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Author Topic:  My Sierra rebuild
Charley Bond


From:
Inola, OK, USA
Post  Posted 31 May 2017 5:05 pm    
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When I added some Pedals & Levers to my S10 Sierra, everything turned out great, except my (Franklin) B's are on my RKR, ended up without enough travel to get to A.

I'm wondering if my loss of enough travel is due to a timing issue (i.e., rods in the wrong holes). I adopted the Tommy White copedent, but am not finished with the project, maybe some of my friends here, can help me finish.

Thanks
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Last edited by Charley Bond on 1 Jun 2017 7:56 am; edited 1 time in total
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Tim Russell


From:
Pennsylvania, USA
Post  Posted 31 May 2017 5:42 pm    
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My D-10 Sierra changer has tons of travel. When I run in to this issue, the first thing I look at is -

Are you sure the knee lever, related drive train is not hitting the stop?

When I re-rodded my Sierra last year, I couldn't get the 1rst string to pull far enough & return to F# properly.

Turned out I was hitting the stop, and consequently over tuning.
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Charlie McDonald


From:
out of the blue
Post  Posted 1 Jun 2017 4:54 am    
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I'm somewhat confused, thinking that the Franklin pedal lowers B to A.
Using the FP with a Bb lower on a lever might require you to pull out all the stops.
At the very least, you'd have to lengthen the throw (timing), and I'm not sure you'd be able to lower B5 a step and a half.

According to the latest charts I've seen, Paul doesn't have a Bb pedal, and Tommy doesn't use the FP. Neither has B going to G#.
However, you may be inventing a new pedal. "It's Bond... Bond Pedal."
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Charley Bond


From:
Inola, OK, USA
Post  Posted 1 Jun 2017 5:52 am     my pedal doesn't work
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You are right, the B goes to A. There is not a new pedal. I have my copedent like Tommy White, except my RKR & RKL are reversed. all the pulls work great, but lowering the B to A seems like a long pull. I was hoping I could get some help on the Forum????
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b0b


From:
Cloverdale, CA, USA
Post  Posted 1 Jun 2017 6:29 am    
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I had a similar problem on a Sierra Crown once, and someone (maybe Andy DePaule?) machined a couple of longer bell cranks for me. They were "half a slot" longer. Did the trick.

Or you could go to a thicker gauge string. An .018 works well for B, but .019 might draw blood. Shocked

I edited your top post to say "A" instead of "Ab".
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Charley Bond


From:
Inola, OK, USA
Post  Posted 1 Jun 2017 8:02 am     The 5th string
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QUOTE >> B รขโ‚ฌโ€œ .017 or .018. The most common choice is .017, because it gives you a longer, more sensitive pedal pull. The .018 has a stronger tone, it pulls more quickly and takes more effort on the pedal. Some players switch to .018 after years of using .017 because of the tone or for the shorter pull << UNQUOTE

While the B or 5th string might pull up quicker to B# with the 18ga, will it lower quicker with the 18ga as well...?
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 1 Jun 2017 10:02 am    
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Yes. Thicker cores respond more quickly than thinner ones.
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2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects
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Charley Bond


From:
Inola, OK, USA
Post  Posted 4 Jun 2017 12:54 pm     Thanks bOb, for the edit...
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I was looking at my guitar again today, I may have made a design error when adding that RKR. Since the lever was so close to the leg, I designed a piggy back setup to move the lever left, from the mechanism used to actuate the crosshaft.. When I did, I used the bellcrank hole farthest from the crosshaft, thinking that would give a quicker throw, but that may have been completely wrong. Need to re-visit that lever setup.
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Andy DePaule


From:
Saigon, Viet Nam & Springfield, Oregon
Post  Posted 5 Jun 2017 9:12 am    
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b0b wrote:
I had a similar problem on a Sierra Crown once, and someone (maybe Andy DePaule?) machined a couple of longer bell cranks for me..


Not me Bob,
Never had a machine shop, but would like to have one now.
Was planning on trying to build a steel back in 78 or 79 and took welding and machine shop night classes then.
Made 3 nice pedals and a couple of other parts (Long since lost) and never got the project done. Made several bars for myself & friends too.

Now semi retired and thinking of getting back to it, but I'd need to take those classes again....

Ahhh, the things I could have gotten done if not for that divorce and the next two divorces getting in the way. Whoa!
You'd think I would have learned!
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Inlaid Star Guitar 2006 by Mark Giles. SD-10 4+5 in E9th; http://luthiersupply.com/instrument-gallery.html
2017 Mullen SD-10, G2 5&5 Polished Aluminum covering. Custom Build for me. Great Steel.
Clinesmith Joaquin Murphy style Aluminum 8 String Lap Steel Short A6th.
Magnatone Jeweltone Series Lap Steel, Circa 1950? 6 String with F#minor7th Tuning.
1956 Dewey Kendrick D-8 4&3, Restoration Project.
1973 Sho~Bud Green SD-10 4&5 PSG, Restoration Project.
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Charley Bond


From:
Inola, OK, USA
Post  Posted 5 Jun 2017 10:37 am     My Sierra rebuild
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My first Sierra D-10 had Red Birdseye Maple veneer on it & it was loaded with birdseyes. Has anybody redone their guitar with wood in lieu of formica...?
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Andy DePaule


From:
Saigon, Viet Nam & Springfield, Oregon
Post  Posted 5 Jun 2017 10:56 am     Another Red Birdseye Sierra
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My friend and fellow forumite, John Sala has a Red Birdseye Sierra that Tony Glassman made for him back in the late 70's.
He still has that guitar. It is stunning to see and hear.
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Inlaid Star Guitar 2006 by Mark Giles. SD-10 4+5 in E9th; http://luthiersupply.com/instrument-gallery.html
2017 Mullen SD-10, G2 5&5 Polished Aluminum covering. Custom Build for me. Great Steel.
Clinesmith Joaquin Murphy style Aluminum 8 String Lap Steel Short A6th.
Magnatone Jeweltone Series Lap Steel, Circa 1950? 6 String with F#minor7th Tuning.
1956 Dewey Kendrick D-8 4&3, Restoration Project.
1973 Sho~Bud Green SD-10 4&5 PSG, Restoration Project.
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Charley Bond


From:
Inola, OK, USA
Post  Posted 5 Jun 2017 11:03 am     Red Birdseye Sierra
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The Red Birdseye Sierra I had was being shipped back to me. UPS dropped it & it was busted up pretty bad, as Don Christensen told me. So I bought a new U-12 (with pad).
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