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Topic: Improving Johnson Tricones? |
Mike Fried
From:
Nashville, TN, USA
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Posted 4 Dec 2003 8:37 pm |
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| I just received a new Johnson Tricone, which is supposedly a faithful repro of the "30s National Syle 1. It does seem to be pretty well-made (in Shanghai, China actually) but it very lacking in sustain when played up past the 8th fret or so. My understanding is that tricones are noted for their sustain, so I'm wondering what's up with mine. Does anyone have any experience with this instrument (or tricones in general), and have any suggestions for improving it? Would a Quarterman cone set make a big difference? |
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Andrew Waegel
From:
Berkeley CA USA
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Posted 4 Dec 2003 11:13 pm
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Hello,
I have had a Johnson Squareneck for a few months now. I was happy with the tone when I got it but felt it wasn't all it could be so I replaced the cones with a set from Resophonic Outfitters (I got the National cones, they sell Quartermans too). The old cones feel and sound like pie plates compared to the new Nationals. Plus I cleaned up the area where the cone rests on the inner body because it wa pretty rough.
I also replaced the soft pine bridge insert with a maple one from them (get an unslotted one and do it yourself since the string spacing is different from a single cone for some reason). I had to sand the heck out of it to get it in.
I'm very happy with the tone now! It sings under my inexpert but enthusiastic hands. Wish I had a 7 string... |
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Mike D
From:
Phx, Az
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Posted 5 Dec 2003 6:25 am
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Like Andrew says, go with the National cones, I know the Q-Mans are cheaper but in this case the Nationals are a much better choice.
A new bone nut, good quality saddle and good set-up will help too. |
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Erv Niehaus
From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
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Posted 5 Dec 2003 7:24 am
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I have a Regal Tricone that I want to replace the nut on. I want to put a higher nut on it to play lap style. What is the proper way to remove the old nut? Can it just be "popped" out, or what? I sure don't way to do any damage.
Erv |
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Mike D
From:
Phx, Az
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Posted 5 Dec 2003 12:05 pm
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Erv if you don't want to do the nut extender thing just unstring it and get a small block of wood. Lay the block on the frets snug against the nut and give it a small (small!) tap with a hammer. This should pop it loose.
But before doing this check and see if it doesn't just fall out on it own once the strings are off. |
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Erv Niehaus
From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
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Posted 7 Dec 2003 7:16 am
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Mike,
Thanks for the advise. I was planning on doing something like that but wasn't sure if it was proper or not. I'll give it a try. I am also wondering about the bridge. Does the part that the strings pass over just lay in there? I want to put in an ivory bridge.
Erv[This message was edited by Erv Niehaus on 07 December 2003 at 07:17 AM.] |
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Gregg McKenna
From:
South Windsor, Connecticut, USA
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Posted 7 Dec 2003 7:53 pm
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Take a utility knife and score the joint between the end of the fretboard and the nut before rapping the nut with the block of wood. If it is heavily glued, you could damage the end of the fretboard if you try to dislodge the nut without first scoring the joint with the knife.
Also lightly score the bottom joint (under nut and in back of nut so you don't chip the lacquer. |
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Mike D
From:
Phx, Az
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Posted 7 Dec 2003 9:05 pm
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Good points Gregg, I don't do all that much repair work and forget that sometimes the glue and lacquer are not always applied sparingly. 
Irv, the maple saddle is a snug fit (I press them in with a vice) I wouldn't recommend ivory, though I haven't tried it. I have used ebony and found it to be a bit harsh, I would guess that ivory would be more so. |
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Erv Niehaus
From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
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Posted 8 Dec 2003 7:48 am
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Thanks soooo much for the advise. I am also going to be putting a Highlander pickup in my Regal tricone. They make one that is specifically designed for a tricone. I assume that the Regal is close enough to a National that it will work. I guess time will tell.
Erv |
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