Excel Steels
Moderator: Shoshanah Marohn
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- Posts: 17
- Joined: 15 Sep 2020 1:00 pm
- Location: Netherlands
Excel 12 Uni 9/6 Keyless
I received my new Excel a few months ago.
Perfect (almost) instrument and satisfied with it!
Question: how can I change the strings in an easy way? What is the sequence and what to do first and what to do next?
It is very different with my GFI Uni Keyless and with the Sierra Uni.
Thank you in advance!
Thijs Kappen
The Netherlands
Perfect (almost) instrument and satisfied with it!
Question: how can I change the strings in an easy way? What is the sequence and what to do first and what to do next?
It is very different with my GFI Uni Keyless and with the Sierra Uni.
Thank you in advance!
Thijs Kappen
The Netherlands
GFI 12,E9/B6 8+6, keyless; Excel 12, E9/B6,keyless 9+7;Sierra 12, E9/B6, 8/6; Peavy amps.
Use the sequence as described on the EXCEL site. It’s a pain at first but do it a few times and it gets easier. The GFI keyless system is the best for string changing except for the need for a Phillips screwdriver.
Kevin Maul: Airline, Beard, Clinesmith, Decophonic, Evans, Excel, Fender, Fluger, Gibson, Hilton, Ibanez, Justice, K+K, Live Strings, MOYO, National, Oahu, Peterson, Quilter, Rickenbacher, Sho~Bud, Supro, TC, Ultimate, VHT, Webb, X-otic, Yamaha, ZKing.
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- Posts: 705
- Joined: 28 Apr 2005 12:01 am
- Location: Martinez, CA
Hi Thijs,
I'll try to give you a quick rundown.
First, go stretch the strings, mostly the thin wire ones.
I use a nail in a vice to hold the ball end and tug on the other end with some vice grips.
Next, hook the ball end in the headstock. Make sure the ball is seated fully.
Run the string over to the changer, and insert the end into the little tuning post. Leave some slack, but not too much so you can't wind it all up on the post.
Now you have to hold the changer finger back to take the slack out, then tune it up tight on the post with an allen wrench or steel guitar tuning key.
Then, with your third hand, tighten the black set screw. This locks the tuning post. I put the wrench in there first, and do this with my mouth. Honest.
Then snug it down when your hands are free.
Tune to pitch a the headstock.
It get's easier after a few.
I'll try to give you a quick rundown.
First, go stretch the strings, mostly the thin wire ones.
I use a nail in a vice to hold the ball end and tug on the other end with some vice grips.
Next, hook the ball end in the headstock. Make sure the ball is seated fully.
Run the string over to the changer, and insert the end into the little tuning post. Leave some slack, but not too much so you can't wind it all up on the post.
Now you have to hold the changer finger back to take the slack out, then tune it up tight on the post with an allen wrench or steel guitar tuning key.
Then, with your third hand, tighten the black set screw. This locks the tuning post. I put the wrench in there first, and do this with my mouth. Honest.
Then snug it down when your hands are free.
Tune to pitch a the headstock.
It get's easier after a few.
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- Posts: 705
- Joined: 28 Apr 2005 12:01 am
- Location: Martinez, CA
HAHA Ian!!
Yeah, the hardest part is holding the finger back.
I've often thought it would be nice to have a little gizmo that could do that for you. Like just a C shape of metal, with some rubber feet that you just slip up against the inside of the finger and the outside of the cabinet.
But if you get the lock screw close to where it actually locks the tuner, you just have to move it like a quarter turn with your chin and it will hold so you can let go and tighten it.
So hold back finger with left hand, tighten tuner to desired tension, move the wrench on the lock screw with chin. Done.
This newest system really works well. I was accidentally able to WAY overtune the low string just by using the changer end tuner. I had to go back and slack it off so that I could use the headstock tuner to bring up up to pitch.
Just proves it, Mitsuo is the man.
Yeah, the hardest part is holding the finger back.
I've often thought it would be nice to have a little gizmo that could do that for you. Like just a C shape of metal, with some rubber feet that you just slip up against the inside of the finger and the outside of the cabinet.
But if you get the lock screw close to where it actually locks the tuner, you just have to move it like a quarter turn with your chin and it will hold so you can let go and tighten it.
So hold back finger with left hand, tighten tuner to desired tension, move the wrench on the lock screw with chin. Done.
This newest system really works well. I was accidentally able to WAY overtune the low string just by using the changer end tuner. I had to go back and slack it off so that I could use the headstock tuner to bring up up to pitch.
Just proves it, Mitsuo is the man.
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- Posts: 9
- Joined: 8 May 2018 12:20 pm
- Location: New York, USA
Excel
I wrote Mitsuo Fujii an email last month and got a quick reply. I can share the link.
Phone : +81 425-36-5781
FAX : +81 425-35-3130
Mail : info@fuzzypsg.com
HP : http://www.fuzzypsg.com/
Phone : +81 425-36-5781
FAX : +81 425-35-3130
Mail : info@fuzzypsg.com
HP : http://www.fuzzypsg.com/
Scott W. Anderson
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- Posts: 9
- Joined: 8 May 2018 12:20 pm
- Location: New York, USA
Standard Copedent?
Hi Mike - I'm considering ordering a U12 with the E9/C6 lock. I emailed Mitsuo and have an idea of pricing, but I wonder if you might know a bit more about how the copedent comes set up. Is there a standard copedent he starts with? Also wondering how the knee levers are set up for access. I've seen you have 7 knee levers on your guitar - do you move your left leg into the center space when playing C6?
Thanks for your help. I'm a beginner to pedal steel, but a professional musician, so I know the value of getting a great instrument, and it looks like these might be the ones.
-Dan
Thanks for your help. I'm a beginner to pedal steel, but a professional musician, so I know the value of getting a great instrument, and it looks like these might be the ones.
-Dan
I'm a beginner with a
Dekley D10
Dekley D10
Greg Cutshaw is a good guy to ask:-
http://www.gregcutshaw.com/Excel%2012%2 ... yless.html
I have a more conventional B6/E9 model, and yes, I move my left leg to the centre if I'm totally in B6 mode.
http://www.gregcutshaw.com/Excel%2012%2 ... yless.html
I have a more conventional B6/E9 model, and yes, I move my left leg to the centre if I'm totally in B6 mode.
Make sleeping dogs tell the truth!
Homebuilt keyless U12 7x5, Excel keyless U12 8x8, Williams keyless U12 7x8, Telonics rack and 15" cabs
Homebuilt keyless U12 7x5, Excel keyless U12 8x8, Williams keyless U12 7x8, Telonics rack and 15" cabs
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- Posts: 705
- Joined: 28 Apr 2005 12:01 am
- Location: Martinez, CA
Re: Standard Copedent?
Hi Dan,Dan Fries wrote:Hi Mike - I'm considering ordering a U12 with the E9/C6 lock. I emailed Mitsuo and have an idea of pricing, but I wonder if you might know a bit more about how the copedent comes set up. Is there a standard copedent he starts with? Also wondering how the knee levers are set up for access. I've seen you have 7 knee levers on your guitar - do you move your left leg into the center space when playing C6?
Thanks for your help. I'm a beginner to pedal steel, but a professional musician, so I know the value of getting a great instrument, and it looks like these might be the ones.
-Dan
Mitsuo can put anything you want on the guitar, copedant wise. And yes, you move your left knee to the center, just like a D-10. Or a D-12 really. So anything you can dream up for a D-12 guitar, you can get on one of these.