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Topic: Help repair gap on changer on JCH |
Greg Schultz
From: Chicago, IL, USA
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Posted 4 Jun 2022 12:22 pm
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Hi friends, looking for advice on how to fix the problem on my beloved JCH. See the 3/64 gap on the high end of the changer in the photos. It seems the metal surround was too big or expanded on that side, and the changer may have shifted, leaving the gap. Other side is fine. Now when I pull the first string it isn't a clean raise, as the finger first wobbles over to fill the gap.
Do I slip in some sort of half washer? Use a clamp to try to bend the end piece back in? I have not taken apart the changer but will if that is necessary (with some guidance).
Thank you!
Greg
 _________________ Zum, JCH, Sho Bud, too many amps, striving to get better at all of it. |
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Kelcey ONeil
From: Sevierville, TN
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Posted 4 Jun 2022 12:53 pm
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In your second picture, the two Phillips head screw going through the tail piece into the changer mount look like they're not tight; it also looks the mount is leaning a bit. You may try loosening the strings and using a clamp to pull the mount back over and then tighten the screws. _________________ Co-owner and operator: Emmons Guitar Co. |
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Greg Schultz
From: Chicago, IL, USA
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Posted 4 Jun 2022 1:58 pm
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Thanks Kelcey. I think the photo angle makes the screw look loose but they are both fully tight. However I will try to loosen them and pull the changer mount back over when I change the strings tomorrow. |
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Kelcey ONeil
From: Sevierville, TN
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Posted 4 Jun 2022 5:52 pm
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Greg,
If they're not loose the mount is probably not the problem. It is possible to cut a nylon shim and see if you can work it in there _________________ Co-owner and operator: Emmons Guitar Co. |
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Greg Schultz
From: Chicago, IL, USA
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Posted 5 Jun 2022 6:04 am
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I'll give that a try. Thank you so much. |
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Jim Palenscar
From: Oceanside, Calif, USA
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Posted 6 Jun 2022 7:51 am
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I have some metal shims for that changer however it requires removing the neck and the one pillow block. |
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Greg Schultz
From: Chicago, IL, USA
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Posted 6 Jun 2022 7:57 am
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Thanks Jim. I am pretty good technically and want to get it fixed right. But haven't removed the neck before. How difficult an operation would you say it is? |
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Jim Palenscar
From: Oceanside, Calif, USA
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Posted 6 Jun 2022 8:03 am
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not too difficult- some of the screws are under cross shafts so you have to monkey w that- keyhead doesn't have to come off but makes it easier. You can probably do it w a nylon spacer w/o going through all that just need to clip about 30% of the appropriate sized spacer/washer off and press it in. The JCH axles are pretty big. Let me know if I can help in any way. |
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Donny Hinson
From: Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
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Posted 6 Jun 2022 8:17 am
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It appears that the changer assembly is very slightly angled, and that it's that angle that's causing at least part of the "gap problem". That may be because the changer has moved slightly on one end, or it may be a manufacturing defect that's been there since the guitar was built. I'd remove the strings and springs, then loosen the changer mounting screws and see if it can be shifted a little so that it's not angled, and the pillow blocks can be pulled in tighter to eliminate excess play in the fingers. |
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Greg Schultz
From: Chicago, IL, USA
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Posted 6 Jun 2022 8:19 am
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I'm going to try with a spacer first. Looks like I need 2-3/64 thick, 5/8 inside diameter, 7/8 outside diameter. Is that the right size for the axle? They don't have nylon at Zoro or McMaster-Carr. Would steel work? |
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Greg Schultz
From: Chicago, IL, USA
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Posted 6 Jun 2022 8:26 am
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Donny, thanks. I will give that a try. I think this is a very early JCH (it doesn't have a serial number) so maybe Jimmy Crawford was still working out some of the manufacturing kinks. Ideally that would solve it and I won't need a spacer, but I am going to pursue both solutions just in case. |
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Johnie King
From: Tennessee, USA
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Posted 6 Jun 2022 10:25 am
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[Thin Brass shim washers cut with scissors too spread put on put on axel.
You would need several too get the thickness you need.
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Last edited by Johnie King on 6 Jun 2022 10:33 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Greg Schultz
From: Chicago, IL, USA
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Posted 6 Jun 2022 10:32 am
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Thanks Johnie! I will get some of those. Hope you are doing well.
Greg |
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Marco Schouten
From: Amsterdam, The Netherlands
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Posted 10 Jun 2022 10:57 am
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Put a thin knifeblade between the first ring and the changer block and tap on it, so that the ring moves a bit to the changerfinger. you can do the same with the 2 rings next to the 10th string changer finger, first between the 2 rings, than between the last ring and the changer block. _________________ ----------------------------------
JCH SD-10 with BL XR-16 pickup, Sho-Bud Volume Pedal, Evidence Audio Lyric HG cables, Quilter Steelaire combo |
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Greg Schultz
From: Chicago, IL, USA
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Posted 10 Jun 2022 11:48 am Fixed, I hope
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McMaster-Carr had steel washers (sold as shims) with the correct interior diameter for the axle, exterior diameter for the fingers, and thickness of 1/64th. I snipped off the bottom third of the shims and forced two of them into the open space on the high side of the changer next to the 1st string. A few drops of sewing machine oil, and it looks clean and the pull on the first string now works as expected. Nylon washers might have been better with less friction, but couldn't find any with the right specs.
Thanks Kelcey, Jim, Donny, Johnie and Marco for the guidance. I have also attached the original photos for comparison.
Problem
Solution
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Jim Palenscar
From: Oceanside, Calif, USA
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Posted 10 Jun 2022 12:02 pm
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Hip Hip! Way to go! |
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