Questions Re Fender Studio Deluxe "White"

Jim Schofield · Post by **Jim Schofield** » 11 Feb 2019 9:45 pm

The photo is the group of parts I mentioned in my introduction post.

If anyone on the forum has a Fender Champ, Studio Deluxe, Stringmaster or any of those lap steels with the similar sized nuts and saddled could you please let me know the diametre of those parts please? I need to make them.

I could have bought a ready to go instrument but do like a project and as a fan of Leo this was a reasonably cheap way to posses an instrument that's parts were on the workshop floor while Leo was still around at Fender.

Also the idea of a guitar on legs was really appealing to me and I like the idea of "White" sort of like a 50's Squire a bit.

I will wait till a pickup arrives before I make a bridge plate for the instrument so I get string spacing to suit the pup and will also get it up to playing condition first then pull it apart and slap a coat of paint on it.

Jack Hanson · Post by **Jack Hanson** » 12 Feb 2019 12:35 am

Does that eight-string tuner pan fit in the cavity?

Whites, Champs, and Studio Deluxes were all six-string instruments. The Champs and Deluxes shared the same tuner pan. The pan on the Whites was not the same; it took a special pan.

Jeff Mead · Post by **Jeff Mead** » 12 Feb 2019 4:33 am

It'd be a shame to refinish it and lose the original logo. The White brand (named after Forrest White) were student instruments (the numbers on the frets are also a give away).

I've often wondered if the dual 6 guitars used the same bodies as Stringmasters - if they are then maybe the 6 string and 8 string pans were the same size, just more space between tuners?

Jack - are you sure the pans were different? - the tuners were (with plastic buttons) but the pans look the same to me.

Bill Sinclair · Post by **Bill Sinclair** » 12 Feb 2019 7:30 am

Jeff Mead wrote: I've often wondered if the dual 6 guitars used the same bodies as Stringmasters - if they are then maybe the 6 string and 8 string pans were the same size, just more space between tuners?

Jeff, your memory is about as good as mine! I answered that one for you a couple years ago when I had both a D-6 and a D-8. (No longer have the D-6). Yes, same bodies but the D-6 seems to only show up as short scale. Tuner pan dimensions are the same as well. Here's the thread:

https://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtop ... dimensions

Jeff Mead · Post by **Jeff Mead** » 12 Feb 2019 7:40 am

Bill Sinclair wrote:
Jeff, your memory is about as good as mine! I answered that one for you a couple years ago when I had both a D-6 and a D-8. (No longer have the D-6). Yes, same bodies but the D-6 seems to only show up as short scale. Tuner pan dimensions are the same as well. Here's the thread:

https://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtop ... dimensions

Oops - yes, I remember now. Thanks again

Jim Schofield · Post by **Jim Schofield** » 12 Feb 2019 4:57 pm

Thanks for your interest gents, I have estimated the measurement I am looking for at about 3/8 inch or a bit less at 9mm and I am sure that would be good enough although it would be good to have an accurate measurement if someone could do that favour for me.

It does not quite fit Jack but I had, before I bought the parts, taken some measurements off photos on the WWW using the fret spacing as a reference. So I knew they were close, the same length but the 8 string pan (from a 400 pedal) splayed out a bit where the White 6 string is parallel along its length which means I do have to shave a taper into the pan pocket. From 0 at the top to about 1/8 inch one either side at the nut end.

I did do a bit of leg work before I bought the parts Jeff, quite a bit of information on this forum and some other bits and pieces in other places as well. What you mentioned there is part of the reason I chose the "White" body, I like that it was student and also like those numbers on the fretboard for aesthetic reasons. As well the idea of a Fender Frankensteel had its appeal.

Yep if I do re-finish I will have to have a logo copy made cause I do like the logo but these things had such boring colours. There is a "White" on the forum that is painted in a maroon (very opulent) and I would have liked to use that colour but as it has been done I will likely go for a deep royal blue with a bit of pearl in it and a coat or two of bright pale blue candy before clear gloss nitro (pre-cat)

Link to Maroon "White" on the forum

Jack Hanson · Post by **Jack Hanson** » 12 Feb 2019 6:12 pm

Jim, my tendency would be to leave the body alone and try to source correct parts (pickup and electronics excluded). Fully realizing it's yours to do with as you please (and that your location down under is also a factor), if you're set on doing a "Frankenfender," it looks like a fun project.

Since you already have the pan, why not make it a Deluxe-8 (basically a single-neck Stringmaster). Check with Forumite Jimmie Hudson for a repro Stringmaster bridge plate. He may also have nuts and bridges. Jerry Sentell in California, among others, makes excellent Stingmaster pickup sets.

Here's a basketcase Gibson project I rebuilt with a pair of Sentell pickups. The only factory parts are the body and the sawed-off fretboard. I dubbed it the "Ultramaster." It sounds awesome:

Bill Sinclair · Post by **Bill Sinclair** » 12 Feb 2019 6:21 pm

Jim,
I'll measure my Stringmaster bridge and nut in the morning ( I'm on the other side of the planet) if no one gives you the dimensions of their Champ or Deluxe parts before then. Are you planning to make this into an eight string? Cool idea, but definitely research it thoroughly before you do any routing. My own tendencies are similar to Jeff's: the original finish and decal are what this body has going for it, but I have to admit, that maroon guitar you linked is gorgeous.

Jim Schofield · Post by **Jim Schofield** » 12 Feb 2019 8:01 pm

I get what you guys are saying but if I wanted an original then I would have bought one complete. If, after I have built this one, I continue to play instead of just going back to picking up my acoustic guitar (always appealing cause you don't have to plug them in) I may buy something complete, I do like the look of those Stringmasters, but am not interested in the Professional. My alternative would be to build a vague copy of the Stringmaster from scratch.

So this one will end up as a 8 string but not with the humbucking setup like the Deluxe or Stringmaster just a single and I don't mind the hum. I had a look for a Sentell and or the Lollar on ebay but no joy there so I bought a Duncan Stringmaster (a bit of laziness cause ebay is easy) but I need to wait for that to arrive before I complete my bridge plate.

Thanks for the tip on the bridge plate Jack but as this will be a one of a kind I will just make it myself and will make it to look like the the Champ or White plate but for 8 strings and probably no slant (or just a hint for looks) on the pickup cause that will narrow the string spacing even more, still I will decide that when it is in my hands.

I already have materials laying around like 1/16 steel plate for the bridge plate and 3/8 brass rod for nut and saddle from past projects. Also making the nut and saddle myself means I can get the string spacing just where I want it to suit that body and pup.

That measurement would be appreciated Bill, I figured I don't need the pup to cut the start of the bridge plate so I did that this morning, ergo a photo. I traced it from the print line left behind by the original but added about 1/4 inch overall to the width.

Bill Groner · Post by **Bill Groner** » 13 Feb 2019 1:09 am

A man with a plan! Brillant!

Jeff Mead · Post by **Jeff Mead** » 13 Feb 2019 4:38 am

Jim Schofield wrote:I get what you guys are saying but if I wanted an original then I would have bought one complete.

Actually, despite my original comments, I really like what you are doing with this.

Because most of the parts aren't original anyway, it will always be a player rather than a collector's piece so why not make it into a cool, unique instrument. Convering it to an 8 stringer is a great idea and I agree that a custom colour will look fantastic (especially if you make a repro decal).

I have restored a couple of Stringmasters and, although they had already lost their original finish before I got them, I decided that the world didn't need yet another blonde stringmaster so I now play and love my red quad and my turquoise double neck. I probably would have agonised about removing the original finish had there been one but I'm delighted to be playing something a bit out of the ordinary.

Keep us updated and can't wait to see the finished result.

Bill Sinclair · Post by **Bill Sinclair** » 13 Feb 2019 7:29 am

Jim,
On the Stringmaster, the nut is 3/8" diameter and the bridge is 5/16". The nut has gauged grooves for the strings but the bridge does not. There are also two slightly raised dents in the bridge plate stamping that raises the bridge rod off the plate about 1/64". I don't know what that is for. Maybe to keep the strings parallel to the neck with the different bridge diameter? Seems like it would reduce the sustain a little. For that matter, I'm not sure why they used an adjustable bridge. Maybe to account for manufacturing tolerances in making the body and mounting the bridge/pickup plate? I imagine you could just accurately measure the location for the bridge and screw it to the guitar the way the nut is instead of making it adjustable.

Certainly an interesting project. Keep us posted!

Jeff Mead · Post by **Jeff Mead** » 13 Feb 2019 11:41 am

By the way - do those holes in the tuner pan cavity go all the way through? If so, maybe someone rigged it up for a pedal or two at some point in its life?

Jim Schofield · Post by **Jim Schofield** » 13 Feb 2019 3:46 pm

Ha! I would add to that Bill. A man with a plan, a shed and a box of tools.

I did wonder what went on there Jeff and satisfied my curiosity with this very inspiring SGF thread "Converting non-pedal to pedal". I also like to think that not only did Leo buy boring paints because they were cheap but he also figured that because of his designs we could easily pull them apart and paint them in our own version of cool.

Thanks very much Bill. for the size and the extra information as well. I had considered acoustic guitar shaped nuts for the nut and saddle cause the string would leave them on a nice 90 degree ledge and the base offers more surface contact area but also thought I might be over complicating things and I do like the look of the cylinders. Yes I agree there too, why the adjustment, I don't need it but then again I like the look as well. So I think I will make them both 3/8 inch but because of the bridge plate thickness and the nut sitting on the wooden body I might put a little flat in the bottom of the saddle and still add the adjusting screws for looks, I figure if I eventually make one from scratch I will do things differently.

Jack Hanson · Post by **Jack Hanson** » 13 Feb 2019 4:34 pm

Jim Schofield wrote:Yep if I do re-finish I will have to have a logo copy made cause I do like the logo but these things had such boring colours. There is a "White" on the forum that is painted in a maroon (very opulent) and I would have liked to use that colour but as it has been done I will likely go for a deep royal blue with a bit of pearl in it and a coat or two of bright pale blue candy before clear gloss nitro (pre-cat)

Although many folks prefer the original finish, here's a pic of the semi-stripped Studio Deluxe I won with a fairly low bid on eBay a few years back. Undoubtedly, the candy apple red refin was a contributing factor to its low price.

Jim Schofield · Post by **Jim Schofield** » 13 Feb 2019 5:25 pm

Okay, looks good Jack and I have seen it come up in an image search because of this thread Pickup options for Fender Studio Deluxe

Oh and that second photo in your thread looks like the "White" Studio Deluxe while it was turquoise, before it was painted maroon.

So not only does it look good in red, you got a bargain as well. That is the sort of thing I would buy though if this bug keeps biting me I may just buy an original in a old tweed box just to put on a shelf, maybe just the champ.

Jim Schofield · Post by **Jim Schofield** » 15 Feb 2019 5:14 pm

You can see here that there wasn't too much to remove to fit the eight string pan, it ended up being from 0 to 3/16 inch taper either side.

I had the thought to taper the headstock to suit the pan, more of that "Snake head" shape of the Champ than parallel but parrallel looks fine to me so I will leave it alone.

Jim Schofield · Post by **Jim Schofield** » 15 Oct 2019 11:59 pm

The finished 8 string modification. In the end I am happy with the original paint. The Seymour Duncan answer to the Stringmaster pickup is fine. To get that white pup cover I had to have one printed.

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Jack Hanson · Post by **Jack Hanson** » 16 Oct 2019 12:20 am

Nice!

Bill Sinclair · Post by **Bill Sinclair** » 16 Oct 2019 6:59 am

I love it. Looks good with the original finish too. Nice job on that control plate. You have a very unique 8 string there. Thanks for the update.

Stephen Cowell · Post by **Stephen Cowell** » 16 Oct 2019 8:28 pm

Wow! You really out-did yourself on that bridgeplate... amazing. What a wonderful guitar, I'd love to hear it play.

Glenn Wilde · Post by **Glenn Wilde** » 18 Oct 2019 12:24 am

Wow, that came out killer. It really looks like it could be a stock Fender creation.

Jim Schofield · Post by **Jim Schofield** » 18 Oct 2019 4:39 pm

While I am not sure if I "out-did" myself it does look like Fender made the nut, saddle and bridge plate. Rather than polish the bridge plate steel before it was chromed I just left the mill finish and some small areas of pitting so that even up close it looks like one from Fender.