Wiring Fender D-8 for max "Boo-Wah" and "Stutter Switch"
Moderator: Brad Bechtel
- Jim Fogarty
- Posts: 1382
- Joined: 14 Dec 1999 1:01 am
- Location: Phila, Pa, USA
- Contact:
Wiring Fender D-8 for max "Boo-Wah" and "Stutter Switch"
Hey,
So I have a beautiful 1952 Fender Dual 8 Professional. The pots were dead when I got it, so I carefully removed (and saved!) them, and replaced them with normal guitar 250K pots. I forget what caps I used. Anyway, the "Boowah" on the tone pot is a bit weak, so firstly I'd like advice on the best pot/cap to nail that. Doesn't have to be the stock values, since I've already replaced those.
Also, I use an external "stutter switch" I have connected to the leg, but if I could get that onboard, I'd prefer it. Was thinking about using a volume pot/kill switch like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Shadow-SH-124-50 ... B002XUCZI0
Any thoughts? Would it works? Is there something better? I don't mind non-stock mods.......as long as it doesn't involve cutting holes or permanent, non-reversible changes.
Overall, any suggestions?
Thanks!
- Jim
So I have a beautiful 1952 Fender Dual 8 Professional. The pots were dead when I got it, so I carefully removed (and saved!) them, and replaced them with normal guitar 250K pots. I forget what caps I used. Anyway, the "Boowah" on the tone pot is a bit weak, so firstly I'd like advice on the best pot/cap to nail that. Doesn't have to be the stock values, since I've already replaced those.
Also, I use an external "stutter switch" I have connected to the leg, but if I could get that onboard, I'd prefer it. Was thinking about using a volume pot/kill switch like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Shadow-SH-124-50 ... B002XUCZI0
Any thoughts? Would it works? Is there something better? I don't mind non-stock mods.......as long as it doesn't involve cutting holes or permanent, non-reversible changes.
Overall, any suggestions?
Thanks!
- Jim
-
- Posts: 20
- Joined: 17 Dec 2020 10:20 am
- Location: Maryland, USA
Original
Not sure what you’re looking for (boo-wah?) vs what you have now.
Here is the original diagram for that https://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtop ... a5e432c202
Here is the original diagram for that https://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtop ... a5e432c202
-
- Posts: 145
- Joined: 4 May 2016 12:53 pm
- Location: California, USA
That pot your looking at won't work. The key for what you want is in the Cap value, you need a strong cap that will get very low bass. Use a .1 mfd cap. The more modern caps like .022 or .047 just won't cut it. The 250k pot you already have should work fine as long as you can turn it with your little finger. note = all pots are not created equal....some turn easier then others.....Chris
- Jim Newberry
- Posts: 582
- Joined: 3 Jan 2007 2:47 pm
- Location: Seattle, Upper Left America
Do you give up anything with using a .1 cap instead of the .05? Is it just affecting the intensity of the change as you turn (for quicker boo-wah onset), or do you compromise anything else, like overall signal frequency content? I had mine open today and replaced a staticky paper-in-oil .047 cap (mojotone) with a .1 mallory and it just sounds a little... duller... I'm pretty sure I have 250k audio pots per John Ely's site. I'm probably just imagining a difference.
"The Masher of Touch and Tone"
-1950 Fender Dual Pro 8
-1950's Fender Dual Pro 6
-Clinesmith D8
-Clinesmith 8-string Frypan
-Clinesmith Joaquin
-~1940 National New Yorker
-~1936 Rickenbacher B6
-Homebuilt Amps
-1950 Fender Dual Pro 8
-1950's Fender Dual Pro 6
-Clinesmith D8
-Clinesmith 8-string Frypan
-Clinesmith Joaquin
-~1940 National New Yorker
-~1936 Rickenbacher B6
-Homebuilt Amps
-
- Posts: 145
- Joined: 4 May 2016 12:53 pm
- Location: California, USA
Do you give up anything with using a .1 cap instead of the .05? Is it just affecting the intensity of the change as you turn (for quicker boo-wah onset), or do you compromise anything else, like overall signal frequency content? I had mine open today and replaced a staticky paper-in-oil .047 cap (mojotone) with a .1 mallory and it just sounds a little... duller... I'm pretty sure I have 250k audio pots per John Ely's site. I'm probably just imagining a difference.
_________________
No compromise at all, when in the full on mood all 3 values will sound exactly the same, you are still able to get all the sounds you got before. It will only affect how bassy it gets when you roll it off.....Chris
- Jim Fogarty
- Posts: 1382
- Joined: 14 Dec 1999 1:01 am
- Location: Phila, Pa, USA
- Contact:
I think I might not have been clear.Chris Clem wrote:That pot your looking at won't work.
I want the correct "boo-wah" pot and cap on the TONE control. Thank you for laying that out so clearly, above.
But, I also want to put a "stutter" kill pot on the volume. The link I posted has all different values PLUS linear vs audio taper version. Don't see why a 250K linear taper kill pot shouldn't work......unless I'm missing something?
Thanks!
- Jim Fogarty
- Posts: 1382
- Joined: 14 Dec 1999 1:01 am
- Location: Phila, Pa, USA
- Contact:
.....and for the electrical numbskulls (like me!), who are interested, a.1 mfd cap is the same as a 0.1uf capacitor, and a lot easier to find with that designation.Chris Clem wrote: The key for what you want is in the Cap value, you need a strong cap that will get very low bass. Use a .1 mfd cap. The more modern caps like .022 or .047 just won't cut it.
So, from all the info here, in the schematic, and on other threads, I believe I want:
Volume - 250k linear kill pot for stutter
Tone - 1meg audio taper pot (fast turning, please!) and a 0.1uf capacitor for boo-wah.
Make sense??
- Jim Newberry
- Posts: 582
- Joined: 3 Jan 2007 2:47 pm
- Location: Seattle, Upper Left America
Thanks, Chris.Chris Clem wrote:Do you give up anything with using a .1 cap instead of the .05? Is it just affecting the intensity of the change as you turn (for quicker boo-wah onset), or do you compromise anything else, like overall signal frequency content? I had mine open today and replaced a staticky paper-in-oil .047 cap (mojotone) with a .1 mallory and it just sounds a little... duller... I'm pretty sure I have 250k audio pots per John Ely's site. I'm probably just imagining a difference.
_________________
No compromise at all, when in the full on mood all 3 values will sound exactly the same, you are still able to get all the sounds you got before. It will only affect how bassy it gets when you roll it off.....Chris
I’m deeply indebted to for you for all the amazing videos you’ve uploaded on YT. You’re my hero!
Jim
"The Masher of Touch and Tone"
-1950 Fender Dual Pro 8
-1950's Fender Dual Pro 6
-Clinesmith D8
-Clinesmith 8-string Frypan
-Clinesmith Joaquin
-~1940 National New Yorker
-~1936 Rickenbacher B6
-Homebuilt Amps
-1950 Fender Dual Pro 8
-1950's Fender Dual Pro 6
-Clinesmith D8
-Clinesmith 8-string Frypan
-Clinesmith Joaquin
-~1940 National New Yorker
-~1936 Rickenbacher B6
-Homebuilt Amps
-
- Posts: 145
- Joined: 4 May 2016 12:53 pm
- Location: California, USA
Yes I see now what your trying to do. It will work in that layout. I would just switch the taper on the pots. Use Audio on the Vol. and Linear on the Tone (If available)....ChrisSo, from all the info here, in the schematic, and on other threads, I believe I want:
Volume - 250k linear kill pot for stutter
Tone - 1meg audio taper pot (fast turning, please!) and a 0.1uf capacitor for boo-wah.
Make sense??
-
- Posts: 145
- Joined: 4 May 2016 12:53 pm
- Location: California, USA
Thanks Jim good to hear. For those who may be missing out "ha ha" on my channel....here is a link.Thanks, Chris.
I’m deeply indebted to for you for all the amazing videos you’ve uploaded on YT. You’re my hero!
Jim
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCX1Hmi ... gmQ3iMNrKQ