Need Help Setting Up Mullen RP

[Matt Waldrum]

Hey guys,
I just picked up my second royal precision from forum member Luke Sullivan (thanks Luke!) and I’m trying to set it up to match the set up of my first one. I’m Using the same holes in the bell cranks and the changer, and matching the pedal heights and stops.
So far I’ve got the A B and C pedals and E knees on the left timed and feeling good, but my first and second string raise on RKL is stiff and there is no play in the lever as there should be, and it’s probably on the verge of being over tuned (although there seems to be plenty of travel) at the changer.
The other problem is setting up the second string lower half stop. I can’t get the whole step to go down all the way to C#. Using the top holes of the bell cranks on that as well, and there’s plenty of travel at the changer.
Lastly, there is a fourth pedal that I’m trying to lower string six (wound) to F#, and that won’t go all the way down to F#, using the top hole in the bell crank furthest from the body of the guitar, and again, there seems to be plenty of travel at the changer.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks!

[Paul Wade]

Here
Call Mullen guitars they should help you out


P.w

[Kelcey ONeil]

The easiest place to start on the lowers not getting down to pitch, is to put the pull rods in the changer hole closest to bottom of the aprons( farthest from the underbelly of the guitar), or the lever stop needs backed up to allow more travel. The first condition is a “sleeper” and can be baffling, the changer reaches a certain point and the pitch stops lowering even though the changer continues to travel; helper springs often exacerbate this, you can try removing them on those strings if it has them. The latter will be necessary if the former doesn’t do the trick, simply adjust the lever stop away from the lever until it has sufficient travel to get to pitch. Also, a wound 6th string requires a LOT of travel to get to F#, so bear that in mind.

[Paul Wade]

The easiest place to start on the lowers not getting down to pitch, is to put the pull rods in the changer hole closest to bottom of the aprons( farthest from the underbelly of the guitar), or the lever stop needs backed up to allow more travel. The first condition is a “sleeper” and can be baffling, the changer reaches a certain point and the pitch stops lowering even though the changer continues to travel; helper springs often exacerbate this, you can try removing them on those strings if it has them. The latter will be necessary if the former doesn’t do the trick, simply adjust the lever stop away from the lever until it has sufficient travel to get to pitch.

Yep what Kelsey said

[Matt Waldrum]

The easiest place to start on the lowers not getting down to pitch, is to put the pull rods in the changer hole closest to bottom of the aprons( farthest from the underbelly of the guitar), or the lever stop needs backed up to allow more travel. The first condition is a “sleeper” and can be baffling, the changer reaches a certain point and the pitch stops lowering even though the changer continues to travel; helper springs often exacerbate this, you can try removing them on those strings if it has them. The latter will be necessary if the former doesn’t do the trick, simply adjust the lever stop away from the lever until it has sufficient travel to get to pitch. Also, a wound 6th string requires a LOT of travel to get to F#, so bear that in mind.

Thanks for the reply, Kelsey. Right now the pull rods are already set up as you described and they are on the last hole on the bell crank furthest from the guitar. I also took the lever stop completely out and I can almost get to that C# but not quite, my right thigh hits the back leg of the guitar with all that travel. Then there’s the issue with setting up the half stop. It feels like there is too much travel before it gets to the D note, then less to get to C#.
For strings one and two being stiff, I’ve tried everything I know, and it still has no play in the lever. I can get it in tune, but it’s very stiff and close to being over tuned.
For the wound 6 string, I have this set up on my other guitar on the LKV and have no issues with it. I’m not sure why the new Guitar can’t accommodate that change on a foot pedal.
I suppose I’ll call Mike at Mullen tomorrow, unless you have any other ideas.
Thanks!

[Bobby D. Jones]

If the problem is on RKL? How does the tuning rod get its "Pull"? Does the knee lever anchor point and pull point reverse positions for pull on the rod? (Like a GFI Steel) Or is there a reversing mechanism attached to the bottom of the body, Or to the back apron.(Like 1970'S MSA Steel) Check the linkage close there may be adjustment holes being overlooked.
Compare the pulls to the guitar you are matching the set up on. A stop or adjustment may be hidden in the abundance of mechanics under the guitar.
Good Luck finding and curing the problem and back to Happy Steelin

[Mike DiAlesandro]

What gauge string are you using for your 2nd string? An .015 should lower properly, perhaps the wrong gauge was inadvertently installed along the way?

Also, a unwound .022 for your G# should lower to an F# easily, and can be split with your B pedal to get the G when the RKL and B pedal are pressed.

[Matt Waldrum]

If the problem is on RKL? How does the tuning rod get its "Pull"? Does the knee lever anchor point and pull point reverse positions for pull on the rod? (Like a GFI Steel) Or is there a reversing mechanism attached to the bottom of the body, Or to the back apron.(Like 1970'S MSA Steel) Check the linkage close there may be adjustment holes being overlooked.
Compare the pulls to the guitar you are matching the set up on. A stop or adjustment may be hidden in the abundance of mechanics under the guitar.
Good Luck finding and curing the problem and back to Happy Steelin

The RKL raises strings 1 and 2, and I removed a small round felt pad that kept part of that mechanism (that I think you’re referring to) from hitting the body of the guitar. Now there is some play in the lever and the change works. It still feels stiff though.
The main problem is the 2nd string lower with the half stop. I can barely get to the C#, even with the lever stop at maximum travel. There is just too much travel for my taste.
Similar problem with the 4th pedal lowering string 6 (.22 wound) to F#. With max travel it still doesn’t reach that F#. My other guitar has the 6th lower to F# and 10th lower to A on the LKV and it feels great, and there’s room to tune below the targeted pitch.

[Matt Waldrum]

What gauge string are you using for your 2nd string? An .015 should lower properly, perhaps the wrong gauge was inadvertently installed along the way?

Also, a unwound .022 for your G# should lower to an F# easily, and can be split with your B pedal to get the G when the RKL and B pedal are pressed.

The 2nd string is a .015, and the half stop and lower work perfectly on my other guitar.
The 6th string G# lower is (for now) on P4, and is a wound .022. Again, I have this change along with the 10th string lower to A on my other guitar, on the LKV and it works and feels great.

[Al Evans]

Just an off chance, but has the guitar perhaps been retrofitted with split screws? That could explain it.

--Al Evans

[Matt Waldrum]

Just an off chance, but has the guitar perhaps been retrofitted with split screws? That could explain it.

--Al Evans

No, it doesn’t have splits.

[Jason Putnam]

Crazy question, but are the nylon tuners on those changes flush with the changer fingers?

[Matt Waldrum]

Crazy question, but are the nylon tuners on those changes flush with the changer fingers?

Yes Jason, they are flush with the changer fingers.

After over an hour on video chat troubleshooting with Mike @ Mullen Guitars (big thanks to him!) he thinks that the changer is worn out. Which is unfortunate, because after shipping charges both ways and repairing the changer, it will cost north of $500.