Two small issues with my Emmons

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Roger Rettig
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Two small issues with my Emmons

Post by Roger Rettig »

I'd appreciate any suggestions!

It's a 2000 LeGrande 111 with 8 and 9.

Issue one:
The nylon tuner on my B pedal: I'll get it spot-on in tune (the A straight up and the open G# a touch flat) and it's fine. However, after a few hours of playing, I'll find it's drifted a bit - almost as though the nylon turns itself. The resulting A is usually a bit sharp. The open string doesn't move.

Issue two:
My pedal five (standard C6): I can't even rest the sole of my foot on it without the pedal moving the strings, string 5/G being particularly sensitive. All other pedals have that comfortable 'space' before they engage but I have to be careful to hover my foot above P5.

Is there something I can adjust?
Nikolai Shveitser
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Post by Nikolai Shveitser »

Regarding the B pedal, does that 6th string nylon tuner feel looser/ easier to turn than the others? I find the nylon tuners get unstable if there's a significant amount of tuner hanging off the end of the pull rod. Maybe that's the culprit?

P5 seems like it needs a timing adjustment. That G-F# change starts before the others, giving it that touchy pedal feel. You're going to want to move that pull rod to a hole on the bellcrank that's closer to the cross shaft.
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Roger Rettig
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Post by Roger Rettig »

Yes, Nikolai

The nylon is almost tunable with wrench. But I don't think it protrudes very much out if the changer's aperture.

I will see where that pull rod is located and, if possible, move it nearer the cross-shaft.

Thanks.
J Fletcher
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Post by J Fletcher »

Regarding moving the pull rod , shouldn't you be moving it to a bell crank hole that's farther from the cross shaft , to get more pull ? Then you can back off the nylon tuning nut and get a bit of slack .
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b0b
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Post by b0b »

On P5, are you saying that string 5 (G to F#) moves before strings 9 & 10 start moving? If so, you want to move the rod farther from the cross shaft to balance the timing better.
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Roger Rettig
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Post by Roger Rettig »

Yes, b0b, but it's the sensitivity of pedal 5. I certainly can't rest my foot there,, however lightly it may be.
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b0b
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Post by b0b »

If the pulls are properly timed, you shouldn't have that problem. The tension of the 3 pulls together should be enough to prevent it.

Does your guitar have helper springs for the raises? That's another potential trouble spot.
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Nikolai Shveitser
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Post by Nikolai Shveitser »

J Fletcher wrote:Regarding moving the pull rod , shouldn't you be moving it to a bell crank hole that's farther from the cross shaft , to get more pull ? Then you can back off the nylon tuning nut and get a bit of slack .
:whoa: Yes! You're right. Thanks for catching that.
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Roger Rettig
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Post by Roger Rettig »

Thanks, guys - I'll give that a try.

Any point in replacing the nylon tuner on my P2?
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Lynn Stafford
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Post by Lynn Stafford »

Roger Rettig wrote:Thanks, guys - I'll give that a try.

Any point in replacing the nylon tuner on my P2?
Hi Roger,

You might want to go ahead and replace that nylon tuning nut for P2.

As for P5, try backing off on the "back slack" adjusting screw that's on the crank right next to the front apron for that cross bar. Doing that will give you the slack that you are seeking. You'll need a 7/64" Allem wrench or driver. It's the same size screw as is used for the split tuning screws.
Best regards,
Lynn Stafford

STEEL GUITAR WEST
http://www.steelguitarwest.com
Steel Guitar Technician (Restoration, Set-up, Service and Repair work)

Previous Emmons Authorized Dealer & Service Technician (original factory is now closed)

ZumSteel Authorized Service Technician
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Roger Rettig
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Post by Roger Rettig »

Thanks, Lynn.

I was glad to read you update on your treatment and that you're staying on top if things. Your attitude does you great credit and I send my very best wishes.
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Roger Rettig
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Post by Roger Rettig »

P5 is already better from adjusting the 'back slack' screw.

b0b: I checked and P5 is, in fact, hooked to the bell-crank really near the cross-shaft. I plan on changing my C6 P4 from the present, and little used A-B raises. When I flip the guitar over, I'll also relocate P5 on the B/C.

I've changed the nylon on the 6th/B pedal on E9. Time will tell with that as it's an elusive problem that comes and goes.

Thanks to everyone for all the help!
Roger Rettig - Emmons D10
(8+9: 'Day' pedals) Williams SD-12 (D13th: 8+6), Quilter TT-12, B-bender Teles and several old Martins.
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Lynn Stafford
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Post by Lynn Stafford »

Roger,

I'm happy to be of help to you and thanks for your very kind words. Along with many others, I'm wishing you the best as well with your ongoing medical challenges.
Best regards,
Lynn Stafford

STEEL GUITAR WEST
http://www.steelguitarwest.com
Steel Guitar Technician (Restoration, Set-up, Service and Repair work)

Previous Emmons Authorized Dealer & Service Technician (original factory is now closed)

ZumSteel Authorized Service Technician
----------------------------------
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Roger Rettig
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Post by Roger Rettig »

Thanks, Lynn. It is what it is, as they say. My multiple issues are at least manageable, as tiresome as the insulin-pump maintenance and dialysis routine is, but neither problem is life-threatening.

I find, now that I'm forced to stop working away on shows, that music has become even more dominating in my life. I curse the time I wasted when I could have been practicing and improving.

As for the Emmons, reading back through this thread, I realize that I didn't yet relocate P5's rod on the bell-crank. Tomorrow morning, if my arthritis allows, I'll heft the guitar up on the table again and take care of it.

I'm still glowing after fixing that Pedal 4! 'Meat & potatoes' to you, Lynn, I know. :)
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