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Topic: Making replacement Sho-Bud cross shafts |
Igor Fiksman
From:
Georgia, USA
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Posted 25 Oct 2019 3:13 pm |
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Does anyone know what process was used to attach the flat bar pieces to the 5/16" round cross shafts of older Sho-Buds? It appears that a 5/16" hole was drilled in the flat bar stock piece, then a steel shaft was inserted through it and then secured by some type of weld or solder process to be held in place. Metal substance appears to pool very neatly around the point of attachment and has yellowish metallic tint to it, there's also no evidence of heat marks, so it makes me think that it wasn't likely to be a stick or wire welder. If anyone knows, please share your wisdom.
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SHO-BUD Professional SD-10 Black, SHO-BUD Pro III Custom D-10 Red, Goodrich Matchbox 6A, Steeler's Choice seat, Quilter Steelaire Amps. |
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Johnny Cox
From:
Williamsom WVA, raised in Nashville TN, Lives in Hallettsville Texas
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Posted 25 Oct 2019 3:44 pm
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Spot welded.
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Johnny "Dumplin" Cox
"YANKIN' STRINGS & STOMPIN' PEDALS" since 1967. |
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Barry Coker
From:
Bagley Alabama, USA
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Posted 25 Oct 2019 4:21 pm
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The process is called TIG and is preformed with special equipment and a VERY skilled welder. TIG is called the King of all welding processes.
Barry
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Zum-D-10, Webb 614-E, 65 Pro Reverb, Evans RE200, 69 Gibson Birdland, 89 Telecaster EAD Bad!! |
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Brian Hollands
From:
Geneva, FL USA
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Posted 25 Oct 2019 4:25 pm
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Looks more like oxy-acetylene to me but any process would work unless your aim is a replica part.
Actually it almost looks brazed but I've never done that other than on copper pipe so I can't be sure.
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'81 Sho-bud LDG, 2 EMCI's |
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Jimmie Hudson
From:
North Carolina, USA
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Posted 25 Oct 2019 5:24 pm Brazing
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| I have worked on a few and found them to be Brazed to the shaft. |
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Igor Fiksman
From:
Georgia, USA
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Posted 25 Oct 2019 5:40 pm
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Barry,I've braised copper parts before, and joint looks very similar to that to my eye as well. Yellowish nature of the metal around a joint sort of points to that as well, since most welding consumables leave silver looking pools. I didn't realize braising
existed for steel.
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SHO-BUD Professional SD-10 Black, SHO-BUD Pro III Custom D-10 Red, Goodrich Matchbox 6A, Steeler's Choice seat, Quilter Steelaire Amps. |
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Bob Carlucci
From:
Candor, New York, USA
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Posted 26 Oct 2019 12:47 am
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Very easy to do with a decent wire feed welder.. I have made a bunch of them before with 5/16 mild steel rod and flat stock..All you need is a few good drill bits, a bench grinder and welder... Hell of a lot of work though, and the "store bought" ones look better... bob
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I'm over the hill and hittin'rocks on the way down!
no gear list for me.. you don't have the time...... |
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Barry Coker
From:
Bagley Alabama, USA
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Posted 26 Oct 2019 11:49 am
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If the connecting seam has a yellowish color it may very well be Braised. Steel can be braised but the arc welding esp. TIG is much stronger. I have made a couple of these with a MIG (Wirer welder) but it is a lot of work to clean up and make look good.
Barry
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Zum-D-10, Webb 614-E, 65 Pro Reverb, Evans RE200, 69 Gibson Birdland, 89 Telecaster EAD Bad!! |
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Bobby D. Jones
From:
West Virginia, USA
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Posted 27 Oct 2019 7:40 pm Making repalcement Sho-Bud cross shafts
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I built a steel in 1968-69 and used a Sho-Bud cross shaft for ideas on how to build my Cross Shafts. I drilled and brazed the pedal rod lever to the cross shaft. Filed a flat spot the length of the shaft where the set screws lock the Bell cranks. And 50 years later they are still working great.
Brazing with a Acetylene/Oxygen torch is a very easy and efficient way to attach small light weight steel parts together. Clamp or Jig to hold parts. Heat the parts till they turn red, Apply flux and melt some bronze rod in to form a smooth strong joint.
Bronze acts very much like using lead solder but at a higher temperature to "tin" the parts to be connected. |
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Bob Carlucci
From:
Candor, New York, USA
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Posted 28 Oct 2019 4:38 am Re: Making repalcement Sho-Bud cross shafts
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| Bobby D. Jones wrote: |
I built a steel in 1968-69 and used a Sho-Bud cross shaft for ideas on how to build my Cross Shafts. I drilled and brazed the pedal rod lever to the cross shaft. Filed a flat spot the length of the shaft where the set screws lock the Bell cranks. And 50 years later they are still working great.
Brazing with a Acetylene/Oxygen torch is a very easy and efficient way to attach small light weight steel parts together. Clamp or Jig to hold parts. Heat the parts till they turn red, Apply flux and melt some bronze rod in to form a smooth strong joint.
Bronze acts very much like using lead solder but at a higher temperature to "tin" the parts to be connected. |
Yes brazing is a good method, and perfectly strong enough, but it takes a lot more skill to braze properly, than to use a wire welder...
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I'm over the hill and hittin'rocks on the way down!
no gear list for me.. you don't have the time...... |
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