How to setup pull rod timing on Sho Bud?

Kirk Hamre · Post by **Kirk Hamre** » 4 Nov 2006 7:53 am

I recently disassembled my Sho Bud LDG to clean and lubricate. I removed all the pull rods from the changer fingers. I have reassembled and have adjusted all the raises and lowers on my pedals and knee levers. My question concerns timing. I'm not sure how to determine if I've set the timing properly. For instance, my C pedal has a standard Emmons raise of strings 4 and 5. The changer fingers are double raise/double lower, which means I have two holes in the finger for raises and two holes in the finger for lowers. I presently have the pull rod for string 4 in the top hole and the pull rod for string 5 through the second from the top hole. With this arrangement, string 4 is pulled further than string 5 to reach correct pitch. I guess my question is...on raises and lowers, in order to be in correct time with each string on a given knee or pedal do the pull rods have to be in the same finger holes vertically to be in time?
Thanks, Kirk

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1977 Sho Bud LDG,3 Pedals, 4 Knees. 2006 Peavey Nashville 112 Amp. Boss GE-7 Equalizer. Sho Bud Volume Pedal. BJS Bar.

Tony Prior · Post by **Tony Prior** » 4 Nov 2006 8:22 am

well...for an all pull guitar...

maybe...maybe not..

here's my attempt to explain..

the lowest finger position, ( closest to the changer not the floor) along with the lowest bellcrank position( closest to the body) produces the shortest pull.

the highest finger position( farthest from the changer) along with the highest bellcrank position( away from the body) produces the longest throws.

the nomenclature for highest or lowest is not really important, understanding the positions and travel IS.

closer to the body.. shorter pull

closer to the floor..longer pull..

IF you have a string that requires a whole tone pull and a string that requires a half tone pull on the same lever...the string that has the longest throw has the rods in the longer throw positions..and ..the string that requires the shortest pull goes in the finger/bellcrank postions that offer a shorter rod travel.

String gauge also comes into play...

It's hard to answer your direct question..as the changer positions along with the bellcrank postions offer a whole bunch of flexibilty to do what you are asking.

if the pulls are the same, whole tone or half tone, and the gauge strings are pretty close..then the rod positions and bellcrank positons are probably gonna be very close as well.Maybe the same changer position but one place different on the bellcrank...

A bit of trial and error may be in order if you didn't write down the rod changer positions before disassembly...

If you do it again, take close up pictures or make a chart..

I recently disassembled my former Emmons D10 legrande..I am so HAPPY I made a chart before I took it all apart. Marked each Rod, each string position and each changer and bellcrank postion.

It made for a happy/fast re-assembly...

hope this helps

[This message was edited by Tony Prior on 04 November 2006 at 08:36 AM.]

richard burton · Post by **richard burton** » 4 Nov 2006 9:01 am

Edited due to a senior moment

[This message was edited by richard burton on 04 November 2006 at 09:04 AM.]

Bill Ford · Post by **Bill Ford** » 5 Nov 2006 6:03 pm

Kirk,
Adding to what Tony said, the Carter site has a great tech. site with animated "stuff" so you can see how, what works.[a picture being worth a thousand words]

Bill
http://www.steelguitarinfo.com/infoindex.html [This message was edited by Bill Ford on 05 November 2006 at 06:07 PM.]