My new MelbertMaster + cutting convoluted foam

Lap steels, resonators, multi-neck consoles and acoustic steel guitars

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Phillip Hermans
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My new MelbertMaster + cutting convoluted foam

Post by Phillip Hermans »

Howdy all!

I recently received my beautiful MelbertMaster 8-string. This guitar is glorious. I have been playing on my hacked and beat-up BR-9 for years and using this new guitar things are instantly better! Better sustain, even string spacing, stays in tune, even tone (thanks to George L bladed pickups!). The longer scale length makes slants a bit more challenging, and I can't really do any bends below the 3rd fret, but I'm sure I'll get used to it with time.

All around a great job by Bob Allen! High quality at an affordable price, I am not sure how he pulls it off but I am sure glad he does!


Image

I bought a Plano Tactical Series Long Gun Case 42" (like this one on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072D ... UTF8&psc=1)

This case came with convoluted foam on both sides. Not the layered foam or pluck and pull foam like I see in most gun cases. It does have slits cut in it to allow for accessory straps, which is pretty neat.

But in order to get the case to close I would really have to force it. I suppose I need to shave off an inch or more of foam. Before I go to hacking away at the foam, I just wanna make sure I'm not missing something. Curious to hear y'alls ideas. Thanks!

Here's the bottom layer of foam:

Image
(Bottom layer of foam with slits)
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Allan Revich
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Post by Allan Revich »

Can’t answer your question, but that is a fine looking’ lap steel!
Current Tunings:
6 String | D – D A D F# A D
7 String | D/f – f D A D F# A D
https://papadafoe.com/lap-steel-tuning-database
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Bill Groner
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Post by Bill Groner »

Why don't you trace the perimeter of your steel on to the foam. Then bandsaw it out. Take the scrap piece and cut it in short sections head, butt, middle. Since they will be much smaller in size than the whole piece of foam, you should be able to stand them on their side and cut off what you need to make your 3 pads the proper height. (Bob did you a huge favor by making your steel straight sided) This will now give you extra protection around the perimeter. Or if you have some precut foam laying around use it and only deal with cutting the shape on your 3 pads. I know they sell scrape pieces at craft shops. I never tried this, but it seems pretty reasonble to me and should do the job quite nicely. You could even get creative and put the whole thing on an angle if you like and while you are at it using the same method add some pockets for your tone bar and picks etc. I realize that the blade has to start some where and unless you have a bandsaw with a blade welder attachment on it, I guess you will have to pick and end close to the edge of the case and start a straight cut into the cavity. Maybe you could make the cut where the jack falls on the steel and make a slot for the cord out of it. You just have sit back and use you imagination........problems always have solutions.


Make sure you use a blade with say, 20 teeth per inch, not some coarse blade.......that will tear the foam.
Currently own, 6 Groner-tone lap steels, one 1953 Alamo Lap steel, Roland Cube, Fender Champion 40
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George Piburn
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Wait == it is easy

Post by George Piburn »

Just use a standard Kitchen Electric Knife. They cut foam like butter, as well as fingers too.

I've cut hundreds of Plano and Pelican case foams this way.
Karl Paulsen
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Post by Karl Paulsen »

There have been a few situations where I've been able to get a good fit with two sheets of eggcrate simply by plucking off the high points of the eggcrate where it contacts the item I'm storing.

Otherwise I'd cut out the shape of the instrument on the bottom piece of foam and put a nice thick (at least 1/2 inch) of EVA foam as the bottom layer. EVA is an excellent shock absorber when you're dealing with a flat surface.
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Don Poland
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Post by Don Poland »

As Karl has mentioned. Why not just cut off the "bumps" above and below the instrument?
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Bill Groner
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Post by Bill Groner »

Phillip what kind of wood did Bob use? That sure is a nice looking lap steel. The reason I suggested using a band saw rather than an electric kitchen knife was for stablilty. If you aren't real steady, you could set up a fence on the saw. A good looking instument deserves a professional looking case, not to mention......one without turkey grease on it! :whoa: :whoa: :roll:
Currently own, 6 Groner-tone lap steels, one 1953 Alamo Lap steel, Roland Cube, Fender Champion 40
Phillip Hermans
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Post by Phillip Hermans »

Allan Revich wrote:Can’t answer your question, but that is a fine looking’ lap steel!
Thanks Allan, it plays great. I will post a video soon so folks can hear it!
Phillip Hermans
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Post by Phillip Hermans »

Bill Groner wrote:Why don't you trace the perimeter of your steel on to the foam. Then bandsaw it out. Take the scrap piece and cut it in short sections head, butt, middle. Since they will be much smaller in size than the whole piece of foam, you should be able to stand them on their side and cut off what you need to make your 3 pads the proper height. (Bob did you a huge favor by making your steel straight sided) This will now give you extra protection around the perimeter. Or if you have some precut foam laying around use it and only deal with cutting the shape on your 3 pads. I know they sell scrape pieces at craft shops. I never tried this, but it seems pretty reasonble to me and should do the job quite nicely. You could even get creative and put the whole thing on an angle if you like and while you are at it using the same method add some pockets for your tone bar and picks etc. I realize that the blade has to start some where and unless you have a bandsaw with a blade welder attachment on it, I guess you will have to pick and end close to the edge of the case and start a straight cut into the cavity. Maybe you could make the cut where the jack falls on the steel and make a slot for the cord out of it. You just have sit back and use you imagination........problems always have solutions.


Make sure you use a blade with say, 20 teeth per inch, not some coarse blade.......that will tear the foam.
Thanks for the idea! I am leaning towards doing something like this. I think my hacksaw may have fine enough teeth, although George says Kitchen Electric Knife is the way to go! I will take my time as I don't want a hacky case to go with this wonderful guitar.
Phillip Hermans
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Re: Wait == it is easy

Post by Phillip Hermans »

George Piburn wrote:Just use a standard Kitchen Electric Knife. They cut foam like butter, as well as fingers too.

I've cut hundreds of Plano and Pelican case foams this way.
I have seen you mention this in other threads, its a great idea! I should have "borrowed" one from the in-laws over Turkey Day
Phillip Hermans
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Post by Phillip Hermans »

Karl Paulsen wrote:There have been a few situations where I've been able to get a good fit with two sheets of eggcrate simply by plucking off the high points of the eggcrate where it contacts the item I'm storing.

Otherwise I'd cut out the shape of the instrument on the bottom piece of foam and put a nice thick (at least 1/2 inch) of EVA foam as the bottom layer. EVA is an excellent shock absorber when you're dealing with a flat surface.
This is probably the easiest way to go. The guitar fits in there if I gently force it as is. But it feels a little iffy. I don't get the impression that this foam will take shape to the guitar over time. (apologies for the pun)
Phillip Hermans
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Post by Phillip Hermans »

Bill Groner wrote:Phillip what kind of wood did Bob use? That sure is a nice looking lap steel. The reason I suggested using a band saw rather than an electric kitchen knife was for stablilty. If you aren't real steady, you could set up a fence on the saw. A good looking instument deserves a professional looking case, not to mention......one without turkey grease on it! :whoa: :whoa: :roll:
Haha indeed I want to keep gobbler grease off of my case.

The guitar is an ash body... I can't recall the particular kind and it doesn't seem to be in the emails. He told me on the phone months ago but now I have forgotten... whoops!

And I agree with you that this guitar deserves a pro looking case! That is why I made this thread and didn't just go with my instinct to start cutting.
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Ash

Post by Robert Allen »

Bill Groner wrote:Phillip what kind of wood did Bob use? :whoa: :whoa: :roll:
American White Ash, a.k.a. Fraxinus americana.
General Finishes amber water based dye stain, lacquer topcoats.
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Post by Karl Paulsen »

Phillip Hermans wrote:
Bill Groner wrote:Phillip what kind of wood did Bob use? That sure is a nice looking lap steel. The reason I suggested using a band saw rather than an electric kitchen knife was for stablilty. If you aren't real steady, you could set up a fence on the saw. A good looking instument deserves a professional looking case, not to mention......one without turkey grease on it! :whoa: :whoa: :roll:
Haha indeed I want to keep gobbler grease off of my case.

The guitar is an ash body... I can't recall the particular kind and it doesn't seem to be in the emails. He told me on the phone months ago but now I have forgotten... whoops!

And I agree with you that this guitar deserves a pro looking case! That is why I made this thread and didn't just go with my instinct to start cutting.
You are right that foam rubber won't conform much, at least not for a VERY long time.

Cut off the peaks and if that doesn't work you can still do a full cutout (bottom side only) and hot glue in a sheet of EVA or other dense foam as a bottom layer.

Good luck!
Nickel and Steel. Sad Songs and Steel Guitar.
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Chicago Valley Railroad. Trainspotting and Bargain Hunting...
https://chicagovalleyrailroad.blogspot.com/
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Steven Hudson
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Post by Steven Hudson »

Awesome looking guitar. I love my Melbert. Good luck.
2001 Marlen S-10, 2020 Zumsteel Encore, Melbert 6 string Roundabout, Evans E250 VH Amp
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