Several parts left over that I want to sell. Not building any more steels. Would like to sell the whole lot and would make a good deal to someone.
Parts:
10 String Changer* 3up/3down $100.00 SOLD
12 string Changer* 3up/3down $120.00 SOLD
Pedal Bar Blank (U Sizeit) $75.00
3 pairs Pedal Bar adapter** $50.00/pair SOLD
* Adjustable return springs for changers
** 1 1/2" channel
Would consider a trade for Evans Amp. Let's talk
Extra Builder Parts
Extra Builder Parts
Last edited by Sam Lewis on 20 Nov 2019 5:07 pm, edited 1 time in total.
SL D-10, SL U-12,SL SD-10, Custom Tele w/B bender, Steel King, TC300 Effects, Goodrich H-10K pedal, Fender V/T Pedal, Hilton Pedal Elite seat.
- Patrick Huey
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- Location: Nacogdoches, Texas, USA
Re: Extra Builder Parts
Sam I know someone looking feverishly for a 12 string changerSam Lewis wrote:Several parts left over that I want to sell. Not building any more steels. Would like to sell the whole lot and would make a good deal to someone.
Parts:
10 String Changer* 3up/3down $100.00
12 string Changer* 3up/3down $120.00
Pedal Bar Blank (U Sizeit) $75.00
3 pairs Pedal Bar adapter** $50.00/pair
* Adjustable return springs for changers
** 1 1/2" channel
Would consider a trade for Evans Amp. Let's talk
Pre RP Mullen D10 8/7, Zum 3/4, Carter S-10 3/4, previous Cougar SD-10 3/4 & GFI S-10 3/4, Fender Steel King, 2 Peavey Session 500's, Peavey Nashville 400, Boss DD-3, Profex-II, Hilton Digital Sustain, '88 Les Paul Custom,Epiphone MBIBG J-45, Fender Strat & Tele's, Takamine acoustics, Marshall amps, Boss effects, Ibanez Tube Screamer, and it all started with an old cranky worn out Kay acoustic you could slide a Mack truck between the strings and fretboard on!!
- Patrick Huey
- Posts: 738
- Joined: 7 Nov 2014 8:38 am
- Location: Nacogdoches, Texas, USA
Sam I sent you a PM sir
Pre RP Mullen D10 8/7, Zum 3/4, Carter S-10 3/4, previous Cougar SD-10 3/4 & GFI S-10 3/4, Fender Steel King, 2 Peavey Session 500's, Peavey Nashville 400, Boss DD-3, Profex-II, Hilton Digital Sustain, '88 Les Paul Custom,Epiphone MBIBG J-45, Fender Strat & Tele's, Takamine acoustics, Marshall amps, Boss effects, Ibanez Tube Screamer, and it all started with an old cranky worn out Kay acoustic you could slide a Mack truck between the strings and fretboard on!!
- Dan Auldridge
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- Joined: 22 Aug 2014 11:43 am
- Location: Poteet Tx. USA
parts
hello Sam, I sent you a pm
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Thank you from saving me from a total loss. Because Bentley insisted on a shelf, against my wishes, (endplates had cut for shelf)- this pushed the neck forward to the front. He used wood screws down from the top style pillow blocks so it was not an issue.Your bolt up from underneath into Pillow Blocks- the real deal- ended up with the front bolts passing through the inside edge of the apron. Had the guitar been centered as I wished, with no shelf, this would not have been an issue. My Dekley is the same width & CENTERED, so bolting the pillow blocks is easy. I am trying to attach photos to show the 4.25†10-32 bolt I made, and a support plate on the underside of the apron to receive the bolts. I raised the pillow blocks 7/16†with a Maple scrap leftover from making cabinets for Bentley.
Do you have any extra string fingers? 3 of them have drill chatter at the drill bit entry for the axle hole. This reduced the width of clean bore in the finger, on 2 of them; a little less than a third of the bore was lost to drill chatter and there is no apparent compromise of function.
On the third, the drill chatter was on both sides and what remains of the inner bore, about 1/3rd, is off centered. I hoped for the best since the fingers & washer were a snug fit when I compressed the pillow blocks with a clamp.
I forgot about this by the time had everything re-rodded and started fine tuning. I was having an issue with E-s hanging on pull ( I could hear it ) and hanging on return. I overcame the return by cranking the return spring full tight, but I could still hear something on pull. I double checked for binding in the undercarriage but all was free. Last I looked at the changer & behold #8 E has twisted- looking down on it: front to left/rear to right- tight in front, open in the back (see photo showing open in the back about 0.04. I suspect this is the finger that had drill chatter on both sides, with less than 1/3rd of bore and what remains is off center.
If you have any spares, I need one that is 0.12 from the inside of the bore to the top of the finger. This is because the fingers that came on the changer are different sizes from the top of the bore to the top of the finger.
One is 0.10, three are 0.11, three are 0.12, two are 0.13, & four are 0.14. I installed them in descending order so the 0.10 is my 0.54W E string & the 0.14 is my 0.12 F#. 0.11 or 0.12 spare will not affect the descending order.
I should be able to remove only the pull rods to the offending finger, then unbolt the Pillow block with 1.5†10-32, weasel off 3 fingers, and swap 4th with replacement
Or can you make a replacement for me?
Thank you for your time,
Stephen
Do you have any extra string fingers? 3 of them have drill chatter at the drill bit entry for the axle hole. This reduced the width of clean bore in the finger, on 2 of them; a little less than a third of the bore was lost to drill chatter and there is no apparent compromise of function.
On the third, the drill chatter was on both sides and what remains of the inner bore, about 1/3rd, is off centered. I hoped for the best since the fingers & washer were a snug fit when I compressed the pillow blocks with a clamp.
I forgot about this by the time had everything re-rodded and started fine tuning. I was having an issue with E-s hanging on pull ( I could hear it ) and hanging on return. I overcame the return by cranking the return spring full tight, but I could still hear something on pull. I double checked for binding in the undercarriage but all was free. Last I looked at the changer & behold #8 E has twisted- looking down on it: front to left/rear to right- tight in front, open in the back (see photo showing open in the back about 0.04. I suspect this is the finger that had drill chatter on both sides, with less than 1/3rd of bore and what remains is off center.
If you have any spares, I need one that is 0.12 from the inside of the bore to the top of the finger. This is because the fingers that came on the changer are different sizes from the top of the bore to the top of the finger.
One is 0.10, three are 0.11, three are 0.12, two are 0.13, & four are 0.14. I installed them in descending order so the 0.10 is my 0.54W E string & the 0.14 is my 0.12 F#. 0.11 or 0.12 spare will not affect the descending order.
I should be able to remove only the pull rods to the offending finger, then unbolt the Pillow block with 1.5†10-32, weasel off 3 fingers, and swap 4th with replacement
Or can you make a replacement for me?
Thank you for your time,
Stephen
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