Pedal Steel Workstand

[David Montgomery]

Doesn't fit my Mullen D10

[Gene Tani]

Is it insufficient contact like https://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtop ... 42#2751642

[David Montgomery]

Yes, that is the same problem I am having.

I have tried several ways to make it fit. Guess I'll just have to try to modify the workstand

[Keith Bolog]

Same problem here. My workaround was to move the changer end further away, that is, support only in the middle, fearing a balancing disaster, but it was stable enough.

[Gene Tani]

Is it better if you put endplate on red felt support?

Maybe try some nonskid material there, silicone dots or... velcro. I have velcro on my Carter cabinet per John McClung's suggestion but you definitely don't want to this on Lacquer and probably not on mica.

[Al Evans]

My Mullen G2 has 1/8" outside the widest point, which has seemed sufficient for stability. I adjust the work stand to fit by putting it on top of the guitar and adjusting the stand. Then I set up the stand and turn the guitar over.



--Al Evans

[Ross Shafer]

As long as the guitar is trapped between the front and back supports allowing little or no front to back movement catching the guitar on its edge as in Al's post above should work with no probs.

As Al says, put the stand upside down on your guitar and size it to fit snugly. Modification to make for better contact is pretty simple as well.

I've had quite a few different guitars on my personal stands (which the SGF versions are copied from) and have always been able to make 'em work.

[Gene Tani]

Don't know if this helps but if you bolt on some aluminum /steel angle, you can make the vertical support longer/wider to support endplate (this is just my knee lever, 1/2" x 1" angle to show it conceptually, you would need to use at least 1"x1"



this shows how close the RP changer is to edge of cab