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Author Topic:  stage one of my homebuilt
Ron Victoria

 

From:
New Jersey, USA
Post  Posted 8 Dec 2006 2:29 pm    
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Here are some pictures of it cut. The body and neck are rough planed and sanded. I forgot I have a dremel tool still NIB. I think this will make the peghead finishing easier. I'm sure my co-worker has some bits for it. I chose the wild grain side for the top. Do you think I should narrow the neck in more on the front view?

Thanks Rick for uploading my pics!!!
http://steelguitarforum.com/Forum19/HTML/003104.html

Ron

[This message was edited by Ron Victoria on 08 December 2006 at 02:30 PM.]

[This message was edited by Ron Victoria on 08 December 2006 at 02:37 PM.]

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Randy Reeves


From:
LaCrosse, Wisconsin, USA
Post  Posted 8 Dec 2006 2:57 pm    
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yeah, pics!
nice wood Ron. the neck for me looks a little wide towards the body. thin and taper a bit more and you will have a more graceful look...IMO.
it could be the photo or glare but the headstock looks slightly off square to the body.
and if you want the guitar to be a bit more stable when leaning shave some off that rounded bottom. a few inches of flat will ease your mind in the future. believe me, I have an acentric bottom on a lap steel and it always falls over. grrr.
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Ron Victoria

 

From:
New Jersey, USA
Post  Posted 8 Dec 2006 4:25 pm    
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The line you are seeing is crooked where the bandsaw ended. This makes the head appear tilted. If you look where the masking tape ends, I have a perpendicular line.

I am leaning towards bringing the neck in more near the body, it's about 2 1/4" at the top. I always lay my lap down and never lean it. I guess that's a good habit I developed.

Ron

[This message was edited by Ron Victoria on 08 December 2006 at 04:28 PM.]

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Ron Brennan

 

From:
Orlando, Florida, USA; Formerly, Edison, NJ
Post  Posted 9 Dec 2006 7:14 am    
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Ron,

Really Nice work!!! The form you chose is really neat!!

I was wondering what that noise was 'cross town'...

What's your plan for the finish? That grain is beautiful!!

Ummm,think you should call it the "Victoria S6"....Keep us posted.......TX,

Rgds,

Ron



------------------
JCFSGC member 2005 "Be of Good Cheer"
"55" Stringmaster D8,
"67" Telecaster,
"60"Fender Concert Amp 4-10's


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Ron Victoria

 

From:
New Jersey, USA
Post  Posted 9 Dec 2006 7:15 am    
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I was thinking a golden oak stain with a poly or lacquer finish.
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Randy Reeves


From:
LaCrosse, Wisconsin, USA
Post  Posted 9 Dec 2006 10:11 am    
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thanks Ron.
I like your ideas and good habits
when I spray finished my mahogany lap steel I used a product called Deft. very nice nitro satin finish.
my first attempt was brushing a finish. spraying has better results.
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Ron Victoria

 

From:
New Jersey, USA
Post  Posted 9 Dec 2006 10:25 am    
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I will leave the spraying to an expert. My co-worker works in a body shop. If I do it, it will have runs, LOL.
Ron
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Bill Hatcher

 

From:
Atlanta Ga. USA
Post  Posted 9 Dec 2006 1:06 pm    
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Nice body shape. You are going to have flex at the angled back peghead along with the weakest point on the instrument. Also your nice shaped for the peghead is going to splay out the strings so you cannot have as straight a string pull from the nut to the post. You won't be able to have a nice shallow nut slot. You will have to slot deep to keep the string from pulling over from the angle from the nut to the post.

I am toying with the idea of not removing the thickness of the entire peg head. I am going to do a lap with the peg head angled to allow for straighter string pull and then rout out a "ledge" for the machine heads leaving the center part of the back of the headstock thick. Might could be designed to be cut on the jointer.

Even using hard maple I have seen how much flex you get on a lap that has a nice thick body that tapers down to a cut that allows the machines to be mounted like a guitar. Best set up is a lap with a metal keyhead like a pedal guitar. The key holders can also be made of wood like Vinbury does and other makers.

You have chosen a more vintage type of construction that has nice visuals that work within the design limitations. You trade ease of mounting the machines for headstock flex that reduces sustain. I think that the sustain is the ultimate goal.

Should be a very nice instrument.
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