Sho-Bud Restoration Question

Ernest Cawby · Post by **Ernest Cawby** » 28 Jan 2006 7:50 pm

The finish on this guitar is as come from the factory in Feb. 1973, nothing has ever been done to the finish, just tender loving care.
THANKS LEON It sure looks good.

Going to Ken fox's tomorrow to get my Vegas 400 updated with Peavey parts, 17 replacement parts to be put in. Factory mod. supposed to improve the mid range and the lows. If it is any better than it sounds now it will be something else.

ernie

Ernest Cawby · Post by **Ernest Cawby** » 28 Jan 2006 7:53 pm

I forgot to add this is what $1000.00 worth of Coop parts looks like.
If you want to redo your Professional this is what it cost to buy his poarts. Or that is what I had to pay, and he kept my old parts, still in good shape. Just wanted a modern guitar.

ernie

Ricky Davis · Post by **Ricky Davis** » 29 Jan 2006 12:15 pm

<SMALL>There is quite a lot of tweaking to do to get it playing smoothly. Apparently the $1000.00 Ernie paid John Coop didn’t include raise helper springs. I’ll put some of mine on and this should help to smooth the action. With out the helper spring, it plays tough.</SMALL>

Leon; did you ask Coop about the Helper springs?? If the fingers are mounted properly and the crossbars are mounted properly; you don't need helper springs(although I like them to help time some fingers aginst the other unison pull on some)and I'm sure he'll send you some; as it may of been a small oversight(it's not like he doesn't have a bazzillion things going at once..ha.).
But that little statement of apparently a 1000.00 bucks doesn't include helper springs is a childish stab.
There is a lot of tweaking to do to get it to play smooth and without helper springs; it plays Tough; is another mis-leading statement; because like I said about> if the fingers are mounted properly and the crossbars are mounted proper; so that there is no binding in the movement; so that everything moves freely and silky smooth; then when you string it up and put rods in; there is NO tuffness at all.
If I were you; I'd back the rods out; and make sure all crossbars are not binding and the fingers move proper; and if there is any tension at all; check the mounting again.
Ernest; this is NOT what a 1000 dollars worth of Coop parts looks like; You have NO idea what's in there and the amount of precision machining and precise(to the 1000'ths)fitting and countless hours and cost of chroming; that goes into a 1000 dollars worth of parts. You think this stuff is just widdled out of metal with a freakin' chisle and hacksaw; you are dead wrong. John coop's parts are far superior to anything made. I've already put this mechanism in several steels and it is as smooth as butter and very possitive action; wheather it has helper springs or not; so I'm here to attest the greatness that I know of these parts in my working with them and you got close to 2000.00 dollars worth of countless hours of design and machining and chroming and polishing, done in a few months; when it usually takes close to a year.
And your old parts are probably in the trash out back; is where they belong.
Ricky

James Morehead · Post by **James Morehead** » 29 Jan 2006 9:38 pm

I wouldn't rush my heart surgeon, brain surgeon, or my steel guitar machinist/mechanic. If you send your guitar to your favorite steel machinist whether it be Duayne, Bobbe, Leon, or John, or some I've not met yet, because you think he is faster and cheaper, you really are missing the point of restoration.

I sent out my guitar to whom I did, because I felt he could deliver the quality and fine craftsmanship I want and expect, and I don't intend to rush him. If I rushed him, it would be unfair to expect a quality job, now wouldn't it, and I would really be interfering with their work!

It will get done when it gets done, if you want it correct. If you have faith in your favorite guy to send your guitar to him in the first place it should be worth the wait. Understanding their circumstances, whom ever it might be working on your axe, will help you have the patience to wait and allow them to do the best job they possibly can.

George Ross · Post by **George Ross** » 31 Jan 2006 6:44 am

I'm about half way through a refurbishing of the mechanics on my Professional using Coop's parts. Thus far I'm really glad that I went this way and I'm having a ball doing the work myself. It's not rocket science, by the way. It just takes patience, time and handyman skill working with tools.

It's true that John's parts are expensive but like Ricky says above they are absolutely tops in quality. In my opinion the original mechanics on these old Professionals was never in the same class as the beautiful wood finish work and tone. John's parts remedy that, and my hat's off to him for investing what must have been a lot of time and energy into creating them.

Ernest Cawby · Post by **Ernest Cawby** » 31 Jan 2006 5:13 pm

Thanks george for your message, Leon has mine together, picking it up Sunday, he has some tweaking to do. If it plays 1/2 as good as the Pro 1 he did for me I will be a happy camper. This Pro 1 with his alum parts is the best playing guitar I have ever played.

ernie

Ernest Cawby · Post by **Ernest Cawby** » 5 Feb 2006 8:38 pm

Picked upmy Professional today, played it about 20 min. must get use to the pedals and levers different feel. Also after playing a singe for a while it is different that way, as for as reach.
John the parts look very good, my grandson looked at it as was amazed at how good it looked, he is hard to please.
I am glad this is over and it is nice to look at and play, hope to get to play it much more tomorrow nite.
Every one these parts sure looks like th answer to the shobud problem for parts.

ernie