I've been trying to add the Franklin change (10,6,5 full step lower) on pedal 4 to my double neck Dekley. It has a triple raise, double lower changer and 4 hole bell cranks. I've been trying different bell crank and changer combinations but I can't get the full step lower. I'm just wondering if anyone else has had a similar experience. Is it something I have set up wrong or is the guitar not capable this change? Any feedback or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Are all guitars capable of the Franklin pedal?
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James Parsley
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Dave Mudgett
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Which string(s) can't get the whole-tone lower? And are you using a wound 6th string, as opposed to a plain string?
String 5 on E9 is virtually always a plain string - typically .017p or .018p. I've never had a problem on any guitar getting a whole-tone lower on string 5 with gauges like this.
String 6 might run from .020p or .022p to a .022w or .024w. The wound strings of these gauges have a small-diameter core and typically need significantly more leverage for a given change than the plains, so I suppose it's possible it could be tough to get a whole-tone lower. I have not had any issues getting a whole-tone change on any guitar with a plain 6th .020 or .022 string.
String 10 should be pretty straighforward to get a whole-tone lower. Of course, it's a wound string, but the core gauge is much higher than the thin core on a wound string 6.
There are two basic ways to get a longer pull. First, you can increase the pedal's throw. I'm not savvy on the Dekley mechanics, but this is generally at the coupling of the pedal rod to the pull train. Someone familiar with Dekley can probably fill you in here. Some guitars also have multiple attachment points for the pedal rod on the pedal itself. Second, you can change leverages at the bellcrank and changer. You get the longest and stiffest pull on a change by using the bellcrank hole furthest away from the cross-shaft, and the changer hole closest to the changer axle. So try starting there for any intransigent pull and see what happens. If you are able to get the change with the throw maxed out, the change may be fairly long and stiff. If that's the case, then you can try reducing the throws gradually until you reach a point where it's more comfortable but you can still get the change. And if string 6 is wound and nothing works well, I suggest going to a plain .020 or .022.
I suppose if nothing works, you could also find (or have made) a longer bellcrank for that string 6 change. Again, I'm not savvy on Dekley, but I imagine something could be fashioned if, for example, you really wanted a wound 6th and couldn't get the lower with the throw maxed out with the stock bellcrank.
String 5 on E9 is virtually always a plain string - typically .017p or .018p. I've never had a problem on any guitar getting a whole-tone lower on string 5 with gauges like this.
String 6 might run from .020p or .022p to a .022w or .024w. The wound strings of these gauges have a small-diameter core and typically need significantly more leverage for a given change than the plains, so I suppose it's possible it could be tough to get a whole-tone lower. I have not had any issues getting a whole-tone change on any guitar with a plain 6th .020 or .022 string.
String 10 should be pretty straighforward to get a whole-tone lower. Of course, it's a wound string, but the core gauge is much higher than the thin core on a wound string 6.
There are two basic ways to get a longer pull. First, you can increase the pedal's throw. I'm not savvy on the Dekley mechanics, but this is generally at the coupling of the pedal rod to the pull train. Someone familiar with Dekley can probably fill you in here. Some guitars also have multiple attachment points for the pedal rod on the pedal itself. Second, you can change leverages at the bellcrank and changer. You get the longest and stiffest pull on a change by using the bellcrank hole furthest away from the cross-shaft, and the changer hole closest to the changer axle. So try starting there for any intransigent pull and see what happens. If you are able to get the change with the throw maxed out, the change may be fairly long and stiff. If that's the case, then you can try reducing the throws gradually until you reach a point where it's more comfortable but you can still get the change. And if string 6 is wound and nothing works well, I suggest going to a plain .020 or .022.
I suppose if nothing works, you could also find (or have made) a longer bellcrank for that string 6 change. Again, I'm not savvy on Dekley, but I imagine something could be fashioned if, for example, you really wanted a wound 6th and couldn't get the lower with the throw maxed out with the stock bellcrank.
franklin change
james,
it can be done. you have to a just the stop on pedal 4.
i did it to my super pro that has 3 up 2 down
p.w
it can be done. you have to a just the stop on pedal 4.
i did it to my super pro that has 3 up 2 down
p.w
Hi James,
I have a Dekley with the Franklin change, also. And, as Paul said, it does work.
As per Dave's mention, the pedal travel stop-screw is located on the crank where the rod to your pedal hooks up to.
However, I would recomend his second suggestion first: Move the pull rod to a hole farther from the cross shaft to get a longer throw. Along with Georg's recomendation of making sure the lower-scissor return-spring is operating properly.
If you do adjust the travel stop-screw, though, watch how the A & B pedals stop, when pressed. They both should stop at the same level. If one is higher than the other, the change sometimes won't be in tune because when your foot was stopped, it was not fully pressing the other pedal. (Same goes for the B & C pedals.) Luck on your work......Pat.
I have a Dekley with the Franklin change, also. And, as Paul said, it does work.
As per Dave's mention, the pedal travel stop-screw is located on the crank where the rod to your pedal hooks up to.
However, I would recomend his second suggestion first: Move the pull rod to a hole farther from the cross shaft to get a longer throw. Along with Georg's recomendation of making sure the lower-scissor return-spring is operating properly.
If you do adjust the travel stop-screw, though, watch how the A & B pedals stop, when pressed. They both should stop at the same level. If one is higher than the other, the change sometimes won't be in tune because when your foot was stopped, it was not fully pressing the other pedal. (Same goes for the B & C pedals.) Luck on your work......Pat.
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James Parsley
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James Parsley
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Bob Watson
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I have it on a Zum D10 using the 4 pedal, and it works great but I can't use the split tuning mechanism to tune the 5th and 10th string lower to Bb, since the pedal takes both of those strings down to an A. I have to tune the Bb with the stops, which works great and seems to pretty much stay there, as I've only tuned them a few times, but it does make it a bit more difficult to tune them when they need to be tuned.
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Donny Hinson
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You must check to see if the raise finger is moving when you activate the lower! I've found this to be the primary problem when a guitar won't do a full-tone lower, even when the travel is increased. One extra tip is to get a lighter return spring for that finger. Contrary to what most people believe, a lighter spring works better than reducing the tension of the heavier (stock) return spring. Also, if you're going to use a wound 6th, I recommend a .024 gauge.
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James Parsley
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