String gauge inconsistency?

[Ben Lawson]

I changed the strings on my old Emmons P/P this past week. I messed up and didn't go in my usual order, so naturally I screwed up. I have a digital caliper and tried measuring the strings to get them in the proper sequence but only a few were the actual stated size. These were brand new strings but C6th strings rattle and both neck are hard to tune. Is it normal to have a plus/minus variation on strings? They looked like the may have been 'mature' strings. I don't know how long they were in the music store. They're popular brand name strings.
Has anyone else had this situation, and what's the remedy?
I guess this is way we need tuning wrenches for the changer.
Thanks!

[Ian Rae]

What do you mean by "digital caliper"? At this level you need a micrometer, I would suggest.

[Jack Stoner]

String gauges used to vary, some quite a bit but modern manufacturing has eliminated most of the variances in the brands I've used or tested.


I agree a micrometer is really needed. I have a small one just for strings.

[Ben Lawson]

Ian, Jack thanks. I'll pick up a micrometer today. The new strings on the back neck still aren't to my liking and I'm playing tonight. C6 won't be an option.

[Jon Light]

I've got one of these digital calipers and it seemed to be reliable at first (a few years ago) but lately I seem to get slightly wonky string gauge readings. Considering that this was a ± $25 unit and considering that you can pay a LOT more for one, it seems like a miracle that it works at all (and it definitely does, for sizing rods and stuff like that). Considering its sensitivity, I'm sure any imprecision with the angle that I'm holding it is going to be reflected in the readings.
Just saying. I have indeed suspected string gauges on occasion but I'm not ready to bet big money on the subject.
I do note that you said that the strings feel & behave wrong. That counts for a lot.

[Dave Mudgett]

Caliper can get you close, but it's harder to get a good measurement. I also use a micrometer - I routinely make up custom string sets for nonpedal steel and slide guitar for various tunings, and I frequently need to measure strings. I keep a spare in my gig bag. My old, old Starrett that I got from my machinist grandfather 50 years ago is uber accurate, but the $20 locking General No 102 from Ace Hardware works OK - it just requires adjusting to get the stop tension right.

I fairly often notice slight errors in string diameter. These are usually strictly less than ±.001" on plain strings, might occasionally be a bit more on wounds, and very occasionally I find one so far off that it's clear someone stuck a wrong string in the package. There are a couple of specific string packs that consistently have a string that is obviously and noticeably different from spec. For example, the 6th string of a light set of GHS Precision Flatwounds have been consistently .002" off spec on every set I've bought over more than 10 years at different times from different suppliers. The gauges have been consistent but that string is just wrong. I love the sound and feel of the strings for one archtop and my jazz-oriented Les Paul, but I've had to accept that the low string will always be a bit slacker than I prefer.

I have noticed more variations in some of the 'hand-wound' strings I've tried and measured. I assume that it is harder to get really tight tolerances using hand-guided winders. But some of them sound real good in a particular situation. But these are all string sets for guitar, not steel

[Jack Stoner]

I've used "Nashville" (AKA Sho-Bud) gauges for years. Some other brands use different gauges. I've tried some of the other brands/gauges and although I could get them tuned up, just didn't feel right.
D'Addario is one brand that I've tried, including the NYXL and they seem "stiff".

I've been using SIT "Sho-Bud" gauges strings (nickel wound) and they feel right and don't vary from set to set. I've tried the SIT Buddy Emmons set (Stainless wound) as that is what GFI installs on new guitars and didn't like them.

[Kelcey ONeil]

A set of quality calipers(Brown and Sharpe, Mitutoyo, Starrett,) will accurately measure strings, but bargain digital calipers are unlikely to be reliable at that scale. I doubt gauges varying is much of an issue, but strings sitting for a long time is, some are stinkers right out of the pack.

[Ben Lawson]

I have two calipers like Jon and they have become less accurate lately. I found some micrometers on line but I like seeing things first hand before I buy. I went to the usual local sources, or so I thought, but no luck yet. I hope I can get something before New Years Eve.
Kelsey I think the strings are a bit long in the tooth as there are black spots on the C6th set. Best of luck Kelsey and Darin with your new "day jobs". I believe you've reset the standard for pedal steel guitars!
Thanks for the replies everyone.

[Donny Hinson]

Any digital caliper you buy for under $100 is probably junk, or will be very shortly. The good ones (Starrett or Mitutoyo) cost well over that.

[Ben Lawson]

So I've learned Donny. Thanks.

[Ben Lawson]

So I've learned Donny. Thanks.

[Bill C. Buntin]

I think this is the reason I used George L strings almost exclusively during the days when I worked 5 + nights a week. Changing strings about every ten days or so. The George L strings, at least in those days, were very consistent. I still use George L but I have not mic'ed any of them in years now. I probably don't go through more than 6 sets per year now

It always seemed more noticeable on wound strings, at least in my experience.

[Dennis Detweiler]

The core wire on wound strings can vary in diameter between brands, which can lead to retuning a pull or pedal stop. When you get to about .070 you get into compound wound.

[Dennis Detweiler]

Tuning gets very squirrely if a string is inconsistent guage as you check it in various places along the length of the string. It can also be in tune open and out of tune up the neck (intonation).