuck, I feel your asking price is a very reasonable starting place and most likely worth it to the right player. In my opinion,the crossover guitar is definately an undeniable,lasting piece of pedal steel history. Of course, I've only been playing 40 years. I know I wouldn't let mine go for what your asking for yours.

Justin Griffith · Post by **Justin Griffith** » 4 Jan 2007 10:29 pm

Michael,
Yes the crossover had the rack and barrel tuners. There were no nylon tuners on the end. The Professional models and I think some early Pro II models had it as well. I will try to post a pic.

Ernie is right about the crossover models. If you leave the lever on one neck or the other they stayed in tune great. But when you flip it it all goes to hell. Great idea but I think it was ahead of its time. I think Williams made a sucessful crossover.

Thanks for not flaming me, I just have a soft spot for those great sounding guitars.
I have seen a few that have been "updated" with new style parts and they play and tune great but a lot of the magic in the sound goes out the window.
If the little "tits" on the barrels are bent right they tune fine.
Best,
Justin

Darryl Hattenhauer · Post by **Darryl Hattenhauer** » 4 Jan 2007 10:35 pm

Justin,

Which other Professional models used that rack and barrel system?

Justin Griffith · Post by **Justin Griffith** » 4 Jan 2007 10:44 pm

"The Professional" was the name of a model, It came after the crossover but before the Pro II. I think it was also used in some early pro II's Someone correct me on my history if it is wrong. I am starting to confuse myself

Justin
Here are a couple "The Professionals"

Michael Douchette · Post by **Michael Douchette** » 5 Jan 2007 3:47 am

Guys, I started another thread to continue this:

http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=100315

Let's get this out of poor Chuck's FS ad...

Justin Griffith · Post by **Justin Griffith** » 5 Jan 2007 6:51 am

Michael Douchette wrote:Guys, I started another thread to continue this:

http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=100315

Let's get this out of poor Chuck's FS ad...

Sorry Chuck, I too am embarrased

Jim Bates · Post by **Jim Bates** » 5 Jan 2007 3:14 pm

When I said the crossover had to be properly set up, that included fine adjustment and lubrication of the changeover mechanism.

The main problem was fine tuning a pedal travel for the E 9th and then having pedal slop in the C 6th position on the same pedal, or vice versa. I tried to 'split the difference' between them using different gauges of strings which helped.

I played many 'Pop' jobs with that guitar where I NEVER used the E neck or made a country crying steel sound at all - we would have been banned from those rooty tooty clubs, if I had.

Good discussion.

Thanx,
Jim

Chuck Bishop · Post by **Chuck Bishop** » 5 Jan 2007 9:11 pm

I dont mind the post!(keeps it on top without the bump)I figured it had to be worth more than the 3-500 range he was telling me(it was from a member here I believe trying to snipe me a little)thanks for the interest and the post!

Chuck Bishop · Post by **Chuck Bishop** » 6 Jan 2007 7:09 pm

price drop!I need to move this,I found the guit ive been lookin for!first 1300.00 + shipping got it,just give me a jingle pay through paypal,its ready to ship so I can arrange for pick up quickly,I also have an account through fedex so it would be quick and easy,thanks

Chuck Bishop · Post by **Chuck Bishop** » 12 Jan 2007 6:07 pm

shes on ebay now,thanks everyone!

Ernest Cawby · Post by **Ernest Cawby** » 12 Jan 2007 10:46 pm

Chuck I may help, I bought s new onr in 1972, the Professional, it stays in tune, never had a problem for 30 years I have played this guitar,the tuners worked fine not one ever skipped on mine all the time I have had it, stays in tune and sounds great.
I had Leon Rebuild mine and paid out $1.500.00 for the work I now have a new guitar with the shobud sound and all modern parts, still sounds like a Bud and plays like a dream,if I had the money to spare I would buy it in a heart beat and have 2.
Mine has 8 and 5 and is less than the price of the other new guitars sold today.

ernie

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