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Topic: A Couple Questions About My MCI |
Dennis Montgomery
From: Western Washington
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Posted 13 Apr 2018 8:38 pm
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Hi all, I'm new to 10 string pedal steel and just purchased this 1986 3x5 MCI Arlington. I have a couple questions about the changer.
1) What is the smaller access opening on the left for? It has a 3 hole plate behind it, but that doesn't seem to be connected to anything that would pull a string sharp or flat
2) With a 3 sharp/3 flat changer, I'm wondering how someone would decide which of the 3 positions to use? For example, would the top position have a more pronounced sharp/flat range than the bottom? Why would you choose to connect to 1 position versus the others?
Thanks!
[/img] _________________ Hear my latest album, "Celestial" featuring a combination of Mullen SD12 and Synthesizers:
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Billy Carr
From: Seminary, Mississippi, USA (deceased)
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Posted 13 Apr 2018 9:27 pm Psg
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Extra (#11) spot in the pic is used to fine tune a half stop. Usually on the 2nd string. D# to D and then it should drop down to a C# using the #2 tuning nut. Tune the #5 B to a C# w/pedal #1 and then just tune the 2nd string to C# w/KL'er engaged fully. My last MCI was like this. |
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Henry Matthews
From: Texarkana, Ark USA
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Posted 19 Apr 2018 7:14 pm
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Dennis, there should be a pull rod with nylon tuner thru it connected to a bell crank on second string lower. As Billy said, then you can adjust the feel for a half stop.
Also, each hole in the changer finger gives you a different ratio in travel. With the guitar sittin upright, the closer to top of guitar hole you use, the shorter the travel for pedal or knee lever. Pulls and lowers can be balanced out better this way. _________________ Henry Matthews
D-10 Magnum, 8 &5, dark rose color
D-10 1974 Emmons cut tail, fat back,rosewood, 8&5
Nashville 112 amp, Fishman Loudbox Performer amp, Hilton pedal, Goodrich pedal,BJS bar, Kyser picks, Live steel Strings. No effects, doodads or stomp boxes. |
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J R Rose
From: Keota, Oklahoma, USA
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Posted 19 Apr 2018 9:01 pm
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Hey Henry, Good to see you back on the Forum. Hope you are improving. J.R. _________________ NOTHING..Sold it all. J.R. Rose |
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Dennis Montgomery
From: Western Washington
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Posted 20 Apr 2018 6:39 am
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Thanks to Henry and Billy for clearing that up  |
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Ron Pruter
From: Arizona, USA
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Posted 22 Apr 2018 7:12 pm
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Dennis,
Nice, clean steel. The higher up you go on the changer the stiffer the pedal feel but, the more pitch change you'll get. Just the opposite on the bell crank holes. The further up you go, the lighter the feel but the less pitch change you will get. RP _________________ Emmons SKH Le Grande, '73 Fender P/J bass, Tick tack bass, Regal high strung, USA Nashville 112. |
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Jim Palenscar
From: Oceanside, Calif, USA
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Posted 23 Apr 2018 6:01 am
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Just to clarify what Ron said, since I'm used to looking at guitars upside down, the further way from the changer axle the pull rod is placed, the less pitch change for the same amount of movement but the easier it is and the opposite for the bell crank- the further away from the cross shaft the pull rod is placed, the more pitch change is experienced but more pressure is needed to achieve the change. Combining these two principals one can better "time" the changes allowing for each change to start at the same time. |
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