Frankin S10 Restoration

Brian Delaney · Post by **Brian Delaney** » 16 Aug 2022 7:23 am

First, I would like to say thank you to everyone on this forum for all of your contributions to this craft. I have built several non-pedal steels (lap and console) over the last few years and much of what has gone into their design has come from this forum. So here it is... Thank you all.

Now I am moving into the world of Pedals and already I feel like I have found my musical home.
I have just acquired a Franklin S10 that needs restoration. It was filthy, had 4 strings left on it, was completely gummed up and it is missing all but one knee lever. After studying what is left I totally understand the mechanics and there is nothing here that I could not make the parts for if I had some reference. I have the RKL as a reference for the shaft mounted levers. I was hoping that if someone has one of these that they could send me some detailed pictures of the parts I am missing. Given my reverence for hand-built instruments I would like to bring this back to its former glory keeping it as close to what Mr. Franklin did originally.

I also have a philosophical question that I think might start a lively discussion. When doing a restoration how far can you go (in PSG circles) to bring an instrument back before you lose the intrinsic value of what it was? In the guitar repair world, it would be okay to repair a crack and try to blend the repair into the finish as it exists but it would not be okay to refinish the instrument. I ask because the laminate is lifting, has a chunk chipped out of the front and has been screwed down in a few places. Also, the paint (it was an aluminum crinkle) is worn through and peeling. Should I endeavor to put the original laminate back down and repair the damage to the point of stopping it from getting worse and leave the paint as is? Call them battle scars. Or is it okay to refinish it with new and make it look brand new?

I would guess getting this repaired / restored would not be economically feasible, but I want the challenge. So far I have gotten what I have playable and staying in tune.

Jack Stoner · Post by **Jack Stoner** » 16 Aug 2022 11:28 am

Given what you describe its been totally trashed. Whatever you do it will not recover the full Franklin value.

I owned a (new) 1982 D-10 Franklin (sold it in 2020). The mica he used was "Nevamar" brand.

Aluminum parts were all polished, no painting of any parts. Parts were made, mostly as needed, so very little spares are around.

The threads for the 1/8" aluminum pull rod nylon tuner ends are 6-40.

Good luck with your project guitar.

e-mail me and I'll send you a copy of my original, as built, rodding chart. Good chance that has been messed with too.

Here is an undercarriage picture of my D-10. The same knee lever design was used on all Franklin's.

Brian Delaney · Post by **Brian Delaney** » 16 Aug 2022 12:39 pm

Thank you Jack. This helps alot.

Cartwright Thompson · Post by **Cartwright Thompson** » 16 Aug 2022 2:46 pm

I was wondering who got that one, congrats!

Marty Broussard · Post by **Marty Broussard** » 16 Aug 2022 2:50 pm

Jack, what diameter are the cross shafts?
Thks

Jack Stoner · Post by **Jack Stoner** » 17 Aug 2022 2:03 am

Marty Broussard wrote:Jack, what diameter are the cross shafts?
Thks

I don't have the guitar, anymore, and don't remember.

Barry Coker · Post by **Barry Coker** » 17 Aug 2022 2:59 am

Hey Marty the cross shafts in a Franklin are 5/16" round whit a flat side milled for set screw.

Barry

Marty Broussard · Post by **Marty Broussard** » 17 Aug 2022 3:40 am

Thanks Jack and Barry!

Craig Coffman · Post by **Craig Coffman** » 17 Aug 2022 4:49 am

Hi Brian. I'm the original owner of an early Franklin U12. I'd be happy to provide any pictures or details that would be helpful. Craig.

Brian Delaney · Post by **Brian Delaney** » 17 Aug 2022 5:04 am

Thank you Craig, I am grateful for the help. I will shoot you an email this morning.