Building pedal steel

Instruments, mechanical issues, copedents, techniques, etc.

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Ian Rae
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Post by Ian Rae »

I always assumed that round ends on square shafts were done on a lathe with a 4-jaw chuck.
Make sleeping dogs tell the truth!
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Andy DePaule
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Could be done on a lathe

Post by Andy DePaule »

Ian Rae wrote:I always assumed that round ends on square shafts were done on a lathe with a 4-jaw chuck.
Hi Ian,
Could be done on a lathe....
That is one way, but I have no lathe so want to do it with the milling machine.
I'm sure the cutter, if I ever find it will be a lot cheaper than a lathe, though I am keeping an eye out for a nice little lathe at a good price.

If nothing else I can drill a 1/4" hole in the ends of the 3/8" square stock and put in some 1/4" round stock. I've considered that because if done that way, I could put a spring behind the rod on one side so it could be spring loaded into place without removing the whole rack they are mounted on. :idea:
Andy :D
Inlaid Star Guitar 2006 by Mark Giles. SD-10 4+5 in E9th; http://luthiersupply.com/instrument-gallery.html
2017 Mullen SD-10, G2 5&5 Polished Aluminum covering. Custom Build for me. Great Steel.
Clinesmith Joaquin Murphy style Aluminum 8 String Lap Steel Short A6th.
Magnatone Jeweltone Series Lap Steel, Circa 1950? 6 String with F#minor7th Tuning.
1956 Dewey Kendrick D-8 4&3, Restoration Project.
1973 Sho~Bud Green SD-10 4&5 PSG, Restoration Project.
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Erv Niehaus
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Post by Erv Niehaus »

When I needed to round off the ends on some square shafts, it was done on a lathe.
Erv
Stuart Constable
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Post by Stuart Constable »

Thanks for the nice comments folks.

I thought that building the guitar was the hard part, how wrong was that?
I’m now in my second year playing and looking forward to the next 40 odd years!!!?

Ian,
I put a bit of Danish Oil on to keep it clean while I sorted out the mechanics.
It brought the grain out so well I put lots more coats on, then buffed it up with Bees wax.
It feels as nice as it looks and the more you polish it the more lovely the wood becomes..

Cheers, Stuart....... :D
AKA Stan Steel
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Sonny Jenkins
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Post by Sonny Jenkins »

I like holes drilled in the end and shafts inserted,,,,I see no need for 1/4",,,,3/16" or even 1/8" mwould be sufficient ,,,,the smaller diameter the less friction,,,and you're not talking about a 1000 lbs of tension,,,JMHO,, and small little pillow blocks for each shaft would allow for easily removing/replacing shaft.
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richard burton
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Post by richard burton »

Here's a cutter from rs online, look closely and you can see that it cuts on the inside and the outside.


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Russell Adkins
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Post by Russell Adkins »

Rounding that square shaft is best done on a lathe however an annular cutter will work also and the drilling a round hole in the shafts end and enserting a small spring along with the size of hole you want with(at least 1 1/2 inch deep would be best all depends on spring length and how much rod you want protruding out ) that same size(slightly undersize) pin or rod will work so there ya have it take your pick, a lathe is quickest and you don't really need a 4 jaw chuck a three jaw chuck will do with the proper setup. Russ
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Johnie King
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Post by Johnie King »

Solid shaft in front 10/ 32 screw in back Allen screw works fine leave access to screw in back panel You can use nylon strip in back with holes properly paced to accept round Allen head or you could use 1/4 inch a thick aluminum instead of nylon. Not my idea I copied The BMI Steel method works very well.
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Johnie King
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Post by Johnie King »

Double post
Last edited by Johnie King on 22 Apr 2019 5:35 pm, edited 2 times in total.
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Andy DePaule
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Post by Andy DePaule »

richard burton wrote:Here's a cutter from rs online, look closely and you can see that it cuts on the inside and the outside.

Image
Hi Richard,
That is exactly the kind if cutting end mill I'm wanting and been looking for.
Hate to sound so dumb, but I'm new to the terminology used on these sites.
I could not find these on line? Do you have a link?
Also when I do find similar items, I don't understand the way they describe the measurements. If I want a 1/4" round end on the 3/8" square shaft and the shaft of the cutter no larger than 7/16" to fit in my small milling machine, what would I be looking at? The one pictured looks as if it would be too large to fit in my mill.

I think Johnnie King has a really easy and good work around there, but think I'd prefer the other way.
Perhaps I'll end up just drilling a 1/4" hole in the 3/8" square and putting in a 1/4" round shaft with the slot and allen screw is best. That would allow for easy installation and removal?

Still wishing we had a Forum section dedicated for people interested in building matters? The other ones out there seem to have little happening.
Andy
Inlaid Star Guitar 2006 by Mark Giles. SD-10 4+5 in E9th; http://luthiersupply.com/instrument-gallery.html
2017 Mullen SD-10, G2 5&5 Polished Aluminum covering. Custom Build for me. Great Steel.
Clinesmith Joaquin Murphy style Aluminum 8 String Lap Steel Short A6th.
Magnatone Jeweltone Series Lap Steel, Circa 1950? 6 String with F#minor7th Tuning.
1956 Dewey Kendrick D-8 4&3, Restoration Project.
1973 Sho~Bud Green SD-10 4&5 PSG, Restoration Project.
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Andy DePaule
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Similar issues

Post by Andy DePaule »

I'm also having similar issues trying to find Delrin bushings.
There are lots of them on E-Bay and Amazon, but hard to figure out the right ones to fit a 1/4" round shaft?
Andy :roll: :D
Inlaid Star Guitar 2006 by Mark Giles. SD-10 4+5 in E9th; http://luthiersupply.com/instrument-gallery.html
2017 Mullen SD-10, G2 5&5 Polished Aluminum covering. Custom Build for me. Great Steel.
Clinesmith Joaquin Murphy style Aluminum 8 String Lap Steel Short A6th.
Magnatone Jeweltone Series Lap Steel, Circa 1950? 6 String with F#minor7th Tuning.
1956 Dewey Kendrick D-8 4&3, Restoration Project.
1973 Sho~Bud Green SD-10 4&5 PSG, Restoration Project.
Dean Silbaugh
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Post by Dean Silbaugh »

Johnie King wrote:Russel I’ve built several pedal steels an made all the parts.
I also built one with a Emmons changer an one with a Sho Bud changer.
The new Sierra Ross Shaffer builds you can watch Ross building all the parts for his steel
Guitar creation on YouTube very cool videos!!!
:D :D :D I have bought parts for a shobud single neck double body pedal steel and am looking for plans to make the wood parts.. do you have any plans Thanx
Ive already made several six string units from scratch
thanx
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Gabriel Edell
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Post by Gabriel Edell »

Stuart Constable wrote:Way back i fell in love with the sound of the Pedal Steel.
There was a Sho-Bud shop in London, where I would spend hours drooling over these beautiful machines, but times were hard and no way could I afford to buy one :(
In 1976 I decided to try and build one. I got a lovely plank of Maple, brought a book by Winnie Winston, and set about making a changer from diagrams there in.
With a lot of work I finished it and completed the body with a wood inlay for the fretboard. I had a pal whose wife was from Nashville and she got me a pickup and 3 pedals from MSA. Then came the confusion of trying to work out the mechanics.......oops!

Then the beast was put on hold while I got drunk, got married, got kids etc.

Fast foreward 40 odd years.....Daughter moved house, and out of the attic came the half built guitar! I had horrors that if I croak, all this hard work will end up being thrown away because nobody knows what it is......I went to a lot of engineering works to try and get some help, but they all wanted drawings. I didn’t have a clue so I went to the hardware shop and brought lots of metal bits and pieces.

I wish I had known about Steel Guitar Forums where I could have got all the help I needed!!!!

Oh well, after a whole lot of sawing, hammering, drilling and swearing, I had a pedal which pulled a bell crank and raised 2 strings 1/2 a tone! A couple of weeks of scratching the head, cut fingers and sweating, FINISHED! And it stayed in tune... which is a good thing as the end tuners are too far in :oops:

It sounds good. I told my Daughters I now know where I can get a proper undercarriage but they told me “No Way, you’ve built that from scratch, without a clue what you were doing!!! That’s now a family heirloom!”

Thanks for reading this rather long post. (Don’t tell my Daughters I’ve now got a Sho-Bud Lloyd Green as well)

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It’s acceptable to have a little giggle at the last picture :lol:
Respect!
GFI S-10 P U, Moyo Volume, Fender Steel King, Fender 5F4 Super-Amp
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Johnie King
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Post by Johnie King »

I’ve built a few pedal steels I never say never but I don’t think I’ll be guilty again.
If I could pace myself an take my time but once I start a pedal steel build it consumes my time an becomes a obsession so I’ll just do set ups an repair.
I’m sure Jimmy Hudson would sell a good steel kit for those who would like to get there feet wet.
Jim Pitman
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Post by Jim Pitman »

Nice execution Stuart C!
I especially like the way you changer pillar blocks inlet to the neck. Looks minimalist - no more or no less.
Great finish ideas too.
Good luck with your PSG journey. Mine has provided many hours of both public and private entertainment.
Jimmy Gibson
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Here’s mine

Post by Jimmy Gibson »

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Jim.
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J R Rose
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Post by J R Rose »

Hey Stuart, Nice work. I too fell in love with the steel guitar in the mid sixty's but just married and starter a family could not afford to buy a new Sho-Bud or whatever. So being a carpenter and a shade tree mechanic I said well I will just built me one. So I did and after about two years had it set up and playing. Did not even know how to tune it let alone play it. But got thru it. Nice little single neck built on the Sho-Bud pull release changer. Two floor and two knees. Still have it an it still works. Wound my own pickups. Plays and sounds good if I do say so. I have pictures but not in this computer. It is not worth anything but my kids have said Dad, please do not get rid of it. So I guess it will become a keep sake. Cheers,J.R.
Black Performance SD-10, 2002. Peavey LTD 400 with 15" Eminence EPS 15-C, Sho-Bud Seat, Goodrich L-120 Pedal, Sho-Bud Bar, Picks, Cords. Nothing else.
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