Counsel on likely value of 1/3 of a '50s Stringmaster?
Moderator: Brad Bechtel
-
- Posts: 23
- Joined: 23 Oct 2011 6:55 pm
- Location: SW USA
Counsel on likely value of 1/3 of a '50s Stringmaster?
I've potential opp'ty on most of the necessary to fabricate a single 8 out of parts; pix below show what's included. The missing elements [pots/wiring harness/selector/jack] aren't [to me] daunting to find, esp if one didn't care about correct pot-dates/cloth wire/blah blah. It'd be a player.
Any/all thoughts on likely fair value appreciated.
[/img]
Any/all thoughts on likely fair value appreciated.
[/img]
- Greg Moynihan
- Posts: 50
- Joined: 12 Jun 2013 8:02 pm
- Location: Bremerton, Washington, USA
I think a fair ballpark for a nice vintage 8-string fender in good shape with most all the original parts is seven to eight hundred per neck, at least, for the single- and double-neck instruments. Triples and quads are more work to haul around and therefore less desirable, so those sell for a good bit less per neck on average.
When this project is complete, of course, it will be nowhere near the original configuration, so I'd say, cut that number in half. If these parts were assembled and finished well, and the result was a nice, playable Fender-stein, you'd have an instrument worth 350-400. Those unfinished parts would be a good deal if they were available to you for 250 or less, IMHO. If you pay more than 300 for those parts, I'd say you were doing the seller a bit of a favor.
It's nice to see this tuner pan was never drilled through, it totally irritates me to find great old Fender hardware scarred by that particular modification.
When this project is complete, of course, it will be nowhere near the original configuration, so I'd say, cut that number in half. If these parts were assembled and finished well, and the result was a nice, playable Fender-stein, you'd have an instrument worth 350-400. Those unfinished parts would be a good deal if they were available to you for 250 or less, IMHO. If you pay more than 300 for those parts, I'd say you were doing the seller a bit of a favor.
It's nice to see this tuner pan was never drilled through, it totally irritates me to find great old Fender hardware scarred by that particular modification.
Generally, they seem to be worth more as parts than as complete instruments so you will be reducing its value by assembling it
If course, if you decide to sell it again, you can take it to bits.
The individual parts are probably worth:
Tuner pan $150
Pickups $50 each
Nut $30
Control plate $75
Body with fretboard $50
So the parts are probably worth about $400
Even if everything was in perfect condition, an orphaned Stringmaster neck would never be worth as much an actual single neck Fender Deluxe. They go for about $800 in good condition with legs and a case - quite a bit less for a refin without legs and case
So I'd reckon still around $400 for what you have once it's finished.
However, it's unusual to get all the parts you need coming up at once and it will certainly be a great sounding guitar when it's all together. Looks like a nice bit of wood too - will you leave it natural? (I would).
BTW - you won't need a selecter switch, of course, just volume tone and a blend pot. There are a couple of bridge covers on Ebay right now if you want to complete the hardware.
If course, if you decide to sell it again, you can take it to bits.
The individual parts are probably worth:
Tuner pan $150
Pickups $50 each
Nut $30
Control plate $75
Body with fretboard $50
So the parts are probably worth about $400
Even if everything was in perfect condition, an orphaned Stringmaster neck would never be worth as much an actual single neck Fender Deluxe. They go for about $800 in good condition with legs and a case - quite a bit less for a refin without legs and case
So I'd reckon still around $400 for what you have once it's finished.
However, it's unusual to get all the parts you need coming up at once and it will certainly be a great sounding guitar when it's all together. Looks like a nice bit of wood too - will you leave it natural? (I would).
BTW - you won't need a selecter switch, of course, just volume tone and a blend pot. There are a couple of bridge covers on Ebay right now if you want to complete the hardware.
Last edited by Jeff Mead on 5 Nov 2015 11:55 am, edited 1 time in total.
- Erv Niehaus
- Posts: 26797
- Joined: 10 Aug 2001 12:01 am
- Location: Litchfield, MN, USA
- chris ivey
- Posts: 12703
- Joined: 8 Nov 1998 1:01 am
- Location: california (deceased)
By the way - are you sure it's 1/3 of a Stringmaster and not 1/2 or 1/4?
How thick is the body?
Any pencil dates in the tuner pan cavity?
I can see it's a front neck so, if it is 2.25" thick (which is my guess from the picture), it could equally be from a double or a triple (unless you know the actual history).
If it's 2.625" thick it's from a quad.
Of course, if you're sure the hardware is from the same instrument it's from a triple or quad depending on thickness.
Actually, it looks like the slightly bigger sibling of my next Stringmaster restoration (also an orphan).
How thick is the body?
Any pencil dates in the tuner pan cavity?
I can see it's a front neck so, if it is 2.25" thick (which is my guess from the picture), it could equally be from a double or a triple (unless you know the actual history).
If it's 2.625" thick it's from a quad.
Of course, if you're sure the hardware is from the same instrument it's from a triple or quad depending on thickness.
Actually, it looks like the slightly bigger sibling of my next Stringmaster restoration (also an orphan).
-
- Posts: 23
- Joined: 23 Oct 2011 6:55 pm
- Location: SW USA
Thanks to all for the info. I've not seen the parts in person, just email pix.
I'd likely do a variant of what Jeff Mead suggested. I had a Tele [now my elder son's] setup with a vol pot, no selector, just a double-gang stereo pan-pot in the tone pot position that rolls one pickup up & the other down as it turns. It works quite well on that particular Tele. Seems like more work than I want to take on right now though. Thanks again!
I'd likely do a variant of what Jeff Mead suggested. I had a Tele [now my elder son's] setup with a vol pot, no selector, just a double-gang stereo pan-pot in the tone pot position that rolls one pickup up & the other down as it turns. It works quite well on that particular Tele. Seems like more work than I want to take on right now though. Thanks again!
-
- Posts: 309
- Joined: 10 Sep 2005 12:01 am
- Stephen Cowell
- Posts: 2875
- Joined: 6 Jan 2012 8:13 am
- Location: Round Rock, Texas, USA
Pickups with covers are $100 apiece... make sure they have an ohms reading. The other parts are pretty degraded... they were originally shiny chrome.
Don't pay more than $500 for it... otherwise, you could buy a D8 and make two of them. Beat-up D8's go for about $1000.
Don't pay more than $500 for it... otherwise, you could buy a D8 and make two of them. Beat-up D8's go for about $1000.
New FB Page: Lap Steel Licks And Stuff: https://www.facebook.com/groups/195394851800329
-
- Posts: 23
- Joined: 23 Oct 2011 6:55 pm
- Location: SW USA
"Those pickups are designed to work as a single humbucker with a blend, not as a typical 2 pickup configuration"
I'm no expert here, but the '57 Deluxe [single] Fender 8 I have [similar to Gabby's] has a wheel that pans between the pots. Works fine. Unsure if/how that's different from what I'd have done to this'n with a pan-pot setup in place of tone ctrl, Jeff Mead?
I had it in my head momentarily that if acquired inexpensively and made to work/sound well, it'd have been a good "knock-around" lap steel [forget the legs]. I'm over it, just interested if/how the "pan pot" thing isn't a viable thing since my Deluxe has that wheel [under the bridge cover] that seems clearly original?
I'm no expert here, but the '57 Deluxe [single] Fender 8 I have [similar to Gabby's] has a wheel that pans between the pots. Works fine. Unsure if/how that's different from what I'd have done to this'n with a pan-pot setup in place of tone ctrl, Jeff Mead?
I had it in my head momentarily that if acquired inexpensively and made to work/sound well, it'd have been a good "knock-around" lap steel [forget the legs]. I'm over it, just interested if/how the "pan pot" thing isn't a viable thing since my Deluxe has that wheel [under the bridge cover] that seems clearly original?
-
- Posts: 23
- Joined: 23 Oct 2011 6:55 pm
- Location: SW USA
Thanks, Jeff. I erroneously assumed it was a pan-pot. What's on the Tele I mentioned is a true, double-ganged pan pot, so one pickup fades up as the other fades down. A good-working alternative to a tone ctrl that just rolls off high end, on that particular instrument. Appreciate clarification of that wheel's function on my Dlx 8!
-
- Posts: 156
- Joined: 8 Mar 2011 7:17 pm
- Location: New Jersey, USA
Hi folks, I was poking around the forum reading up on Stringmaster posts when I came across this thread. I recognized that single orphan neck! I purchased it on ebay and decided that since the damage was done, I would do a poor man's custom finish rather than a full restoration. Oh and it's LEFT HANDED of course!
I tried to keep the cost down on the project since the seller didn't budge too much on the price.
First, I added a third socket hole and sank the original two just a bit deeper to accommodate a set of newer Sills leg sockets I already had. I also had some nice light airline legs from another project.
I stripped the many remnants of paint/lacquer and went with a simple rustic Home Depot Minwax finish.
I used Mother's polish to clean all the parts that still had chrome on them. I greased up the tuners and put it all back in place. The fret-board had a coat of lacquer too that was a mess to get off. Most of it anyway.
My nephew powder coated the control plate which was previously stripped of chrome. I added vol/tone holes. The pickups are original and they tested as stated in the ebay ad at 8+ ohms each. I added new pots for tone/vol and pickup blender.
I also decided to use an Electro socket Jack cup instead of the original.
To go with the rustic cowboy theme I bought assorted cowboy cochos and some thread rod from Home Depot to cover the factory holes used to bolt these necks together. I can't make up my mind on the copper ones pictured or chrome Texas stars in honor of Bob Wills. It's like picking out a tie.
This turned out to be a really nice left handed console/lap steel guitar. It is like an old friend, sounds great and is a treat to play.
I tried to keep the cost down on the project since the seller didn't budge too much on the price.
First, I added a third socket hole and sank the original two just a bit deeper to accommodate a set of newer Sills leg sockets I already had. I also had some nice light airline legs from another project.
I stripped the many remnants of paint/lacquer and went with a simple rustic Home Depot Minwax finish.
I used Mother's polish to clean all the parts that still had chrome on them. I greased up the tuners and put it all back in place. The fret-board had a coat of lacquer too that was a mess to get off. Most of it anyway.
My nephew powder coated the control plate which was previously stripped of chrome. I added vol/tone holes. The pickups are original and they tested as stated in the ebay ad at 8+ ohms each. I added new pots for tone/vol and pickup blender.
I also decided to use an Electro socket Jack cup instead of the original.
To go with the rustic cowboy theme I bought assorted cowboy cochos and some thread rod from Home Depot to cover the factory holes used to bolt these necks together. I can't make up my mind on the copper ones pictured or chrome Texas stars in honor of Bob Wills. It's like picking out a tie.
This turned out to be a really nice left handed console/lap steel guitar. It is like an old friend, sounds great and is a treat to play.
Last edited by Mark Addeo on 26 Jan 2016 7:06 am, edited 4 times in total.
-
- Posts: 156
- Joined: 8 Mar 2011 7:17 pm
- Location: New Jersey, USA
Hi Jeff, I saw those diamonds. Very impressive. They look real crisp and perfectly cut. I considered your idea and maybe some nice tortoise shell but since the front of my "now lefty" steel was clean and didn't have any screw holes I would try something easier. The back used to be the front and it does have screw holes for large diamonds though but I figured no one would see them but me.
-
- Posts: 285
- Joined: 23 Mar 2004 1:01 am
- Location: Mexico City, Mexico
- Contact:
Hi guys!
First post in years. Just thought I'd update everyone on the current location of this very same neck. A few weeks ago I bought it off reverb as a working single neck Stringmaster. I just recently brought it home with me to Mexico City. I went ahead and bought a new neckplate and bridge cover. Also added some extra telecaster knobs I had lain around:
Gigged it last Friday and everyone was blown away by the tone and mojo of this instrument. Here's some pics:
First post in years. Just thought I'd update everyone on the current location of this very same neck. A few weeks ago I bought it off reverb as a working single neck Stringmaster. I just recently brought it home with me to Mexico City. I went ahead and bought a new neckplate and bridge cover. Also added some extra telecaster knobs I had lain around:
Gigged it last Friday and everyone was blown away by the tone and mojo of this instrument. Here's some pics:
-
- Posts: 156
- Joined: 8 Mar 2011 7:17 pm
- Location: New Jersey, USA
Single
Hi Kiyoshi, glad to see that neck back in action! I had made a lefty single from that. Then I did a lefty D8 and sold the single neck. Not surprised that it sounds great. I recall that being from the mid 50’s. Best of luck with it. I missed having a single 8 and recently made another lefty without legs or sockets. Stringmasters are the best! Enjoy!
Last edited by Mark Addeo on 30 Sep 2019 3:39 pm, edited 1 time in total.
-
- Posts: 285
- Joined: 23 Mar 2004 1:01 am
- Location: Mexico City, Mexico
- Contact:
Thanks for the comments!Jeff Mead wrote:Hi Kiyoshi,
Wow! Those neck plates are really hard to find. You got lucky.
I would have put it in the correct location though - closest to the player, or at least the right way round (so it's right way up to the player) but maybe I'm too obsessive
Love those orphan stringmasters.
Im not sure I understand how you mean... The neck plate only fits one way. The guitar has been "leftified" by Mark, so the plug is in what is (for me) the front of the guitar, but there's no other way for the neck plate or anything to be mounted. The leg sockets have been switched around so it can be played the right way around.
EDIT: maybe I'm causing the confusion, I think I meant the BRIDGE PLATE, not neck plate...
Oh, you meant the bridge cover I think - that's fine. I meant the little plate with Fender written on it which is in the right place if it were a left handed guitar but it upside down and on the wrong side of a right handed guitar.Kiyoshi Osawa wrote:
EDIT: maybe I'm causing the confusion, I think I meant the BRIDGE PLATE, not neck plate...
It should be here...
-
- Posts: 285
- Joined: 23 Mar 2004 1:01 am
- Location: Mexico City, Mexico
- Contact:
Hi everyone!
Just wanted to update this post with some recent developments. After exchanging messages privately, Mark was kind enough to send over a couple of diamond rod covers!
I am so grateful for this kind gesture and for this forum where we can all share our passion for these instruments. Thank you so much Mark. what a great way to pay it forward!
Just wanted to update this post with some recent developments. After exchanging messages privately, Mark was kind enough to send over a couple of diamond rod covers!
I am so grateful for this kind gesture and for this forum where we can all share our passion for these instruments. Thank you so much Mark. what a great way to pay it forward!
-
- Posts: 156
- Joined: 8 Mar 2011 7:17 pm
- Location: New Jersey, USA