Hey there, I'm in the market for a Sho-Bud, and one is for sale on the forum:
https://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtop ... 4fe2974af2
After researching it sure seems like there are lots of factors when buying a Sho-Bud. From what I can tell this is a "good" year, so not a pot metal nightmare, and it looks like it's in good shape. Any opinions on this?
Also I'm aware of and appreciate that tuning stability on these may be in an issue. I basically want it for the tone. I have other guitars for playing out.
If it's bad form to ask this of an instrument for sale on the same forum then I'll take this down, but I think I'm OK.
The Sho-Bud Wilderness
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Justin, if the changer is only 2 raises, 2 lowers, then you need to think through your copedent to ensure that changer can handle your setup. I sold my 2R/2L S12 Sho-Bud for that reason. Great guitar and tone, but I need a 3+3 changer for my fairly complex E9 copedent.
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Last edited by John McClung on 30 Oct 2023 9:33 pm, edited 1 time in total.
E9 INSTRUCTION
If you want to have an ongoing discussion, please email me, don't use the Forum messaging which I detest! steelguitarlessons@earthlink.net
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john and mike are spot on. this a good, stable mechanism that is easy to work on.
i had an ldg with the same mechanics.
the trouble spots for me are the changer finger tops.they are potted metal coated with a chrome finish. when the chrome wears away, the finger will sound terrible. you can swap out less used fingers for more well used ones, or replace the tops with new aluminum ones. both are labour intensive.
if you're looking for the ultimate in sho bud playability and tone, most agree that the 73-74 models with round fronts, wide pedals and barrels behind the two hole pullers are what you might want to hold out for. these have solid aluminum fingers (these are distinguished by having a post to hook the string onto, rather than a slot that holds the string).
good luck navigating the sho bud universe.
i had an ldg with the same mechanics.
the trouble spots for me are the changer finger tops.they are potted metal coated with a chrome finish. when the chrome wears away, the finger will sound terrible. you can swap out less used fingers for more well used ones, or replace the tops with new aluminum ones. both are labour intensive.
if you're looking for the ultimate in sho bud playability and tone, most agree that the 73-74 models with round fronts, wide pedals and barrels behind the two hole pullers are what you might want to hold out for. these have solid aluminum fingers (these are distinguished by having a post to hook the string onto, rather than a slot that holds the string).
good luck navigating the sho bud universe.
- Eric Philippsen
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I’m going to give an opinion here that runs against the prevailing one. That is, I think Buds with pot metal mechanisms are not nightmares or somehow next to the worst you can get.
For the sake of brevity I won’t list my experience with them other than to say it’s a lot. I will say that I’d buy yet another. If a knee lever or bellcrank broke (as I’ve had happen once) I’d cuss at it, replace it with an aluminum one and go on using it without much afterthought.
Although some come close, I’d almost go so far as to say there is no perfect steel or perfect steel mechanism. I mean, does anybody want to start a thread on that about pushpulls? But I’d still play those, too.
For the sake of brevity I won’t list my experience with them other than to say it’s a lot. I will say that I’d buy yet another. If a knee lever or bellcrank broke (as I’ve had happen once) I’d cuss at it, replace it with an aluminum one and go on using it without much afterthought.
Although some come close, I’d almost go so far as to say there is no perfect steel or perfect steel mechanism. I mean, does anybody want to start a thread on that about pushpulls? But I’d still play those, too.