Advice for First PSG

Instruments, mechanical issues, copedents, techniques, etc.

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Andrew Lodge
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Advice for First PSG

Post by Andrew Lodge »

Beginner here looking to buy my first pedal steel… My first foray was the lap steel with palm benders thing which delivered some immediate gratification, but also immediately apparent limitations.

So my question is what are the minimum number of pedals and levers necessary to achieve the classic licks/chords/moves heard on 60s-70s recordings? I’d like to spend under 2k, but don’t want to be saddled with a guitar that I will quickly outgrow.

The best option in my budget seems to be a GFI S-10 3x4, but I am ignorant of any limitations beyond the pedal/lever count on the student models.

Any guidance would be greatly appreciated.
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Stew Crookes
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Post by Stew Crookes »

3&4 is a great place to start as it will cover basically any learning material you’re going to find and it could be all you ever need (I only added a 5th lever after 20 years and could easily live without it)

My advice would be to try and find a well maintained used pro steel from a reputable seller - I started on a new student model and within a year sold it for half what I paid. I then bought a great condition used EMCI that became my main guitar for 2 decades and I could sell it today for more than I paid for it. With a GOOD used steel, if you decide in a year or two you don’t want to keep playing or realize you just want a different flavor of pro steel you’ll be able sell it for roughly what you paid. But you need to find a knowledgeable and trustworthy seller as a bad used steel can be an expensive nightmare.

I can’t speak to the GFI student model (GFI makes great guitars I’ve just not seen that one) but one of the usual limitations of student models is not being able to change the copedent from the factory setup. This may not be a concern for you when starting out but is something to keep in mind…
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Richard Rice
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Post by Richard Rice »

I can't speak to your situation, but mine was financially bleak when I was trying to start. I bought three "used"steels in a row that were horrendous- couldn't be played or fixed 100%. Total waste of money, and countless hours of mechanical work instead of learning how to play. Don't fall into that trap- a sane man would have just given up... 🙄

I eventually bought a Sierra Artist, 3x4 S-10, which was well built and solid- and it cost more than I could afford (but actually worked very well)- and gave me an opportunity to actually play, start learning. Sadly, it wasn't the sound I wanted, and I was interested in a doubleneck, so it got sold off to fund my current Marlen D-10.

Upshot being if you spend a little more, you will save a ton of money and avoid a lot of aggravation. Took me years to finally get started..

I still play and love the D-10, but bought a Mullen Discovery S-10, 3x4, a couple years ago- and it has been my daily driver since it got here. It was a few hundred over your $2k mark, but it was factory fresh and has been absolutely wonderful, I'd play it anywhere. This is the best I can offer- don't just jump into something because it's cheap- those are pitfalls you want to avoid, even if you have to save up a while longer
'84 Marlen Custom D-10, 8X4
Oahu Tonemaster 6 string lap steel
Rice Custom 6 string lap steel
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Rice Custom 8 string reso (under construction)
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Bill McCloskey
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Post by Bill McCloskey »

Absolute minimum would be 2 pedals and 2 levers. AB pedals are essential. Levers to lower and raise the E’s is essential. Everything else is really nice to have. But a 3x4 would serve you for many years.
Check out my latest video: My Biggest Fears Learning Steel at 68: https://youtu.be/F601J515oGc
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Scott Denniston
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Post by Scott Denniston »

I was lucky and happened into a nice single neck Sho-Bud in about '79 that I'd still enjoy playing today if I had it. I've watched a few people start out on a cheapie only to give it up. Couldn't get that sound they were after or it was just too hard to keep in tune etc.. It's my opinion that it's probably best to start out on a single neck. A double could be a little overwhelming at first. Somebody will make you a good deal on a quality steel. It won't be cheap but you're more likely to stick with it than something you have to fight with. I'd buy off the forum classifieds here. Maybe find something you can drive to and won't have to risk shipping. I'd repeat about everything Richard and Stew have said above.
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Ellen Angelico
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Post by Ellen Angelico »

I own both a GFI Student model and a GFI Expo. I use the student model at home for noodling around and practicing and I use the Expo on gigs.

As far as student guitars go, the GFI is one of the least bad. That said, there's a clear difference when I play the Expo - tuning stability, physical stability, tone, etc. There's no contest. When I sit down at the Expo I sound like a steel player and when I sit down at the student model I sound like, well, a student.

For me it's not a big deal because I'm not a beginner anymore. When I'm playing the student model, I can distinguish between the limitations of the instrument versus the limitations of my playing. But I started on a Carter Starter that was pretty rough, and I played for two whole years thinking I was just bad and steel's hard. When I got the Expo, my playing immediately improved.

If there's any way you can swing for a non-student model, you should. Preferably 3 pedals and 4 knee levers, but you'll get by with 3x2 if that's what you can afford. Feel free to message me if you have any specific questions about the GFI student model. Best of luck! Playing steel has been the most rewarding musical experience of my life aside from when I first started guitar, and I hope it's like that for you too.
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Dave Hopping
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Post by Dave Hopping »

Another 3X4 guy here.There are master-level players who can use all those exotic KL's to marvelous effect but the basics'll do ya just fine. I'd add that it's more sensible to get the very best that you can afford, even if there's a little financial pain involved; if it takes you have a friend for life, and if it doesn't you can recoup more of your investment.

Since "try-before-you-buy" is usually a matter of some difficulty relative to PSG, players who want to take the plunge need to think about what they like musically before choosing between S-10, S-12(Uni or Extended E9) or D-10.

And ask questions here! ;-)
Justin Shaw
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Post by Justin Shaw »

I agree with Stew. Initially I had a Carter Starter and within 2 weeks I was looking to sell it and upgrade to a pro steel, which I did. I would only buy a student model if you're not sure if you want to play pedal steel or if money is a big issue. Basically you're trying the instrument out if you buy a student model, and later you will have no reason to keep it. Student models can't be modified and are at best just OK on playability and tone, generally.

Most instruments sold on the forum will be of good quality. I'd look at a single 10 e9 with 3 pedals and 4 levers like others have said. Here's an example of Johnie selling an MSA 4x4 https://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=395202. You could play that guitar the rest of your life (I have no affiliation here I'm in Canada haha).

If you get a non-student model that will always be a good guitar, and the E9 3x4 setup is the basis of much of the steel repertoire and teaching materials. You can branch out to C6 or universal later if you really like it, but your pro-grade E9 3x4 will always be worthwhile.

Edit: I should also say that while regular guitars are different, I find that I only really need a few to get everything I want, and really I could do with just one. With pedal steel I've found that I want at least 3 because of all the different tunings and copedents, with their inherent advantages and disadvantages: at least one each of C6, E9, and Universal. Maybe you'll find you're good with just the E9, but that's all the more reason to have one that will last. If you end up with several like me you will have no need at all for the student model.
Jim Kennedy
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Post by Jim Kennedy »

A Justice S10 is one the best bang for the buck new pedal steels available. It is a basic pro model, not a student model. A 3 pedal 4 knee lever will cost $1450 plus shipping and includes a case. For what most 3 and 4 used steels are selling for, this a great deal.
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Jerry Horch
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Steels

Post by Jerry Horch »

A lot of the MSA’s and Carter’s are solid and play and sound nice, come up often and reasonably priced.. get a 3&4 single neck, or 8&4 double…
Franklin D10 /Walker Sterio Steel JBL's /DigiTech Quad4/ Korg Toneworks/ Dobro DM 1000 / Santa Cruz Guitar VA
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Rick Grieco
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Post by Rick Grieco »

You can't go wrong with a Justice S10 3x4. For the money, it's an exceptionally well-built steel. It plays smoothly, is absolutely gorgeous and sounds awesome! I just got mine about a week ago and I can honestly say not only did it meet all of my expectations, but exceeded them by a long shot. Ron is awesome to deal with, and it's a great way to get a pro steel without breaking the bank!
Justice S10 3x4 Blue Ripple
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Brett Day
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Post by Brett Day »

Jackson also builds great steels! If you're a fan of Sho-Bud, Shot Jackson's two sons, David and Harry build wonderful steels inspired by the Sho-Bud steels of the 1960s. I play a Jackson Blackjack Custom that is 3X4, and it's a wonderful steel!
Jason King
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Post by Jason King »

I don't think anyone would ever regret having a 3x4. The basic Emmons set up gets you were you need to go for a lot of music and will always have better resale when/if that day comes.

Can't go wrong with a Stage one or Encore. They sound great, stay in tune and are light weight. I think the website says orders will be excepted in Feb 2024. If you need one sooner I would think the Justice would be a great option. Good luck in your search.
Andrew Lodge
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Post by Andrew Lodge »

Thanks for the responses, everyone. I’ve placed an order for a Justice.
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Per Berner
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Post by Per Berner »

I would say make sure the psg you choose allows for adding a vertical knee lever later on, if you go down the 3x4 route.
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