Having trouble tuning

Noah Fickel · Post by **Noah Fickel** » 4 Sep 2023 1:47 am

Hello, I recently got a Mullen discovery and I'm having an issue. For the c pedal and RKR I want them to both raise strings by a whole-step, however when I adjust the hex bolts on the side of the guitar, no matter how many turns I do, the most the strings will raise is a half-step. Am I missing something?

Richard Sinkler · Post by **Richard Sinkler** » 4 Sep 2023 4:33 am

If you are turning the nylon tuners as much as you are alluding to, you're probably overtuned. Read and understand this post:

https://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=326460

Also, I assume you are talking about a full tone raise on string 4 instead of raising just a half step to F. The E to F# is a cool change, but in no way as cool or useful as E to F (that's why it is a standard knee lever). I used a lever for years to raise 4 to F#, but kept the E to F lever. I put it on because I couldn't switch from A&B to B&C and back to A&B quick enough. I called it my 'Lazy Man Change'. I used it until I practiced the switching from A&B to B&C quickly and smoothly. Once I mastered that, I removed the E to F# lever change.

I even tried doing a half stop on 4 to reach F and F#. The guitar used the 8th string raise to F on that lever for the feel stop. It just wasn't positive enough to consistently hit the F note in tune. But with a separate physical half stop mechanism like Mullen sells, it would be possible, although I wouldn't want that bump when wanting to use the full raise smoothly.

If you want to get that sound without the lever raising 4 to F#, to simulate going quickly from A&B to B&C, just pick strings 4&5 with A&B pressed, only use strings 4&5, slide up 2 frets while releasing the A pedal giving you the same C# and F# you would get with the full tone raise on string 4 with either the C pedal or your proposed lever change. I learned that move from John Hughey. The trick to that move is timing th A pedal release and reactivation to make it sound like the 5th string isn't moving. Even if it isn't perfect timing, the movement gives kind of a sexy emotional feel.

There are some other uses for the full tone raise to 4 on a lever, but not at the expense of losing the E to F change.

To get that lever to raise the full step. You will probably have to increase the lever travel, or change the position of the pull rod in the bellcrank and/or changer finger to change the leverage of the pull.

Noah Fickel · Post by **Noah Fickel** » 4 Sep 2023 10:14 am

Thanks so much. I was able to figure out the C pedal problem. The other problem I'm having is the RKL lever. I want it so that the 6th string is brought down from a G# to an F# and the first string is brought up from an F# to a G#. The tuning nut for the 6th string is almost all the way unscrewed, while the nut for the 1st string is screwed all the way in. I read the article about overtuning and adjusted the amount that the lever moves with the lever stop, but if I adjust any more, I would have to loosen the 6th string nut even more and it's already all the way unscrewed.

Craig A Davidson · Post by **Craig A Davidson** » 4 Sep 2023 10:38 am

If you are loosening the nut to lower you are turning it the wrong way. That is if you have an all pull guitar. Turning the nut in will lower the note.

Noah Fickel · Post by **Noah Fickel** » 4 Sep 2023 11:22 am

When I tighten the nut on the 6th string the pedal has more effect, which is making the string go lower than my desired pitch. When I tighten the nut on the 1st string the pedal has more effect which is making the pitch go up, but only by a half step. But I need that string to go up by a whole step. Hopefully I did a better job of explaining that. My apologies. I have the 6th string lowering to a good spot, but the 1st string I can't get to raise high enough.

Bill Ferguson · Post by **Bill Ferguson** » 4 Sep 2023 12:33 pm

Noah,
On the 1st string, full tone raise. If you have the tuning nut turned clockwise where it almost hits the changer and it is still not up to pitch, then you must get more travel. Be sure the pull rod (with the steel upside down) is in the hole closest to you (top) on the bellcrank and in the bottom (closest to top of guitar) hole or the middle hole. This should increase your travel without having to move the knee lever stop.

For the 6th string lower.
First what kind of guitar? Does it have allen screws just below where the ball end of the string attaches.
If so, you have to tune the full tone lower there and the 1/2 tone lower with the pull rod.
If it does not have the allen screws, the once again turn the tuning nut clockwise until it almost touches the changer and do the same as before where it attaches to the bellcrank.

If the nylon tuner is touching the changer, nothing will work right.

Tell us the brand of steel and also send a picture of the end where the nylon tuners are, plus a picture of the bellcranks. This way I can be sure of what I am telling you.

Bobby D. Jones · Post by **Bobby D. Jones** » 4 Sep 2023 5:37 pm

Has the guitar been properly tuned before, And now you are making changes?

Some pictures of the guitar would help. Underneath the guitar and the tuning window end of the guitar.

If the guitar has split tuning. The allen screws Mr. Ferguson referred to above the tuning window. It is a complete different breed of guitar to set up, The lowering of a string on. The allen screw is a lowering stop, Used in split tuning setup.

Good Luck in this project and Happy Steelin.