Jake Bopp wrote:Now you're just rubbing it in, Bob. 😀
Of course he is, lol.
This thread really makes me miss my 83' S-10 Sierra, 5 & 4. It was a fantastic guitar. Eventually, traded it in on a D-10 Sierra, which I loved...but I wish I could have kept the S-10 as well.
My D-10 weighs 60 lb., and 90 in the case.
Sierras are heavy, yes... but that's what they make hand carts for...
How might that compare to my '74 Sho-Bud 6160 S-12? I'm kind of new and just bought this bud. Moved up from a Carter Starter. It's a nice improvement, and I tend to like the different levers (E lever is on RKL instead of LKR) and I'm loving the 12 strings (I'm a guitar player), it's Extended E9. But it's old and pedals seem super sensitive (it's 3x4) - if I don't really push them all the way down then it's not on pitch. Just thinking I might have done better ($1500). Seems pretty solid, definitely looks it's age, especially underneath.
I don't know the weight of the 'Bud. Probably lighter--it's on a single body. I suggest finding a steel guitar player/tech to help you set the guitar up. It can be made to play real well. Great tone too. Parts are available online for those. I played a Pro-1 model S10 Sho~Bud for about 20 years.
I agree with John on that Sho-Bud, as far as going over it a bit & setting it up for you, maybe looking at the changer to see if it is in need of a cleaning. My first steel was a Sho-Bud S-10, 6 pedals, 1 knee. Always loved their sound.
I'm sure a bit of fine tuning and adjustment will make you very happy with that one.
John Russell wrote:Scott, if you do all that and still aren't happy, contact me. I turned down a deal on a Sho~Bud S12 over 20 years ago and regretted it ever since.
Thanks, Mike. That looks pretty sweet. It's got the good undercarriage. If I bought it, there goes a couple of weeks of my life adding the changes I need for my setup--and several hundred bucks. Tempting. Considering the cost of a new, natural finish guitar that looks that good, very tempting.
I had my instructor, Pete Grant, help me with some adjustments and it's playing pretty sweet now. Amazing why a few minor tweaks here and there can do! And the tone is the real effin' deal. I played it through his Telonics and, oh man, what a sound. Even with my playing! When he got on it, fuggetaboutit.
The one on e-bay is nice. Undercarriage is a little cleaner than mine but that case....sheesh...can you say road-worn? My case is in great shape.
What's the foam in the undercarriage for? Just to dampen the rod movement noise?
Great guitars...in 1978 I worked at a keyboard and guitar shop in North London U.K. I asked the owner if we could sell steel guitars.We got hold of Don Christionson (spell). This was in Portland Oregon. We ordered 8 Sierras. Some 10 strings and 2 Single 12's. We sold the lot in a short space of time. Heavy..yes, but so well made
i have played a 10 string session for the last 12 years....light n stays in tune waaaay better than i do....also i've beat it up pretty good......n still plays great.....love sierra guitars
Micky Byrne wrote:Great guitars...in 1978 I worked at a keyboard and guitar shop in North London U.K. I asked the owner if we could sell steel guitars.We got hold of Don Christionson (spell). This was in Portland Oregon. We ordered 8 Sierras. Some 10 strings and 2 Single 12's. We sold the lot in a short space of time. Heavy..yes, but so well made
I don't remember having a 12 string keyed Sierra. I bought 3 new keyless Sierra Session guitars and I bought a used 12 string keyless just to get the Danny Shields pickup then gave the guitar to a friend.
I traded a guitar for a keyed Sierra Double neck but only had it a short time. I always had it in my mind to play a U-12 keyed Sierra to hear the difference between both guitars.
Mine should be here Tuesday, I'm looking forward to joining the club. It looks like I'm getting an s12 pre-rp mullen too, but I think I'll have to adjust the copedent when I get it.
I'm a little salty about not getting that steel Dan got. It's ok though, I bought a BMI s-10 the next day. Getting a full setup and stuff before it gets mailed down to me.
4x4 with the Franklin change. Pretty straight forward, I'm sure it'll be beneficial starting out where the most information exists for beginners. It's a nice guitar, and I don't think I could have purchased it from a nicer guy. I plan on documenting my journey on YouTube. There's nothing like that on there, someone's day one setting up the steel and noodling around - then whatever progress I make as I post videos.
So I've got the guitar, and it's great. It is in fair shape, but I am going to clean the changer when I get a chance. I've got a couple questions though:
1. What are these holes for? The discs behind the changer?
2. Only the middle coil works on this, and one of the selling points of this guitar was I thought it was a humbucker. How would I go about changing this to work as a humbucker? Ideally I'd like to be able to switch back and forth, but if I only get one it's definitely the 'bucker.