Amp losing power ..
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Amp losing power ..
I have a fender "The Twin" amp .. it seems to be losing power as the night wears on .. any of you tube amp guru's have any suggestions?
thanks
Steve
thanks
Steve
- Jack Stoner
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Are you sure it's the amp?? If you have any effects between the guitar and the amp, one of them may be causing it. If you do have effects, try to isolate what is causing the power loss - the effects or the amp.
If it's the amp, there are several general things to look at. Tubes are the main cause, whether it's the 6L6 output tubes or one of the 12AX7 preamps or the driver (either a 12AT7 or 12AU7 - I don't remember). If you have one with a rectifier tube (5U4) it could be the culprit too.
One other thing to consider is the AC line voltage. Many clubs really overload the AC line and a voltage drop could cause some power loss too.
There's really too many possibilites to do a "remote" troubleshoot.
If it's the amp, there are several general things to look at. Tubes are the main cause, whether it's the 6L6 output tubes or one of the 12AX7 preamps or the driver (either a 12AT7 or 12AU7 - I don't remember). If you have one with a rectifier tube (5U4) it could be the culprit too.
One other thing to consider is the AC line voltage. Many clubs really overload the AC line and a voltage drop could cause some power loss too.
There's really too many possibilites to do a "remote" troubleshoot.
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- Bobby Lee
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I'm serious, Steve. The way I've found to get consistant performance from a tube amp is to turn it off between sets. Not just "Standby" - all the way off. Let it cool down.
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Sierra Session S-12 E9th, Speedy West D-10, Sierra S-8 Lap
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Steve, it sounds to me like it could be new output tube (6L6) time. How old are they? If you change them be SURE you change the 12AT7 tube next to them. that's the phase inverter tube, and the only tube in the amp that works as hard as the 6L6s. Also have a tech set the bias if you change output tubes.
<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Jerry Hedge on 17 January 2000 at 10:49 PM.]</p></FONT>
<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Jerry Hedge on 17 January 2000 at 10:49 PM.]</p></FONT>
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Best thing to do is, after the amp is good &
warm (with the loss of volume) have your tech
spray around with an aerosol "coolant" one
section at a time. That will quickly "chill
out" the culprit causing the power loss &
help to identify it quicker if it's a resistor or capacitor. The volume should jump back to normal when he hits it. But obviously this is only if tube substitutions don't do the trick right off the bat.
warm (with the loss of volume) have your tech
spray around with an aerosol "coolant" one
section at a time. That will quickly "chill
out" the culprit causing the power loss &
help to identify it quicker if it's a resistor or capacitor. The volume should jump back to normal when he hits it. But obviously this is only if tube substitutions don't do the trick right off the bat.
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"The Twin" is a newer tube amp; or the 80's "red knob version". Both are tube and both are 100 watters; most any amp over 45-50 watts isn't going to have a tube recto and that's likely not the problem.
I'd guess caps....tubes never hurt either way. Rod
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Rod's Place www.geocities.com/vibrasonic9/index.html
I'd guess caps....tubes never hurt either way. Rod
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Rod's Place www.geocities.com/vibrasonic9/index.html
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Lemme see if I can do this:
The rest of the info is here: http://www.ampwares.com/ffg/index.html
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Rod's Place www.geocities.com/vibrasonic9/index.html
<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Rodney Shuffler on 19 January 2000 at 10:32 AM.]</p></FONT>
The rest of the info is here: http://www.ampwares.com/ffg/index.html
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Rod's Place www.geocities.com/vibrasonic9/index.html
<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Rodney Shuffler on 19 January 2000 at 10:32 AM.]</p></FONT>