Capo for dobro? what about bars?

Terry Sneed · Post by **Terry Sneed** » 9 Dec 2006 2:11 pm

What is a decent capo for the dobro,that don't cost $40 or 50? Do I even need a capo
as I'm just starting out?

And as for the steel bar, I orderd a stevens steel cobolt bar with my dobro, but I've found that My 3/4" dunlop bullet nose bar is easier for me to hold and I don't get near as much string rattle with it.

Do bars really make that much difference?
Terry

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Mullen RP D10 /8x5 / Nashville 112 x 2 / American Tele and Fender
Hotrod Deville 2x12's
Thank God for music.

Matt Lange · Post by **Matt Lange** » 9 Dec 2006 2:27 pm

i like my beard capo, although it's the only one i've used.
As for the bar, conventional wisdom is just to use what works best for you. I was told by many people that the Shubb SG bar was great, but when i tried it it just didn't feel right and i went right back to my lap dawg. If the bullet bar feels more natural, go for it, although don't expect to do tons of quick pull-off/hammer-on stuff ala Jerry Douglas with a bullet bar.

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my music: www.myspace.com/mattlangemusic

Lincoln Goertzen · Post by **Lincoln Goertzen** » 9 Dec 2006 2:37 pm

Hi, Terry.

You will know by now that a question like yours will have just about a different answer for every person.

That is as it should be, and variety is always good.

I started out with a little glass medicine bottle as a slide, and it worked OK, but was a little light. Tone was pretty good, but sustain was not so good.

I moved from there to a Shubb-Pearse SP3, the Sally Van Meter model with a double cutaway and no semi-bullet. This worked well for a number of years, but I noticed a slight increase in handling noise as the chrome plating started to wear.

My favorite bar now is the Shubb GS. It is similar in shape to the Scheerhorn, with the top half machined out of wood. It is comfortable, (always warm, too,) and sounds good. The other advantage is that with the metal part being solid stainless steel, I can buff and polish it whenever I get the urge.

To directly answer your question, yes, bars do make a difference. When I play with someone else's bar, I feel a little bit at a loss, because I have to compensate for a change in weight, or upper contour, or bottom shape. Having said that, it's all what you get used to. Mike Auldridge is one of my favorite players ever, and he uses a Stevens bar. I have tried those, and couldn't make them respond the way I wanted to. There are other dobro players out there who use bullet nose bars, so use what you like.

Capos- When I started out, I had no capo, but as I gradually improved in my playing and my ear, I started to hear that some of what I was trying to play 'open' was actually played with a capo. It took a long time to figure out what I wanted, but I settled on the following characteristics: more mass than the Flux capo; easier to use than the Leno; no thumb screw like the Beard; more versatility than the Shubb. I went with Bradley because it did all these things, and I've never wanted to change. Mr. Bradley is in Indiana, I believe.

I hope that helps give you some ideas. Others will have different ideas, but these have worked for me.

Lincoln

Larry Robbins · Post by **Larry Robbins** » 9 Dec 2006 3:36 pm

Hi Terry, Just starting out you probably dont need a capo right off. FWIW, I like the Beard capo. I will say that I personally think that the different capos out there will sound different on different resos. I think that the mass of each capo is a good or bad thing depending on the individual inst. I think that some resos sound good with a capo with a lot of mass and some dont seem to need so much. I think that is why you see so many reso players recomending this one and that one. I think its one of those things that you just have to try a few and see witch one YOU like based on your paticular inst.As far as the Stephens bar is concerned...many a dobro player cut his teeth on one...many moved on to something else...I like these :

The Shub Pearse II.... I use the rounded end for general playing and the sharp end for tunes that have a lot of pull offs and such..whatever you choose you will probably go through a few before you find what works for you....easy isn't it?...

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Sho~Buds,Fender Steelking,Teles and Fender Twins, Tut Taylor resos, and Twang to the bone!

[This message was edited by Larry Robbins on 09 December 2006 at 03:39 PM.][This message was edited by Larry Robbins on 09 December 2006 at 03:40 PM.]

Terry Sneed · Post by **Terry Sneed** » 9 Dec 2006 4:33 pm

I really appreciate you guys advice. I guess for right now, I'll wait on getting a capo, but will probly get a Beard,to start off with since I have a Beard dobro. And I reckon I'll stay with my bullet nose bar for now since I get so much string rattle with the Stevens, and my hand starts hurting after a few minutes holding the Stevens. I guess I got use to a round bar after playing steel for 30 yrs.
BTW- is string rattle a part of dobro playing? I mean are you suppose to get a certain amount of string rattle, or do you work to eliminate all string rattle?

Larry, can't wait till I get the video.
A BIG thanks to ya.

Terry

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Mullen RP D10 /8x5 / Nashville 112 x 2 / American Tele and Fender
Hotrod Deville 2x12's
Thank God for music.

Steinar Gregertsen · Post by **Steinar Gregertsen** » 9 Dec 2006 4:39 pm

I go back and forth between bullet bars and my Scheerhorn or SP-2 bars all the time, can't really decide which type to use as my main bar...

Slants - I find forward slants, including splits and three-fret slants, to be equally easy/hard with both type of bars. Really fast reverse slants are almost impossible with a Scheerhorn/sculpted bar without bending my wrist though, something I refuse to do...

So that's 1-0 for the bullet bar.

Pull-offs - can be done with both type of bars, but a Scheerhorn (or any other sculpted 'dobro' bar) will sound much cleaner.

So that's 1-1 then.......

Since I'm really not into all that fast hammer-on/pull-off bluegrass playing I guess I tend to favor the bullet bar. And it looks much cooler......

Steinar

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"Play to express, not to impress"
www.gregertsen.com
Southern Moon Northern Lights

[This message was edited by Steinar Gregertsen on 09 December 2006 at 04:41 PM.]

Michael Breid · Post by **Michael Breid** » 9 Dec 2006 6:04 pm

I really like my Shubb GS dobro bar, and I forked out the $40 for the Scheerhorn dobro capo and haven't regretted it. It's the most hassle free dobro capo I've ever used. If you're just starting out, learn your instrument first, then fool around with a capo. The only problem is every year Scheerhorn products go, up, up, up, in price. Look at his dobros. $3K to $6K in the past few years. You can buy a Mullen D-10 for $6K or less. Scheerhorn makes great products, but in a few years, they will probably be out of sight pricewise for us poor country pickers.

D Schubert · Post by **D Schubert** » 9 Dec 2006 8:40 pm

I started off years ago with a Stevens bar. But the first time I "borrowed" a Scheerhorn bar from a friend, it seems like my playing improved instantly (intonation, hammers, pull-offs, slants were all easier). If you want to spend less $$$ try a Dunlop Lap Dawg.

Capo for Dobro? I have tried a bunch of them and don't care for any of them. All of them seem to be tone-suckers, and I don't use one at all. Apparently, you've played a lot of steel in your time -- and you're comfortable in many keys and positions already -- so maybe you won't feel the need for one.

String rattle? Should not have to live with that. A couple of things to check: (a) Dobro is more physical than PSG, are you pushing down hard enough with the bar? (b) Is your guitar set up right, so that all the strings are in the same plane? -- or do you have one that rides a bit lower than the others? [This message was edited by D Schubert on 09 December 2006 at 08:42 PM.]

Fred Kinbom · Post by **Fred Kinbom** » 10 Dec 2006 3:48 am

I've only played lap slide for a year myself, and I have gone from a Shubb SP-2 bar to a stainless steel E.G. Smith bar (similar to the Scheerhorn bar, but it costs $50 rather than $80, and many seem to prefer it - check this thread out) and more recently I also started using a Broz-o-Phonic bullet bar.

The E.G. Smith bar is very comfortable and easy to play with. Please see the thread above for more info and opinions (please note though, that Ivan Rosenberg, whom I bought my two E.G. Smith steels from no longer sells them - at least not last time I checked).

I've used the Broz-o-Phonic for less than a month but I really like it, and I think it produces a warmer, fuller tone than the E.G. Smith, so I guess it's my favourite bar.

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www.myspace.com/fredkinbom

www.youtube.com/oahusteel75

Steve Pierce · Post by **Steve Pierce** » 10 Dec 2006 7:55 am

While we're on the topic of capos . . .

Does anyone out there have a Tipton capo? Tipton doesn't have a website, so I have no idea where to get one (or even try one) and how much they go for.

Many thanks

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Steve Pierce

Howard Parker · Post by **Howard Parker** » 10 Dec 2006 10:09 am

To my knowledge Ron never made a capo.

He does not have a website.

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Howard Parker
poobah@resoguit.com
www.resoguit.com
ListOwner RESOGUIT-L
03' Carter D-10

Terry Sneed · Post by **Terry Sneed** » 10 Dec 2006 10:50 am

Ok thanks again guys for the great advice.

So, no string rattle? I guess I better stick with my 3/4" bullet nose then, because I have to push down a lot harder with the Stevens bar, and like I said, it makes my hand hurt having to press down so hard, and I think the grip of the bar has a lot to do with the pain in my hand to.
I noticed a lot brighter tone with the Stevens bar to. My bullet nose gives a lot warmer tone, and don't hurt my hand.

As far as checking my dobro for string rattle problems, it being a new dobro that
came from the beard factory and checked by Mr Beard, I'm thinkin it's probly more me than the dobro. I've just been playing this thing for 3 days now.

And I don't get as much string rattle when I use the bullet nose bar.
I was quite surprised by the tone of this Beard mahogany standard. Glad I took ya'll's advice and got the Goldtone instead of a Fender or Regal.

Terry

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Mullen RP D10 /8x5 / Nashville 112 x 2 / American Tele and Fender
Hotrod Deville 2x12's
Thank God for music.

[This message was edited by Terry Sneed on 10 December 2006 at 11:00 AM.]

Bill Blacklock · Post by **Bill Blacklock** » 10 Dec 2006 2:46 pm

I've owned a Beard capo for years and dislike it,Im always wacking my hand on that horrible nob on the top. On the good side it forced me to take the time to learn my scales without the aid of a capo(there's a lot of real fine notes living behind a capo).

Last week I purchased a Leno capo and I love it ( no nob on top). I still like to play open but the capo addes a nice flavor and I'll sometimes capo at the 5th.

For bars I find the Scheerhorn the best of the bunch for my style of playing.

Stephen Gambrell · Post by **Stephen Gambrell** » 10 Dec 2006 5:44 pm

I got one of the first Bradley capos made, and I still like it best. The Leno, and others, bite into the wound strings and crush the windings. NOT good for the strings!
Bars, I like the Tipton bar that Ron made me. It just feels good.
Terry, you should not be getting string rattle, period, regardless of what kind of bar you're using. That rattle could be caused by uneven bridge inserts, an uneven nut, or even a bum string. Are all 6 strings rattling, or just one?

Terry Sneed · Post by **Terry Sneed** » 10 Dec 2006 7:00 pm

Not sure if all 6 are rattling or not, but it's more than one for sure. But I don't get that kind of rattle when I use the heavier bullet nose bar. I guess I just ain't holding down on the Stevens bar hard enough. Not sure.

Terry

Steve Pierce · Post by **Steve Pierce** » 10 Dec 2006 8:53 pm

Stacy Phillips has a Tipton capo. He showed it to me at a workshop. He also mentions it on his website.

It doesn't sound like a very popular capo, but I'm interested in it just the same.

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Steve Pierce

Darryl Hattenhauer · Post by **Darryl Hattenhauer** » 15 Dec 2006 11:23 pm

http://folkofthewood.com/page2146.htm

Above is info on Beard capos and 3 clips of a guy playing with one.

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"Most people's favorite music is from the era before they got married." --Earnest Bovine

Terry Sneed · Post by **Terry Sneed** » 16 Dec 2006 12:32 pm

Well, after thinking about it, I settled on a Sheerhorn squareneck capo, and a Dunlop Lap-Dawg bar. The Lap-Dawg fits my hand just right, and I like the extra weight.
Anybody wanting a Stevens cobalt coated bar, I have one for sale here on the forum.

Terry

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Mullen RP D10 /8x5 / Nashville 112 x 2 / American Tele and Fender
Hotrod Deville 2x12's
Thank God for music.

Mike Fried · Post by **Mike Fried** » 16 Dec 2006 3:25 pm

Your need for a capo will be determined more by what kind of stuff you're playing than by your knowledge of the tuning and fretboard. If you're into playing bluegrass-type pulloffs and hammerons or other things requiring open strings, it doesn't matter how well you know the instrument, you're not gonna be able to play them in "off keys" without a capo. Don't let anyone tell you you're a "lesser" player for using one!

Lincoln Goertzen · Post by **Lincoln Goertzen** » 16 Dec 2006 10:03 pm

Mike, you nailed it with that last post!

Lincoln

Terry Sneed · Post by **Terry Sneed** » 17 Dec 2006 7:56 pm

Well, good think I went ahead and got a good capo, cause bluegrass is what I'll be playing mostly, I'd like to learn a few blues licks also.

Terry

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Mullen RP D10 /8x5 / Nashville 112 x 2 / American Tele and Fender
Hotrod Deville 2x12's
Thank God for music.