Input jack replacement
Moderator: Shoshanah Marohn
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- Location: Indiana, USA
Input jack replacement
I have a Fender Deluxe 112 Amp and the number 1 input jack quite working--when I put a guitar in it, it makes a lot of noise. I took the board out and see that it is a box attached to the board--it's marked J1---would anyone out there have any experience with this--if so, where can I get a part and how would I replace it. I called a 'fix it shop' and explained this to them and their reply was that they would have to check it out to see what is wrong---it would be about one hundred dollars----I told the guy I know what is wrong and he acted as though I didn't know what I was talking about---so---can anyone help me?
Bob Jennings
Bob Jennings
- Larry Dering
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- Location: Missouri, USA
Bob, I replaced several jacks on a Fender keyboard amp and they were also closed jacks. If you can find the schematic the jack may be identified. Can you see a part number on the jack? They had several different types and the solder points were several spots. I used solder wick to remove old solder. You may be lucky and just the solder joint is cracked. Happens a lot on board mounted jacks. See if this is it.
https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai=DCh ... s=8&adurl=
https://www.google.com/aclk?sa=l&ai=DCh ... s=8&adurl=
- Bill A. Moore
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Electrics
Larry: I'll take the board out again tomorrow and look for a part number on the input box.
Bill: I'll look up the 12A Switchcraft.
Will post what I find out and if I can fix it--hopefully I can.
Bob J.
Bill: I'll look up the 12A Switchcraft.
Will post what I find out and if I can fix it--hopefully I can.
Bob J.
- Mike Auman
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It's a 9-pin switched stereo jack, the Fender part number is 031570. You'll need to desolder all 9 pins from the circuit board, remove the bad jack, and insert and solder the new jack. Here's one source, it's the 4th item listed on this page, their # J-507: https://www.amprepairparts.com/fenderjacks.htm
Long-time guitar player now working on lap steel.
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Electronics
Mike Auman,
I took the Assembly out and found the Part Number to be
3536870 and it is a 9 Pin. In fact, all the inputs have the same Part Number--Input 1 & 2, Foot Switch, Preamp Out, Power Amp In and Head Phones.
So, with this info, I feel that I am not capable of removing the bad part and even if I could get a matching part, I couldn't install the new one. Even though I had training in soldering when I worked for Western Electric in 1957, but was laid off a year later and never called back--and that was over 60 years ago---I'll just let the Amp sit until I can find someone to fix it at a reasonable cost.
I Thank all of you for your information.
Bob Jennings
I took the Assembly out and found the Part Number to be
3536870 and it is a 9 Pin. In fact, all the inputs have the same Part Number--Input 1 & 2, Foot Switch, Preamp Out, Power Amp In and Head Phones.
So, with this info, I feel that I am not capable of removing the bad part and even if I could get a matching part, I couldn't install the new one. Even though I had training in soldering when I worked for Western Electric in 1957, but was laid off a year later and never called back--and that was over 60 years ago---I'll just let the Amp sit until I can find someone to fix it at a reasonable cost.
I Thank all of you for your information.
Bob Jennings
- Erv Niehaus
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Electronics
Erv,
I don't know what to tell you on this--your Amp probably has the same type of input Jack box that is soldered to the board--I've read on the net that this is not a good design--and also read a post that the poster had the same part number as I quoted in my last Post here on the Forum but she said it only had 7 pins---I counted 9 pins on mine.
The Gentleman that said to replace it with a Switchcraft 12A is a good idea but I'd have to remove the board from the assembly and I'm not sure I could do that without damaging all the little parts on the board--I'm sure you can tell by that last statement that I'm no Electronic Expert--Mechanical I can figure out and fix--Electric--I'm lost--anything from turning the ON/OFF switch to ON or OFF and if it doesn't work--I'm lost...
Lots of useless info but, I hope it helps????
Bob J.
I don't know what to tell you on this--your Amp probably has the same type of input Jack box that is soldered to the board--I've read on the net that this is not a good design--and also read a post that the poster had the same part number as I quoted in my last Post here on the Forum but she said it only had 7 pins---I counted 9 pins on mine.
The Gentleman that said to replace it with a Switchcraft 12A is a good idea but I'd have to remove the board from the assembly and I'm not sure I could do that without damaging all the little parts on the board--I'm sure you can tell by that last statement that I'm no Electronic Expert--Mechanical I can figure out and fix--Electric--I'm lost--anything from turning the ON/OFF switch to ON or OFF and if it doesn't work--I'm lost...
Lots of useless info but, I hope it helps????
Bob J.
- Erv Niehaus
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Electronics
Erv,
I hope he can fix it---let me know how things go.
Bob J.
I hope he can fix it---let me know how things go.
Bob J.
- Bill A. Moore
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- Location: Silver City, New Mexico, USA
The original jack is available, but if I'm going to go through the trouble to pull everything apart, I'd replace it with a Switchcraft. In the above schematic there are lots of pins but only three wires for tip-sleeve, and a ground switch.
https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/1 ... amps-88-99
https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/1 ... amps-88-99
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Electronics
Bill A. Moore,
I think that I have a couple of Switchcrafts--I will check and if I do, I'll study the assembly to see if I can remove the board safely, then if I feel I can, I'll remove it and also remove the non working input jack and install the Switchcraft.
Thanks for the advice!
Bob Jennings
I think that I have a couple of Switchcrafts--I will check and if I do, I'll study the assembly to see if I can remove the board safely, then if I feel I can, I'll remove it and also remove the non working input jack and install the Switchcraft.
Thanks for the advice!
Bob Jennings
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- Location: Indiana, USA
Electronics
To all that responded to my Problem:
I decided to try the Low Impedance input thinking if it worked, I'd still have an Amp to use---I plugged a guitar in to the # 2 input and it worked fine. Sounded OK---so, I tried the # 1 input and it worked also---Hmmmmm. the last time I plugged a guitar in to number 1 input--it was real noisey--now, it works fine. So, what could have happened? Are these input assemblies intermittent? What I plan to do is to just leave it in one place not moving it around and not to take it along on any trips. If it keeps on working fine, I've saved myself a lot of work. Anyone know what happened?
Bob Jennings
I decided to try the Low Impedance input thinking if it worked, I'd still have an Amp to use---I plugged a guitar in to the # 2 input and it worked fine. Sounded OK---so, I tried the # 1 input and it worked also---Hmmmmm. the last time I plugged a guitar in to number 1 input--it was real noisey--now, it works fine. So, what could have happened? Are these input assemblies intermittent? What I plan to do is to just leave it in one place not moving it around and not to take it along on any trips. If it keeps on working fine, I've saved myself a lot of work. Anyone know what happened?
Bob Jennings
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Electronics
Willie Sims,
Thanks, I will try this and Post the results.
Bob J.[/i]
Thanks, I will try this and Post the results.
Bob J.[/i]
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Electronics
Willie Sims,
I did this and it helped some--volume comes and goes from loud to almost off....may need a new pot---but I did get it set on a nice volume so, this is all I want.
Thanks for your input and advice.
Bob J.
I did this and it helped some--volume comes and goes from loud to almost off....may need a new pot---but I did get it set on a nice volume so, this is all I want.
Thanks for your input and advice.
Bob J.
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- Location: Indiana, USA
Electronics
I'm embarrassed to say the least!! It's been the Volume and
Treble controls all the time--I sprayed them and worked them back and forth and the Amp works fine.
I better try several different things before I come on the Forum with a problem again.
Bob Jennings
Treble controls all the time--I sprayed them and worked them back and forth and the Amp works fine.
I better try several different things before I come on the Forum with a problem again.
Bob Jennings
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Electronics
Willie Sims,
Thank you!!! I just felt bad about not finding out first that it was the volume and treble controls.
I'm 86, ya got me beat by several years and still doing music--WOW. that is really good.
Hope you have others to do music with.
Then you must remember the Real Country Music and Musicians-and Steel Players--Don Helms, Sonny Burnette, Bud Issacs, James Farmer, Jimmy Siebert, Little Roy Wiggins....
Bob J.
Thank you!!! I just felt bad about not finding out first that it was the volume and treble controls.
I'm 86, ya got me beat by several years and still doing music--WOW. that is really good.
Hope you have others to do music with.
Then you must remember the Real Country Music and Musicians-and Steel Players--Don Helms, Sonny Burnette, Bud Issacs, James Farmer, Jimmy Siebert, Little Roy Wiggins....
Bob J.
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