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Topic: Fender 400 Pickup Question |
Bill Hatcher
From:
Atlanta Ga. USA
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Posted 11 Feb 2020 3:42 pm |
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picked up a very good condition early 60s fender 400 and i am getting it back in playing shape. was able to repair the pickup with some re-soldering without having to rewind it. 8.4K reading.
the pickup had been removed from the guitar without removing the metal frame/housing it sits in. that frame must be for shielding. anyway, when you adjust the pickup height, does the bobbin move in the metal housing or should the entire assembly move as one?? the metal frame is sort of fused to the finish in the bottom of the pickup rout and will have to be broken loose if it needs to move with the pickup when adjusting.
anybody know? thx! |
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Donny Hinson
From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
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Posted 11 Feb 2020 3:55 pm
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| If you're talking about the claw "field focuser" (as I call it) of the Jaguar-style pickup, then yeah...that should be attached to and also move with the pickup. |
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Bill Hatcher
From:
Atlanta Ga. USA
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Posted 11 Feb 2020 6:05 pm
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| Donny Hinson wrote: |
| If you're talking about the claw "field focuser" (as I call it) of the Jaguar-style pickup, then yeah...that should be attached to and also move with the pickup. |
thank you sir. the coil/bobbin had been removed and the magnet wire was broken away from the solder joint that feeds the black output wire. i was able to resolder that and save a rewind. the metal claw thingy is sort of melded into the finish on the bottom of the pickup rout. i can easily pop it out with a few taps.
were there any springs or spongy black fender stuff that goes under some of the other fender guitar/bass pickups that aid in the pickup adjustment screws making the pickup go up and down, or do you find the right height and shim?
this guitar had some metal washers on each adjustment screw. doesnt look original. thanks for the info. |
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Donny Hinson
From:
Glen Burnie, Md. U.S.A.
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Posted 11 Feb 2020 8:13 pm
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| Some may use shims. I'm no expert, but I think most techs would prefer to just use springs or sponge rubber to facilitate adjustments. That way, you could adjust without any disassembly, since different string sets might call for some tone or volume tweaks. |
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Bill Hatcher
From:
Atlanta Ga. USA
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Posted 11 Feb 2020 9:06 pm
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found out what happened. someone removed the coil from the metal shield. the shield is soldered to the ground side of the bottom of the pickup. this tore the wire away and shorted out the pickup. i was able to resolder the pickup and complete the windings again. i am not going to chance resoldering the metal shield. going to run a separate wire to ground for it.
will also decide what to do about the adjustment. thanks for your help. |
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Jim Sliff
From:
Lawndale California, USA
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Posted 4 Mar 2020 1:25 pm
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Fender pedal steel pickups all have a foam pad under them and are not designed to be height adjustable. Over the years the foam on every one I've worked on has become hard/stiff. I suggest replacing it with any kind of foam that will allow you to adjust the height using the mounting screws.
And even on the short-scale models with the Jaguar-type "claw" pickup I shield the control cavity and area under the pickup with copped tape that has conductive adhesive. You need to solder a ground wire to the tape or it will act like an antenna instead, but properly grounded shielding helps cut down on noise from outside sources without affecting tone (like having the pickup rewound as a stacked humbucker would).
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No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional |
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