Converting a D-10 to an SD-10 question
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- James Morehead
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Converting a D-10 to an SD-10 question
I've seen posts in the past where folks do away with the C6th neck for various reasons. Some have done this to shed weight from their guitar, to make it easier to carry.
My question is, typically, how much weight CAN be done away with by doing this?
My question is, typically, how much weight CAN be done away with by doing this?
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- James Morehead
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Thankyou for your responces. But, for what it's worth, we are hitting everywhere but an answer. Thanx for the advise, though, but I'm not even remotely interested in changing to an SD-10. If I am, I'll buy one. I'm interested in finding out how much weight you save by doing this. I just can't see weight as much of a reason, either, but I occasionally hear someone say they think it really is enough to make it worth the conversion.
Any body ever weigh the actual difference?? Bobbe, you deal in many guitars, ever weigh the difference?
Any body ever weigh the actual difference?? Bobbe, you deal in many guitars, ever weigh the difference?
- Ricky Davis
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- Mark Eaton
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Yes, the post written by the other Eaton-Jim, refers to the article in Country Music magazine awhile back where Lloyd went to Sho-Bud to convert his guitar into the first ever LDG, I believe back in 1973.
Lloyd was apparently looking through the book that he kept on session work. In the previous 600 sessions, only 5 contained any songs played on the C6th neck. I don't have the mag in front of me right now, but I believe that is what was quoted in the article.
He decided through the use of slants, he could get anything he needed from the E9th neck for pretty much all his studio work.
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Mark
Lloyd was apparently looking through the book that he kept on session work. In the previous 600 sessions, only 5 contained any songs played on the C6th neck. I don't have the mag in front of me right now, but I believe that is what was quoted in the article.
He decided through the use of slants, he could get anything he needed from the E9th neck for pretty much all his studio work.
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Mark
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- Larry Strawn
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I never actually wieghed them, but I couldn't tell much wieght difference between the Emmons SD/10 that I just sold, and an Emmons D-10 Legrande.
I think "if" I was going to convert one I'd use some other reason other than wieght.JMO
Larry
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"Fessy" S/D 12, 8/6 Hilton Pedal, Sessions 400 Ltd. Home Grown E/F Rack
"ROCKIN COUNTRY"
I think "if" I was going to convert one I'd use some other reason other than wieght.JMO
Larry
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"Fessy" S/D 12, 8/6 Hilton Pedal, Sessions 400 Ltd. Home Grown E/F Rack
"ROCKIN COUNTRY"
- Larry Strawn
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Bobby Lee,,
I was thinking more in terms of pad verses steel strings to lay arm on.
No strings to pull hair on forearms in summer time, or rusted strings to mess up shirt sleeve in winter!
Larry
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"Fessy" S/D 12, 8/6 Hilton Pedal, Sessions 400 Ltd. Home Grown E/F Rack
"ROCKIN COUNTRY"
I was thinking more in terms of pad verses steel strings to lay arm on.
No strings to pull hair on forearms in summer time, or rusted strings to mess up shirt sleeve in winter!
Larry
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"Fessy" S/D 12, 8/6 Hilton Pedal, Sessions 400 Ltd. Home Grown E/F Rack
"ROCKIN COUNTRY"
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I imagine you'd save about 15 pounds, too. You'd be losing..
1 keyhead/nut assy.
1 neck
4 or 5 pedals & brkts.
4 or 5 cross-rods
1 pickup
4 pedal-rods
10-15 pull-rods and bell-cranks
1 changer and mounts
Yep, all that would probably be about 18-20 pounds, and you'd replace that stuff with a pad that might weigh 3-4 pounds. As to whether or not you could sell the parts for as much as difference between the cost of a D10 and an S10 would depend on what kind of steel it was...it could go either way.
The real downside is that gaping hole left in the endplate.
(Of course, that <u>would</u> make a neat little place to put small drawer for your picks and bar, now, wouldn't it! )
1 keyhead/nut assy.
1 neck
4 or 5 pedals & brkts.
4 or 5 cross-rods
1 pickup
4 pedal-rods
10-15 pull-rods and bell-cranks
1 changer and mounts
Yep, all that would probably be about 18-20 pounds, and you'd replace that stuff with a pad that might weigh 3-4 pounds. As to whether or not you could sell the parts for as much as difference between the cost of a D10 and an S10 would depend on what kind of steel it was...it could go either way.
The real downside is that gaping hole left in the endplate.
(Of course, that <u>would</u> make a neat little place to put small drawer for your picks and bar, now, wouldn't it! )
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- Per Berner
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I've been toying with the idea of losing the C6 half of my Emmons p/p, which I'm halfway through refurbishing by now. On a p/p, there would be no gaping hole in the endplate, so it wouldn't look very odd. Considering the need for parts for these old guitars, I'm wondering if it could actually make financial sense to take the back neck off.
The value of the steel would drop, yes, but it's not a mint, rare collector's item. Selling a p/p neck, keyhead, pickup, fretboard, tuners, pedals, rods, changer and bellcranks would be relatively easy, and making a pad would cost very little.
But would the possible revenue from parts sales come close to compensate for the lowered value? Or could it even make a tiny profit?
It would be interesting to hear Bobbe's views on this (or anyone else's).
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´75 Emmons p/p D10 8+4, ca '72 AWH Custom D10 8+3, Hybrid Zum coming soon, Peavey Nashville 1000
The value of the steel would drop, yes, but it's not a mint, rare collector's item. Selling a p/p neck, keyhead, pickup, fretboard, tuners, pedals, rods, changer and bellcranks would be relatively easy, and making a pad would cost very little.
But would the possible revenue from parts sales come close to compensate for the lowered value? Or could it even make a tiny profit?
It would be interesting to hear Bobbe's views on this (or anyone else's).
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´75 Emmons p/p D10 8+4, ca '72 AWH Custom D10 8+3, Hybrid Zum coming soon, Peavey Nashville 1000