Removing Changes on GFI Ultra?

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Jim Fogarty
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Removing Changes on GFI Ultra?

Post by Jim Fogarty »

Hey kids,

Just picked up a GFI Ultra S-10 3x4. Great steel. It has basically the standard changes, except RKR, which is set up to a kind of E6 chord. H-->L

F#
D# --> D/C#
G#
E
B --> C#
G# ---> B
F# -->G#
E
D -> C#
B

Those raises on 5, 6 and 7 make the lever basically impossible to push. I thought about making a "lock" with bungee or something, but realized quickly that I really don't need or want those changes.

So, if I take them off, how difficult will it be to have strings 2 and 9 still working properly? Should it be obvious what I need to do?

Thanks!
Bobby D. Jones
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Post by Bobby D. Jones »

All you would need to do to remove the 5-6-7 pulls. Turn the guitar over. First make a drawing or take pictures of the position on the bell crank holes and the changer bar holes. So if you want to replace them.

Loosen the set screw in the brass ferule in the bell crank, On the 5-6-7 pulls. Pull the tuning nut and pull rod out through the end of the guitar. Then, Remove the the bell cranks, By removing the screw holding them to the cross shaft. May take a little pry to loosen the bell crank to remove them.

Put the Rods, Tuning nuts, Brass ferules and Bell cranks in a container and store them in a safe place. Always good to have a stash of spare parts.

Check the tuning on 2nd and 9th string, To make sure they tune proper, Against the stop on the knee lever.

I own a GFI S12 keyed and a S12 keyless, GFI's are easy to work on. I had to completely redo the keyless, Changed it from a EXT E9th tuning, To Jeff Newman Universal.

If you need discuss project, Feel free to send me a private message with phone number. Good Luck Happy Steelin.
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Jon Light
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Re: Removing Changes on GFI Ultra?

Post by Jon Light »

Jim Fogarty wrote: So, if I take them off, how difficult will it be to have strings 2 and 9 still working properly? Should it be obvious what I need to do?
There's just no way that that feeler stop on 2, via string 9, is effective with all of those other stresses going on. So once you remove the other three strings from the pull you can assess how it feels and if it's tuned right.
I did a recent job (not GFI) that entailed an overloaded pedal and there was a significant difference in the tuning of the 'basic' strings being pulled (let's pretend they were 2 & 9) when the extra pulls were loaded or were backed off at the nylon tuners.

So what I'm saying is that you may well need to work on 2 & 9 to get them and the string 2 half-stop working right.
But 100% do it -- unnecessary, unwanted changes are just a burden on the setup.

That string 2 & 9 relationship can take some mental gymnastics to wrap your head around but the logic of the way it works is a thing of beauty.
You'll get good assistance if you need some guidance.
Chris Scruggs
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Location: Nashville, Tennessee, USA

Post by Chris Scruggs »

What you basically have there is an approximation of the Don Helms tuning. If I were you, I’d leave the raise on 6 and 7 and use your A pedal to fill out the rest. This will give you

F#
D#
G#
E
C#
B
G#
E
D
C#

Strings 3-9 will give you a nice E13 tuning. Very usable for the Hank Williams sound, should you ever need it.
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Jim Fogarty
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Post by Jim Fogarty »

Thanks, all. The operation went well and smoothly. The patient (AND doctor!!) are fine. GFI's are such a breeze to work on.

Chris, I considered leaving it, but couldn't come up with a solution for "locking" RKR so I could play non-pedal style. I tried leaving 6 and 7 on, and it was still too stiff to use normally. I'll probably stick to lowering my E's for a B6.

- Jim
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