after seeing Paul Franklin Bar lesson,few questions came up!
Moderator: Shoshanah Marohn
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after seeing Paul Franklin Bar lesson,few questions came up!
Hello all.
i got stainless steel dunlop 7/8 bar (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007 ... UTF8&psc=1)
And i saw Paul saying that chrome bar sounds more "right" while stainless can be too bright .
considering to get a 7/8 inch chrome round bar.
Im cerious about your opinion on this.
another thing is the size of the bar to my hand. heres a picture :
Do i need to get a longer one? not sure if the currect one is 10 or 12 strings since i got this without the option of choosing.
Im sure theres a lot of topics about this and im sorry about that. but i took the oppurtunity .
Thank you all.
i got stainless steel dunlop 7/8 bar (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007 ... UTF8&psc=1)
And i saw Paul saying that chrome bar sounds more "right" while stainless can be too bright .
considering to get a 7/8 inch chrome round bar.
Im cerious about your opinion on this.
another thing is the size of the bar to my hand. heres a picture :
Do i need to get a longer one? not sure if the currect one is 10 or 12 strings since i got this without the option of choosing.
Im sure theres a lot of topics about this and im sorry about that. but i took the oppurtunity .
Thank you all.
- Don R Brown
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- Location: Rochester, New York, USA
Ben, you did not say what stage of learning you are at but I'll guess it's fairly new.
While I'm sure Paul Franklin's advice you quote is good, my 2 cents worth is just go ahead and get experience and seat time. I have been at it several years (altho still a newcomer compared to most here) and I can assure you there are MANY things I need to change to improve my playing before the type of bar is going to matter.
Asking the question is fine, but extra hours with the "wrong" bar is going to pay off more than waiting and worrying about the "correct" bar.
Good luck with it!
While I'm sure Paul Franklin's advice you quote is good, my 2 cents worth is just go ahead and get experience and seat time. I have been at it several years (altho still a newcomer compared to most here) and I can assure you there are MANY things I need to change to improve my playing before the type of bar is going to matter.
Asking the question is fine, but extra hours with the "wrong" bar is going to pay off more than waiting and worrying about the "correct" bar.
Good luck with it!
Many play better than I do. Nobody has more fun.
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Hey Ben,
I would say that a longer 12 string chrome bar would definitely benefit you as you learn. Like Paul says in his videos, bar control is pivotal to being able to play in tune, and learning with a bar that is properly sized for your hand will be a big part of this. I changed to a 12 string bar 15 years ago or more at Paul's recommendation and it has served me Very well. A 10 string bar feels tiny to me now.
My dad, Wally Moyers, and myself were playing yesterday and had this talk. For his hands a 10 string bar is perfect, but for my larger hands the 12 string bar is what fits. From your picture I would say that you would benefit from a longer bar.
I would advise against practicing with equipment that performs poorly or does not fit you well. That's how bad habits are formed....
Just my thoughts.
Jeremy
I would say that a longer 12 string chrome bar would definitely benefit you as you learn. Like Paul says in his videos, bar control is pivotal to being able to play in tune, and learning with a bar that is properly sized for your hand will be a big part of this. I changed to a 12 string bar 15 years ago or more at Paul's recommendation and it has served me Very well. A 10 string bar feels tiny to me now.
My dad, Wally Moyers, and myself were playing yesterday and had this talk. For his hands a 10 string bar is perfect, but for my larger hands the 12 string bar is what fits. From your picture I would say that you would benefit from a longer bar.
I would advise against practicing with equipment that performs poorly or does not fit you well. That's how bad habits are formed....
Just my thoughts.
Jeremy
- Don R Brown
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- Location: Rochester, New York, USA
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- Location: Israel
Thank you guys!!
so which of thoose should i take?
https://www.bjsbars.com/store/c4/7%2F8%22_Bars.html
so which of thoose should i take?
https://www.bjsbars.com/store/c4/7%2F8%22_Bars.html
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- Jim Fogarty
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I don't totally disagree with you, but when I was only a few months into it, I was having major issues with extraneous bar noise, using the generic Dunlop bar I'd had kicking around for years (from lap steel, etc).Don R Brown wrote:Ben, you did not say what stage of learning you are at but I'll guess it's fairly new.
While I'm sure Paul Franklin's advice you quote is good, my 2 cents worth is just go ahead and get experience and seat time. I have been at it several years (altho still a newcomer compared to most here) and I can assure you there are MANY things I need to change to improve my playing before the type of bar is going to matter.
Asking the question is fine, but extra hours with the "wrong" bar is going to pay off more than waiting and worrying about the "correct" bar.
Investing in one of Michael Hillman's powder coated bars, then a BJS, made a HUGE difference, and helped clean up a problem that was making me think maybe the steel just wasn't for me.
I don't believe in trying to buy talent, but I do think it's worthwhile learning on the best gear you can (easily) afford.
But I'd also say to Ben.........if you're NOT having a problem, no reason to change, just because of something someone (even a legend like Paul) says.
YMMV.
- Bill Ferguson
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I used a SS bar for years, then some 25 years ago, Bill Stroud gave me a BJS bar and WOW, I could hear and FEEL the difference immediately.
The stainless steel bar seemed to drag against my stainless steel strings.
The BJS bars slides like butter.
So later, I was so impressed, I became a BJS dealer.
So let me know if I can be of service.
The stainless steel bar seemed to drag against my stainless steel strings.
The BJS bars slides like butter.
So later, I was so impressed, I became a BJS dealer.
So let me know if I can be of service.
AUTHORIZED George L's, Goodrich, Telonics and Peavey Dealer: I have 2 steels and several amps. My current rig of choice is 1993 Emmons LeGrande w/ 108 pups (Jack Strayhorn built for me), Goodrich OMNI Volume Pedal, George L's cables, Goodrich Baby Bloomer and Peavey Nashville 112. Can't get much sweeter.
- Jerry Horch
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I got a BJS 15/16" (chromed) bar (not John Hughey model), and it is slicker on the strings than my longtime stainless steel 15/16" bar, and I notice I tend to incorporate more bar slides in my playing when I use it. Unfortunately, it is also lighter (10 oz. vs. 11 oz.) and shorter (3 3/8" vs. 3 1/2"), and just doesn't feel right in my hand.
There are multiple factors in choosing a bar!
There are multiple factors in choosing a bar!
Probably the best bar you can buy, money back guarantee if not fully satisfied and lifetime replacement guarantee. Sticks to you hand like poo to a blanket and on the strings is a slick as a used car salesman..
Last edited by basilh on 25 Dec 2018 5:45 pm, edited 1 time in total.
- Bob Hoffnar
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I use my John pierce bar and it works fine. I also really like using my old Emmons bar. Lately I use my BJS mostly. I don’t think it is that big a deal. If you have been playing for under 5 years or don’t practice much and you have problems with bar noise the type of bar you use is the least of your problems.
Bob
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I think I own more bars than anything else here! I used a stainless ten string bar, then a 12 string bar, (gave that away) then the BJS 10 string bar and got a Clinesmith 10 string white ceramic or whatever that is and they are all fine to me. I just bought an old Sho Bud bar yesterday and will use this old stainless for a while. They are all good and at home I use a John Pearce and it's as good as any. I kinda like the Clinesmith most but I like to experiment. I used The Clinesmith in the studio and the tone was great. I think a 3 1/4 bar is standard and that's fine with me although I have a couple of 3" bars I like too for bar slants. I also like a 15/16" bar about as much. I wonder what bar did Emmons use?
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(Probably) all true. Stainless bars seem to drag a bit more on stainless strings. Larger bars seem to have a different attack sound on the highest notes. And heavier bars may give a little more sustain than lighter ones. All that said, I don't think these are things that will impede your playing. My first bar was a wrist-pin from a Cummins diesel engine!Bob Hoffnar wrote:I use my John pierce bar and it works fine. I also really like using my old Emmons bar. Lately I use my BJS mostly. I don’t think it is that big a deal. If you have been playing for under 5 years or don’t practice much and you have problems with bar noise the type of bar you use is the least of your problems.
- John McClung
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When I moved to the extended E9 tuning I switched to a 12-string BJS bar.
That didn't last long because the way I hold the bar, the bar nose extended past my middle finger. I pull the bar back and block strings 1 and 2 pretty often with the tip of my middle finger extended past the bar nose, and that longer bar destroyed that technique and marred my playing.
Most of us lifelong players have vast collections of tried-and-discarded bars in our sock drawers, and you will, too!
That didn't last long because the way I hold the bar, the bar nose extended past my middle finger. I pull the bar back and block strings 1 and 2 pretty often with the tip of my middle finger extended past the bar nose, and that longer bar destroyed that technique and marred my playing.
Most of us lifelong players have vast collections of tried-and-discarded bars in our sock drawers, and you will, too!
E9 INSTRUCTION
If you want to have an ongoing discussion, please email me, don't use the Forum messaging which I detest! steelguitarlessons@earthlink.net
If you want to have an ongoing discussion, please email me, don't use the Forum messaging which I detest! steelguitarlessons@earthlink.net
BUT what if you had a bar that was as quiet as a Church Mouse, sticks to you hand like poo to a blanket and on the strings is as slick as a used car salesman ? on top of which carried a LIFETIME replacement guarantee, and included the fact that a complete refund was available if you were not completely happy, no questions asked..Bob Hoffnar wrote: If you have been playing for under 5 years or don’t practice much and you have problems with bar noise the type of bar you use is the least of your problems.
What then ?
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EZ slide bars
If you decide to go with an EZ slide, make sure you read the instructions before cleaning and polish. I had a zirc bar I traded Mickey Adams and when I got the EZ slide bar, it was in need of cleaning and polishing. Well whatever you do, do not try to polish on a buffer or you will melt yours like I melted mine. I didn’t get to even to use it and couldn’t get a replacement I guess because I didn’t buy it directly from Basil. I’ve polished my powder coated bars many times and I have no problem getting it smooth as glass. Just a public service announcement. I’m back to using my BJ’s now.
Dale
Dale
Rittenberry Prestige(2)
Re: EZ slide bars
Dale return it to me and I'll replace it, even though you bought it "Second Hand Used".. no problem whatsoever. All you will pay is the S&H..BUT all my bars come with a letter like this.Dale Foreman wrote:Well whatever you do, do not try to polish on a buffer or you will melt yours like I melted mine. I didn’t get to even to use it and couldn’t get a replacement I guess because I didn’t buy it directly from Basil. Just a public service announcement.
Dale
My bars are also not guaranteed against being chewed by dogs,
Or used by children as a hammer..
Or used by children as a hammer..
Last edited by basilh on 29 Nov 2019 7:50 am, edited 1 time in total.
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After seeing Paul Franklin a few bar questions came up
Assuming you are a beginner, the bar you have is fine. Not to add confusion, but I used a 7/8 BJS bar for probably 40 years. I stumbled on to a 3/4" Hillman powder coated bar and was in love with it after 5 minutes. It just glides so effortlessly and the tone suits me just fine. I sold my BJS and never looked back.
- Larry Becker
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- Joined: 31 Aug 2012 4:45 pm
- Location: Ontario, Canada
tone bar
Last year, I acquired an MSA S12 steel guitar,(1973) and it came complete with an MSA tone bar..After playing a variety of other tone bars for the last 27 years or so,, THIS is the one I was looking for from the outset..It fits my hand perfectly, and it's as smooth as they come also..I keep all the others for backup, if needed, but this one is the one I always use..
Show Pro D10, 9&5, Boss RV3, Fender Steel King, Fender Twin,Fender Hot Rod De Ville ,Fender Stratocaster, Fender Telecaster, Gibson '61 SG. Fender Studio DeLuxe lap steel,,'59 Fender Princeton amp..1973 MSA S12
- Larry Bell
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- Location: Englewood, Florida
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When I first started playing steel in 1975, I loved the silky feel of nickel/steel strings. I had several bars of varying sizes and that allowed me to home in on the most comfortable bar size to fit my hand. And drag or ‘sliding friction’ was not an issue. Shortly thereafter, I realized that my salty, sweaty hands were killing a set of nickel strings within a couple of weeks. I tried several brands of stainless strings which were usable for several months before starting to degrade. HOWEVER, those stainless bars dragged like crazy. I met Bill Stroud (Mr. BJS) at Scotty’s in the late 70s and he verified my suspicions: STAINLESS STRINGS AND STAINLESS BARS are not a good combination. In the ensuing 40 years, I found that to be the case. OVER AND OVER. I have used chromed bars exclusively on THOUSANDS of gigs and still have my original BJS. I like the Hughey 15/16†size and, when those were available, I asked John if I could try his and, sure enough, it was ideal for me.
Moral of the story: If you prefer nickel strings and don’t mind the shorter lifetime, any bar that feels right in your hands will be fine. For stainless strings, a coated / chrome plated or ceramic bar like Basil’s will reduce the friction substantially. That’s my take on it, anyway. Your mileage may vary.
Moral of the story: If you prefer nickel strings and don’t mind the shorter lifetime, any bar that feels right in your hands will be fine. For stainless strings, a coated / chrome plated or ceramic bar like Basil’s will reduce the friction substantially. That’s my take on it, anyway. Your mileage may vary.
Larry Bell - email: larry@larrybell.org - gigs - Home Page
My CD's: 'I've Got Friends in COLD Places' - 'Pedal Steel Guitar'
2021 Rittenberry S/D-12 8x7, 1976 Emmons S/D-12 7x6, 1969 Emmons S/D-12 6x6, 1971 Dobro, Quilter ToneBlock 202 TT-12
My CD's: 'I've Got Friends in COLD Places' - 'Pedal Steel Guitar'
2021 Rittenberry S/D-12 8x7, 1976 Emmons S/D-12 7x6, 1969 Emmons S/D-12 6x6, 1971 Dobro, Quilter ToneBlock 202 TT-12