Switching a plain 6th to wound
Moderator: Shoshanah Marohn
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Switching a plain 6th to wound
Hi,hopefully I can get some pointers on this; On my GFI ultra i'd like to try a wound .022 in place of the plain .020- I had good luck on my Fesse,the problem being the split with the B pedal; The fesse has split screws on the changer- pretty straight forward; I had a rod installed for the split on the GFI.. there's a compensator to the A pedal so all 3 raises are spoken for. Is there a sequence I need to go thru or ??
any help would be appreciated, thanks.
any help would be appreciated, thanks.
Fessy SD10 GFI ultra SD10 lots of basses and amps
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Jon-thanks for the reply- I didn't think of not needing the compensator; with the plain I was getting about a 15-20 cent drop with the A/F combination. so..since I already have the split rod, is it just a matter of getting more throw on the bellcrank and/or moving the lever stop with the wound string?
Fessy SD10 GFI ultra SD10 lots of basses and amps
I'm a little confused but let me just address the things I am solid on.
You need more throw and/or leverage with the wound 6th string. On my Fessenden, the G#>F# lower lever requires a VERY long throw (as compared with a plain string). In fact, for this reason I have changed back to a plain 6th and then changed back again to the wound because of how much more stable it is re: cabinet drop.
And the B pedal may or may not need a leverage change---how the raise syncs with the 3rd string will be the biggest issue that might require changing the bellcrank hole/slot.
You need more throw and/or leverage with the wound 6th string. On my Fessenden, the G#>F# lower lever requires a VERY long throw (as compared with a plain string). In fact, for this reason I have changed back to a plain 6th and then changed back again to the wound because of how much more stable it is re: cabinet drop.
And the B pedal may or may not need a leverage change---how the raise syncs with the 3rd string will be the biggest issue that might require changing the bellcrank hole/slot.
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Jon-I reread my original post- I wasn't very clear about my question-sorry about that. When I got the guitar I had Billy Cooper add the split- the compensator came later. I did try a wound string at some point and got the full drop by moving the stop. the problem was I couldn't get the split to do what it needed to do- I'd set it and the open string would be sharp. I eventually bailed on it and put the plain string back on. I didn't want to start moving rods in the bell crank,I probably would have messed it up completely. Anyway, hope this is clearer, thanks
Fessy SD10 GFI ultra SD10 lots of basses and amps
Part of my confusion is that I use the word compensator for a rod, for instance, from the A pedal to the 6th string, raising it slightly to compensate for cabinet drop. This is the rod that I was suggesting might no longer be necessary with the wound 6.
I really don't want to attempt to address the rest of your post here. Too much chance of getting way out of whack and giving bad info without having my hands on guitar.
I really don't want to attempt to address the rest of your post here. Too much chance of getting way out of whack and giving bad info without having my hands on guitar.
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It will also keep the tuning more stable, especially one with a bunch of cabinet drop.Quentin Hickey wrote:What are the advantages of a wound .022 over plain .020?
Downside, It needs more travel (especially the lower)
Edit: (Georg, I just re read your post. Sorry to repeat.)
Emmons/Sho~Bud/Blanton, Fender/Peavey.
Telonics pedal
Telonics pedal
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- richard burton
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It might be worth me mentioning, if only for information, how I did a simple modification to an all-pull steel many years ago, to get the changer to drop a wound 6th string a full tone.
The changer finger did not have enough travel to lower a full tone, but I realised that it had an abundance of travel in the raise direction, so I held the finger in a partially raised state by using a spring loaded device, and this was now the open note position.
Thus, I could still raise the note a half tone, and, by lowering the raise to its normal open position, and pulling the lower simultaneously, I could easily get a full tone lower.
The changer finger did not have enough travel to lower a full tone, but I realised that it had an abundance of travel in the raise direction, so I held the finger in a partially raised state by using a spring loaded device, and this was now the open note position.
Thus, I could still raise the note a half tone, and, by lowering the raise to its normal open position, and pulling the lower simultaneously, I could easily get a full tone lower.
I remember reading once that the wound string sounds better on older guitars, and I can bear this out. I have an ancient pull-release D10 with single-coil pickups, and the wound 6th with the 6-8-10 grip gives a fine baritone growl. When I went to a 12-string universal I sought to replicate that but a plain string actually sounded better. Whether the difference is in the type of mechanism or the type of pickup (or both) I cannot say, but coincidentally on the B6 side of the tuning that string corresponds to the 4th (A) on the C6, and who would put a wound on there?Georg Sørtun wrote:For me it is all about "tone", "tone" and "tone", but it doesn't hurt that a wound 6th string is less sensitive to bodydrop detuning than a plain one.Quentin Hickey wrote:What are the advantages of a wound .022 over plain .020?
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Homebuilt keyless U12 7x5, Excel keyless U12 8x8, Williams keyless U12 7x8, Telonics rack and 15" cabs
Homebuilt keyless U12 7x5, Excel keyless U12 8x8, Williams keyless U12 7x8, Telonics rack and 15" cabs
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I'm with you Georg I'm all about the tone. I am assuming it will warm up the tone a bit. I will try this on my gfi ultra.Georg Sørtun wrote:For me it is all about "tone", "tone" and "tone", but it doesn't hurt that a wound 6th string is less sensitive to bodydrop detuning than a plain one.Quentin Hickey wrote:What are the advantages of a wound .022 over plain .020?