Franklin D-10 Lower Return Compensator Issue

[Tony Rankin]

I am having a problem with the lower return compensator, on the sixth string of my Franklin D10.

On my Franklin, I lower six a whole tone and have a tunable split on that string that’s accomplished with a hex socket head screw. (I know this is very rare, but it was installed by Mr. Franklin, and I also have a tunable split screw on the fifth string.)

Here’s what happens: I tune the open string, B pedal raise, split lower with the nylon nut, then the whole tone lower with the hex socket screw. All works well. But, when I adjust the lower return compensator to bring the lowered note back true, the open string is then sharp. If I back off the nylon nut on the LRC the string returns to proper pitch.

Seems like a classic case of insufficient travel...but where exactly do I need to add more travel? What am I missing here? I am stumped and am hoping someone here with advanced knowledge of steel mechanics can help me solve my dilemma.

The Franklin changer is triple raise and double lower. The nylon nut on the LRC is in the L1 position (closest to the top of the guitar).

Thanks for any help you can provide.

[Jack Stoner]

Could be the rubber O ring that is between the compensator tuning nut and the lower scissor point. I replaced them when I cleaned the changer, but I've had problems with them before.

Ace Hardware has the O rings. I don't remember the size, but take the old one with you.

May be something else but the O ring is a good and easy start. I never had trouble with that, and rarely had to readjust anything related to the compensator or the full or split lower. I always used a .020P string (I used the Sho-Bud gauges - what Mr Franklin told me to use).

[Tony Rankin]

I'm also using a .020P. I have some O rings on hand, so i will replace it just to be safe.

[Mike Holder]

One other point to consider is that when tuning a tuning compensator make sure you lower the string via the knee lever then turn it in the direction you desire. I would back everything off and start again on that string.
Do the raise first with the B pedal
Do the split 2nd with the B pedal and the Knee Lever
Do the final lower with the ( tuning screw or blue lower hex whichever you have )
Then tune the compensator raising and lowering that string until it comes back true but each time you turn it make sure the knee lever is engaged lowering the string.

[Jack Stoner]

Mike, this is the Franklin I had. Never had a problem with the 6th string return compensator. Had that guitar from new in 82 to 2020. I didn't find any difference adjusting the split lower first or the full lower first. Tried it both ways didn't make any difference. Never adjusted the compensators with the lower knee lever(s) operated.

[Mike Holder]

Hi Jack; I'm just going by the page Paul SR. sent with each guitar suggesting it be done that way, all good tho.thanks!!

[Tony Rankin]

One other point to consider is that when tuning a tuning compensator make sure you lower the string via the knee lever then turn it in the direction you desire. I would back everything off and start again on that string.
Do the raise first with the B pedal
Do the split 2nd with the B pedal and the Knee Lever
Do the final lower with the ( tuning screw or blue lower hex whichever you have )
Then tune the compensator raising and lowering that string until it comes back true but each time you turn it make sure the knee lever is engaged lowering the string.

Mike, just to say It simply...Been there, done that. Numerous times! There's a problem somewhere that's preventing this sequence from working successfully. After doing this, the open string is sharp. If I release the tension on the LRC's
nylon nut, the open note will go back true.

I hope this better explains my predicament.

[Franklin]

Dad said to try oiling the changer first...Because of the minimal movement needed when a changer starts getting dry the first place a returning problem may occur is with the compensators.

If that does not work change the O ring...

Personally, On the road I have had strings that caused your problem. I replaced it from a different batch of strings and the problem was resolved...When strings are purchased at the same time the entire batch of that guage is likely defective so to know for sure grab a single from any brand to know for sure...I would try the oil, then the string, then the O ring...

[Mike Holder]

Nice of your dad to help with his knowledge, please pass on regards from the entire steel community and to you also for relaying this info. Very helpful gesture!

[Tony Rankin]

Thanks Paul and give my regards to your father.

I had already tried changing the O-ring. I will oil it and replace the string from a new batch.

Thanks again!

[Jack Stoner]

Nice of Paul to comment and try to help.
My next two suggestions were given by Paul, Oil and a different .020 string.

[Jerry Horch]

Thumbs up for Paul Sr.& Paul....
You just cant beat that,God Bless.

[Earnest Bovine]

If that does not work change the O ring...

Do you have a source for O-rings of the right size, stiffness, and elasticitude?

[Franklin]

Double posted

[Franklin]

Dad bought them at Ace Hardware...Stock O-rings

[Tony Rankin]

Earnest...got mine at Ace. 1/4 O.D. and 1/8 I.D.