| Author |
Topic: Need finish help for 46 Rickenbacher NS metal guitar |
Steve Wilson
From:
Morgan Hill, California, USA
|
Posted 3 Nov 2017 8:57 pm |
|
| I have an old metal-bodied Rick NS that has been stripped of it's once gray finish. The bare metal looks pretty good, but it is hard to keep polished. Is there any type of clear lacquer or something that could be applied once it it very clean? Love the guitar, just hoping to make it look better. |
|
|
|
Bill Groner
From:
QUAKERTOWN, PA
|
Posted 4 Nov 2017 3:28 am Re: Need finish help for 46 Rickenbacher NS metal guitar
|
|
| Steve Wilson wrote: |
| I have an old metal-bodied Rick NS that has been stripped of it's once gray finish. The bare metal looks pretty good, but it is hard to keep polished. Is there any type of clear lacquer or something that could be applied once it it very clean? Love the guitar, just hoping to make it look better. |
I built this aluminum guitar and my fingerprints were all over it. I took gray scotch brite and cleaned it up nice and shiny. (you have to do this whole process with rubber gloves on so oil from you skin does not get on the metal) Once clean I wiped it all down with a clean DRY rag. I then put on two coats of Pledge floor finish. I have had it on for 6 months now it looks just like the day it was applied.
_________________
Currently own, 6 Groner-tone lap steels, one 1953 Alamo Lap steel, Roland Cube, Fender Champion 40 |
|
|
|
James Hartman
From:
Pennsylvania, USA
|
Posted 4 Nov 2017 6:44 am
|
|
I've used Behlen Brass Lacquer with excellent result on brass; good product. However your instrument is, I believe, not brass but steel. Might work fine, I don't know. Easy enough to try it on a piece of scrap steel.
Other more generic clear lacquers which claim to be usable on metal are readily available from companies like Minwax. I have no direct experience with them as to durability, etc. |
|
|
|
Erv Niehaus
From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
|
Posted 4 Nov 2017 7:50 am
|
|
I would recommend clear nitrocellulose lacquer in a rattle can from:
www.reranch.com |
|
|
|
Michael Maddex
From:
Northern New Mexico, USA
|
Posted 4 Nov 2017 6:29 pm
|
|
I get my rattle-can lacquer from the Auto Parts Store. I don't know why it wouldn't work if you can get the surface nice and clean as per Bill G's post. Whatever you do, Have Fun and Good Luck with your Project. 
_________________
"For every expert, there is an equal and opposite expert." -- Arthur C. Clarke |
|
|
|
Steve Wilson
From:
Morgan Hill, California, USA
|
Posted 4 Nov 2017 8:48 pm Thanks guys!
|
|
| I appreciate all the good suggestions. It turns out I have a can of ReRanch clear and tinted lacquer. I am going to give it a try. I thought I would likely give the whole guitar a good wipe with acetone to remove any polishing stuff before painting. Wish me luck. |
|
|
|
Bill Groner
From:
QUAKERTOWN, PA
|
Posted 5 Nov 2017 6:34 am Re: Thanks guys!
|
|
| Steve Wilson wrote: |
| I appreciate all the good suggestions. It turns out I have a can of ReRanch clear and tinted lacquer. I am going to give it a try. I thought I would likely give the whole guitar a good wipe with acetone to remove any polishing stuff before painting. Wish me luck. |
Wishing you GOOD LUCK. 
_________________
Currently own, 6 Groner-tone lap steels, one 1953 Alamo Lap steel, Roland Cube, Fender Champion 40 |
|
|
|
Bill Creller
From:
Saginaw, Michigan, USA (deceased)
|
Posted 5 Nov 2017 8:51 pm
|
|
| Hi Steve ! Have fun with it !! |
|
|
|
Lee Holliday
From:
United Kingdom
|
Posted 8 Nov 2017 10:34 pm
|
|
Go for cream/off white crinkle powder coat, a lightly textured finish.
They were this colour before they were grey.
Lee |
|
|
|
Steve Wilson
From:
Morgan Hill, California, USA
|
Posted 9 Nov 2017 10:53 pm Update
|
|
Hi Bill! I hope you are doing well.
Lee, I thought about doing the crinkle finish, but really like the look of bare metal - kind of a poor man's Silver Hawaiian:)
I did spray the clear lacquer once I had it polished as good as I could get it. It looks OK, but it lost some of it's bare polished metal look. At least I hope it will keep the rust and corrosion down. This type of metal apparently needs to be sealed or chromed. Thanks to everyone for the suggestions and comments. |
|
|
|
Jim Sliff
From:
Lawndale California, USA
|
Posted 10 Nov 2017 12:01 am
|
|
Naphtha - Ronson lighter fluid is essentially the same thing - is a much safer solventnand leaves no residue. Acetone is highly flammable and is a disaster if spilled. It’s also bad stuff to breathe.
I don’t recommend it except as a very specific finish softener - and then only in controlled situations with proper respiratory protection.
And coear lacquer should work great. Just he sure to apply it in VERY light passes - 3 passes per “coat”, and even one coat should not look completely glossy & smooth. It will take about 3 coats before you get full coverage and probably 5-6 coats minimum.
Doing it this way will get you the most consistent finish and most pisitive adhesion.
_________________
No chops, but great tone
1930's/40's Rickenbacher/Rickenbacker 6&8 string lap steels
1921 Weissenborn Style 2; Hilo&Schireson hollownecks
Appalachian, Regal & Dobro squarenecks
1959 Fender 400 9+2 B6;1960's Fender 800 3+3+2; 1948 Fender Dual-8 Professional |
|
|
|
