Making replacement Sho-Bud cross shafts
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- Igor Fiksman
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- Location: Georgia, USA
Making replacement Sho-Bud cross shafts
Does anyone know what process was used to attach the flat bar pieces to the 5/16" round cross shafts of older Sho-Buds? It appears that a 5/16" hole was drilled in the flat bar stock piece, then a steel shaft was inserted through it and then secured by some type of weld or solder process to be held in place. Metal substance appears to pool very neatly around the point of attachment and has yellowish metallic tint to it, there's also no evidence of heat marks, so it makes me think that it wasn't likely to be a stick or wire welder. If anyone knows, please share your wisdom.
SHO-BUD Professional SD-10 Black, SHO-BUD Pro III Custom D-10 Red, Goodrich Matchbox 6A, Steeler's Choice seat, Quilter Steelaire Amps.
- Johnny Cox
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- Barry Coker
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- Brian Hollands
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Brazing
I have worked on a few and found them to be Brazed to the shaft.
- Igor Fiksman
- Posts: 173
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Barry,I've braised copper parts before, and joint looks very similar to that to my eye as well. Yellowish nature of the metal around a joint sort of points to that as well, since most welding consumables leave silver looking pools. I didn't realize braising
existed for steel.
existed for steel.
SHO-BUD Professional SD-10 Black, SHO-BUD Pro III Custom D-10 Red, Goodrich Matchbox 6A, Steeler's Choice seat, Quilter Steelaire Amps.
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Very easy to do with a decent wire feed welder.. I have made a bunch of them before with 5/16 mild steel rod and flat stock..All you need is a few good drill bits, a bench grinder and welder... Hell of a lot of work though, and the "store bought" ones look better... bob
I'm over the hill and hittin'rocks on the way down!
no gear list for me.. you don't have the time......
no gear list for me.. you don't have the time......
- Barry Coker
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If the connecting seam has a yellowish color it may very well be Braised. Steel can be braised but the arc welding esp. TIG is much stronger. I have made a couple of these with a MIG (Wirer welder) but it is a lot of work to clean up and make look good.
Barry
Barry
Zum-D-10, Webb 614-E, 65 Pro Reverb, Evans RE200, 69 Gibson Birdland, 89 Telecaster EAD Bad!!
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Making repalcement Sho-Bud cross shafts
I built a steel in 1968-69 and used a Sho-Bud cross shaft for ideas on how to build my Cross Shafts. I drilled and brazed the pedal rod lever to the cross shaft. Filed a flat spot the length of the shaft where the set screws lock the Bell cranks. And 50 years later they are still working great.
Brazing with a Acetylene/Oxygen torch is a very easy and efficient way to attach small light weight steel parts together. Clamp or Jig to hold parts. Heat the parts till they turn red, Apply flux and melt some bronze rod in to form a smooth strong joint.
Bronze acts very much like using lead solder but at a higher temperature to "tin" the parts to be connected.
Brazing with a Acetylene/Oxygen torch is a very easy and efficient way to attach small light weight steel parts together. Clamp or Jig to hold parts. Heat the parts till they turn red, Apply flux and melt some bronze rod in to form a smooth strong joint.
Bronze acts very much like using lead solder but at a higher temperature to "tin" the parts to be connected.
-
- Posts: 6965
- Joined: 26 Dec 2003 1:01 am
- Location: Candor, New York, USA
Re: Making repalcement Sho-Bud cross shafts
Yes brazing is a good method, and perfectly strong enough, but it takes a lot more skill to braze properly, than to use a wire welder...Bobby D. Jones wrote:I built a steel in 1968-69 and used a Sho-Bud cross shaft for ideas on how to build my Cross Shafts. I drilled and brazed the pedal rod lever to the cross shaft. Filed a flat spot the length of the shaft where the set screws lock the Bell cranks. And 50 years later they are still working great.
Brazing with a Acetylene/Oxygen torch is a very easy and efficient way to attach small light weight steel parts together. Clamp or Jig to hold parts. Heat the parts till they turn red, Apply flux and melt some bronze rod in to form a smooth strong joint.
Bronze acts very much like using lead solder but at a higher temperature to "tin" the parts to be connected.
I'm over the hill and hittin'rocks on the way down!
no gear list for me.. you don't have the time......
no gear list for me.. you don't have the time......