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Topic: builders, string thru the body question |
Ron Victoria
From:
New Jersey, USA
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Posted 23 Nov 2006 6:09 pm |
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I plan on strings thru the body using a piece of 1/8" aluminum angle for the bridge. Could I have the strings go down next to the bridge or would it be better to move the holes out creating a string angle?
If I come up next to the bridge, a top ferrule wouldn't be needed. Obviously, moving the hole back would require one. Would the corner of the ferrule have a tendency to cut the string?
Ron [This message was edited by Ron Victoria on 23 November 2006 at 07:05 PM.] |
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Randy Reeves
From:
LaCrosse, Wisconsin, USA
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Posted 23 Nov 2006 6:48 pm
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I have done two string through body laps. I ordered string ferrules from StewMac. they worked great.
on the first lap I made my bridge and did have the srings come up a bit behind the bridge to insure a good string break angle.
if I remember I decided 1 1/4" because the two vintage laps I have had that measurement.
take a close look at Matthew's beautiful lap steel. that distance he has, if I interpret it correctly is similar to the two Epiphones I have.
are you using L shaped aluminum stock?
I used string ferrules on the back side of the lap and where the strings came out of the body as I didnt want them to bend over anything sharp. it worked and it looks nice.
so perhaps if you consider this solution it may help determine your distance.[This message was edited by Randy Reeves on 23 November 2006 at 07:01 PM.] [This message was edited by Randy Reeves on 23 November 2006 at 07:03 PM.] [This message was edited by Randy Reeves on 23 November 2006 at 07:12 PM.] |
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Roman Sonnleitner
From:
Vienna, Austria
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Posted 24 Nov 2006 12:32 pm
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Since usually you don't do a lot of string-bending with lap steels (yeah, I HAVE heard about the bending-behind-the-bar technique...), this is not going to be a big problem, since the string will not be dragged/rubbed across that sharp edge all the time.
Some vintage lap steels have rather sharp string angles behind the bridge; if you're still concerned, you might try and file the back edge of the aluminum angle round.[This message was edited by Roman Sonnleitner on 25 November 2006 at 09:24 AM.] |
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Ron Victoria
From:
New Jersey, USA
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Posted 24 Nov 2006 1:18 pm
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The bridge will be a piece of angle, like an L. The slots will be nice and smoothe. As far as string tension in that bend area, I guess it's the same along the entire string.
I was thinking a top ferrule wouldn't be needed as the string will be coming up straight unless I just decide on it for asthetics.
Ron |
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Ron Victoria
From:
New Jersey, USA
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Posted 28 Nov 2006 6:16 pm
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I was looking at a Champion on ebay and noticed it had strings thru the body with the string at a sharp angle. I'm learning there's more than one way to skin a cat.
Ron |
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Sonny Jenkins
From:
Texas Masonic Retirement Center,,,Arlington Tx
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Posted 29 Nov 2006 8:00 am
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| ,,,,but the cat doesn't like any of'em,,,LOL |
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Edward Meisse
From:
Santa Rosa, California, USA
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Posted 29 Nov 2006 8:23 am
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| I have owned a lap steel that used angle iron for the bridge (Chandler). There was a tendency to cut into the winding. I did have a string start to unravel from time to time. That was the only weakness I found in an otherwise terrific guitar. But I would recommend against angle irons for bridges. |
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Ron Victoria
From:
New Jersey, USA
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Posted 29 Nov 2006 12:04 pm
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How about the same set-up but use a piece of round stock? This should prevent string unwinding problems.
I also just saw this on ebay. The string couldgo down thru the body with a bridge like this.
http://img.clubphoto.com/jerboa/185267256/512/null/image.jpg
Ron[This message was edited by Ron Victoria on 29 November 2006 at 01:07 PM.] |
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Randy Reeves
From:
LaCrosse, Wisconsin, USA
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Posted 29 Nov 2006 12:53 pm
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I think GerogeBoards uses round stock. it fits into a same shaped well. kind of a nice idea.
I used square stock, stainless. it was 1/2 inch sq. I ground a nice angle to remove some of the stock so I would have about a 1/4 inch left. the shape of the grinding wheel made a nice curve and even 'grain' in the stainless.
it was simple making a wood jig to hold the stock while grinding and cooling and grinding.
I my mind the angled stock would make a nice ball end string retainer. |
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Gary Stevenson
From:
Northern New York,USA
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Posted 29 Nov 2006 3:27 pm
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| I have used a 5/8th round SS rod for a bridge with strings thru the body. I seemed to work well and didn't hurt the sustain as far as I could tell. |
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Andy Hinton
From:
Louisiana, USA * R.I.P.
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Posted 29 Nov 2006 4:27 pm
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Ron: I noticed in a ststement above, you mentioned slots. If you mean slots for the strings, don't put any on the bridge. They have a tendency to cause buzz on that end & can run you nuts. Not necessary anyway if your holes are spaced correctlly. Just notch the nut. Good luck with your project.
Andy H, |
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