I'm currently re-rodding a Push Pull that has the 'typical' 6 string lower (G# to F#) and am running into an issue of the B pedal not having enough slack to allow the changer finger to drop all the way to the lower screw (changer was tuned prior to rodding per Clem Schmitz guide). When the raise rod is not hooked up, the lower works just fine, but install and time the B pedal raise, the lower gets stopped on the raise.
Any tips, set up steps to follow, or things I'm missing? (I've tried a few combos of spring lengths on the B pedal and haven't found a set up that works.) I'm wondering if the entire 'throw' of the B pedal (3rd string and 6th string) needs to lengthen? Any ideas are greatly appreciated!
String 6 Push Pull
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- Austin Starkey
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- richard burton
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- Austin Starkey
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The difference in pull length between plain & wound 6 is pretty significant. I have a similar issue as you describe but it's on string 8 which I lower a full step which conflicts with the F lever, slack-wise. If I could change to a plain string I would do it in a flash. I would definitely go with the plain 6 in your situation.
My push pull has very little cabinet drop -- the reason I use a wound 6th on my other guitars. On the p/p, a plain 6 works just fine.
My push pull has very little cabinet drop -- the reason I use a wound 6th on my other guitars. On the p/p, a plain 6 works just fine.
- Tony Glassman
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P/P 6th string lower
I agree with John. I use a .022p string.
……. If that doesn’t work you’re going to need to allow some more slack on your 6th string G#—> A pull rod.
Loosen the collar on the 6th string pull rod and slide it towards the key head temporarily. Then, engage the knee lever that moves the G# —>F #.
Check that with the tuner.
Keeping that knee lover engaged move the collar on your 6th string G# pull rod just up against the bell crank.
It’s likely that now you’ll have to increase the travel length of pedal 2 to bring your 6th string raise completely up to A. To do that, you’ll need to back off the pedal stop hex screw (where your pedal rod attaches) to the exact point (plus a smidge) so your 6th string raise reaches A.
Once this is done you’ll notice that your third string raise from G# to A is bottoming out before the 6th string G# to A fully engages. To remedy that you’ll need to move the 3rd string pullcollar back slightly such that the 3rd & 6th string G#—>A raises bottom out at exactly the same time.
As a result, the 2nd pedal travel length is now slightly longer and that there will be a bit more slack before the raises engage. Don’t worry that’s just the nature of push-pull guitars . Lowering changes always require a bit more slack to be introduced into the system.
……. If that doesn’t work you’re going to need to allow some more slack on your 6th string G#—> A pull rod.
Loosen the collar on the 6th string pull rod and slide it towards the key head temporarily. Then, engage the knee lever that moves the G# —>F #.
Check that with the tuner.
Keeping that knee lover engaged move the collar on your 6th string G# pull rod just up against the bell crank.
It’s likely that now you’ll have to increase the travel length of pedal 2 to bring your 6th string raise completely up to A. To do that, you’ll need to back off the pedal stop hex screw (where your pedal rod attaches) to the exact point (plus a smidge) so your 6th string raise reaches A.
Once this is done you’ll notice that your third string raise from G# to A is bottoming out before the 6th string G# to A fully engages. To remedy that you’ll need to move the 3rd string pullcollar back slightly such that the 3rd & 6th string G#—>A raises bottom out at exactly the same time.
As a result, the 2nd pedal travel length is now slightly longer and that there will be a bit more slack before the raises engage. Don’t worry that’s just the nature of push-pull guitars . Lowering changes always require a bit more slack to be introduced into the system.
- Austin Starkey
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- Joined: 6 Aug 2020 6:49 am
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