Officially on the hunt for first steel. Any Help
Moderator: Shoshanah Marohn
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Officially on the hunt for first steel. Any Help
Hi,
Okay, looks like I may be able to purchase a steel a little sooner than I thought.
So, I dedicate this thread to a birage of newbie type questions on possible steel purchases, so please bere with me.
Saw this sho bud on ebay. Says it is a crossover model. Is this anything comparible to the Pro II?
Here is the link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3757154117
Sorry, don't know how to link directly, may have to put in your browser bar.
If anybody sees anything out there that would be a good "pro-level" steel for beginner who has a lot of music background to begin on. Please post it here.
Thanks for the help.
And any info on what the difference is between a push/pull and a regular steel would be appreciated.
Steve
Okay, looks like I may be able to purchase a steel a little sooner than I thought.
So, I dedicate this thread to a birage of newbie type questions on possible steel purchases, so please bere with me.
Saw this sho bud on ebay. Says it is a crossover model. Is this anything comparible to the Pro II?
Here is the link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=3757154117
Sorry, don't know how to link directly, may have to put in your browser bar.
If anybody sees anything out there that would be a good "pro-level" steel for beginner who has a lot of music background to begin on. Please post it here.
Thanks for the help.
And any info on what the difference is between a push/pull and a regular steel would be appreciated.
Steve
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HELLO STEVE,you don't want that steel,cross overs will not stay in tune.this is the 2nd time that steel has been on ebay.there is lots of good steels these days.if you don't know how to work on them,you are better to get a later model.I know you'll get a lots of different ideas.ZUM STEEL,EMMONS,SHO-BUD
CARTER,FRANKLIN,Several more are top guitars.Look on nashville steel guitars,at different steels,Bobbe Seymore is a great dealer.and has new and used steels.I would recommend buying from a dealer,because if you have any trouble,they will take care of it,if you buy one from ebay,its yours!!
sure you might get a better price,but if it don't work,and isn't set up right you've got big troubles.sho-bud pro 2 is a great guitar if,its in good shape.I won't say no more,not trying to influnce you in anyway,
push and pulls are OK,if you want to have it worked on and set up right.not a good beginner guitar.hard to mash pedal.really look and ask before you jump in.if you get something,and it don't play right,then you got big troubles.Been there,done that.Good LUCK. farris
CARTER,FRANKLIN,Several more are top guitars.Look on nashville steel guitars,at different steels,Bobbe Seymore is a great dealer.and has new and used steels.I would recommend buying from a dealer,because if you have any trouble,they will take care of it,if you buy one from ebay,its yours!!
sure you might get a better price,but if it don't work,and isn't set up right you've got big troubles.sho-bud pro 2 is a great guitar if,its in good shape.I won't say no more,not trying to influnce you in anyway,
push and pulls are OK,if you want to have it worked on and set up right.not a good beginner guitar.hard to mash pedal.really look and ask before you jump in.if you get something,and it don't play right,then you got big troubles.Been there,done that.Good LUCK. farris
- Les Pierce
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Well, I'd like to put my 2 cents in for a Dekley. I've been playing one for about 6 years. It was old and very used when I got it, and everything still works great. These steels usually sell for a good price, and are made like tanks. There is nothing to wear out. Everything is engineered above and beyond what it needed to be.
I don't know why they don't get a higher recomendation from the folks on the forum. Everyone who has, or has had one, has nothing but good to say about it. I think it would be an ideal pro model steel for a biginner to start out on.
I wouldn't let it bother me that it doesn't carry a familiar name. It was a very popular, and reliable guitar in it's time, and is still as reliable as when it was new. Stays in tune, and has minimal cabinet drop, too.
Les
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Strat,Tele
Dekley S-10
I don't know why they don't get a higher recomendation from the folks on the forum. Everyone who has, or has had one, has nothing but good to say about it. I think it would be an ideal pro model steel for a biginner to start out on.
I wouldn't let it bother me that it doesn't carry a familiar name. It was a very popular, and reliable guitar in it's time, and is still as reliable as when it was new. Stays in tune, and has minimal cabinet drop, too.
Les
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Strat,Tele
Dekley S-10
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Thanks for the info on that steel and buying steels in general. That is why I wanted to join this forum. I actually live in St. Louis and plan to run by Scotty's Monday to check some stuff out.
And I will look into the Dekleys as well.<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Steve Howard on 23 October 2004 at 09:02 PM.]</p></FONT>
And I will look into the Dekleys as well.<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Steve Howard on 23 October 2004 at 09:02 PM.]</p></FONT>
- Ernest Cawby
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I have played a crossover at a friends house several Saturday nights.
Had not been played for years, strings rusty, not a scratch on it.
I did not use the crossover, just played the E9th neck with pedals and the C6 neck without pedals, it stayed in tune very well doing this, from week to week. It is a great sounding guitar but not for beginners, becouse the crossover mecanics will not stay in tune, to many moving parts.
Lots of old guitars are good, MSA,Dekley,
MCI, Marlin.
My idea would be a Sho-bud Profewssional, since I own one bought in 1973 new and has never been repaired or worked on for any reASON, STAYS IN TUNE, But, the sucker is heavy.
If you want a light guitar go with Carter A very good light weight guitar. John LeMasters plays one and it sounds as good as any guitar I haVE heard.
ernie
Had not been played for years, strings rusty, not a scratch on it.
I did not use the crossover, just played the E9th neck with pedals and the C6 neck without pedals, it stayed in tune very well doing this, from week to week. It is a great sounding guitar but not for beginners, becouse the crossover mecanics will not stay in tune, to many moving parts.
Lots of old guitars are good, MSA,Dekley,
MCI, Marlin.
My idea would be a Sho-bud Profewssional, since I own one bought in 1973 new and has never been repaired or worked on for any reASON, STAYS IN TUNE, But, the sucker is heavy.
If you want a light guitar go with Carter A very good light weight guitar. John LeMasters plays one and it sounds as good as any guitar I haVE heard.
ernie
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Well,
I went over to www.steelguitar.net and looked in the "Other Guitars" section and saw a double neck MSA for 1200. If MSA is on the "okay" list, why is this one so cheap?
There was also a ZB Custom D-10 there for 1200. What is the word on this brand?
What it sounds like I can't go wrong with so far is any Sho Bud Pro I. I would be very happy to get one of these if I can find one, but I have a lot to learn I can see.
I went over to www.steelguitar.net and looked in the "Other Guitars" section and saw a double neck MSA for 1200. If MSA is on the "okay" list, why is this one so cheap?
There was also a ZB Custom D-10 there for 1200. What is the word on this brand?
What it sounds like I can't go wrong with so far is any Sho Bud Pro I. I would be very happy to get one of these if I can find one, but I have a lot to learn I can see.
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- Jim Peters
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Steve, ive been playing about a year, and can tell you from experience not to buy a ZB unless you have a friend who will work on it for you. They are great guitars if set up by a pro, but they are not for a beginner IMHO. I bought a GFI ultra(used) thru the forum, it is the smartest thing i could do. Scotties has GFIs, and Don Curtis knows them inside out. E mail me next time you go up there, I live 5 minutes away, and I'll meet you there.
- CrowBear Schmitt
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Well Jim, I beg to differ. but it might be a one off experience. I bought my first steel (A ZB) off e-bay from the US. Had to transport it out here in two shippings as the vendor did not wish to ship outside the US. When I got it from the air express company and opened the case I was very down cast. There were bits of pull rods loose etc. I had not seen the working of a steel before .... and had the baby singing like a bird within a week. These intruments are very robust.
- CrowBear Schmitt
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here's a nice ShoBud Pro I 3/3 at 1200 $ by a reliable seller http://www.allsteelguitar.com/usedsteels_main.htm <FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by CrowBear Schmitt on 24 October 2004 at 07:17 AM.]</p></FONT>
- Jim Peters
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Pat, ZB's are great steels, I just don't have the time to learn steel, work 40 hrs at a day job, play 75 to 100 times a year in my band, take jazz lessons, paint portraits, AND work on the ZB. If he can find one setup already, I would say go for it, or if he is very patient or has a lot of time(retired). But for a 1st guitar, I think there are better choices. I'm glad it worked for you, I just didn't have the time. JimP
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- Jim Peters
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- Larry Jamieson
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Hello Steve, a used MSA in good condition is usually a bargain. Rex Lindsey has one for sale on the Forum right now for $950, says it is a great guitar. These are built like a tank, solid, always stay in tune, and play very easily. I have two guitars, a new Zum, and a 1978 MSA. If you didn't find something at Scotty's check with Rex on his MSA... Good luck!
- Damir Besic
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if I was just starting I would get either MSA (because you can get them for a great price and even tho guitar doesn`t have a reputation of a great sounding instrument i still think they are underpriced) or a Sho~Bud , Pro I is a great choice and you can find them under 1K, if I was looking for a new guitar I would go with GFI.Great price,very good tone,modern mechanics and lite.That would actualy be my advice.Go with a new D-10 GFI and it will serve you for many years.
Db
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"Promat"
~when tone matters~
Db
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"Promat"
~when tone matters~
You will want to assess your enthusiasm, dedication and musical interests up-front in the purchase process. Does Texas Swing or complex jazz chords get you going? That will have an impact on what steel you will want (need?) to have in one year's time.
Further - if you have habitual GAS (eg. Gear Acquisition Syndrome !)be forewarned that going "half-way" on your first steel will compel you to a trade/upgrade after you've roughly figured out the basics of the instrument.
Consider spending a few hundred $$ more to get a full-featured steel that will help thwart off GAS - which, incidently is the single biggest excuse to spend more time surfing than practicing. 3x3 will leave you with buyers regret as soon as you download your first piece of tab. You will ask, what the h%!! is an "X-lever" or "G-lever" and then good luck trying to find a song that doesn't use it....
If you buy a good used instrument at a fair price, the depreciation will be nil, so as an investment - differences in 'real cost' is purely hypothetical (except if you have a starving family, of course...).
My own experience was upgrading from a 3x4 E9 to a 5x7 U12 almost as soon as I learned how to push A+B together. Both MSA's I purchased were professional model. MSA is a good value for dollar play, and the quality is as good as the others. No regrets.
After some time, you will get real curious about copedant design and try to optimize to something that really works for you. I've migrated to a 5x5 from the 5x7, for instance.
Hope this was helpful for your thinking process.<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Tom Gorr on 24 October 2004 at 03:17 PM.]</p></FONT>
Further - if you have habitual GAS (eg. Gear Acquisition Syndrome !)be forewarned that going "half-way" on your first steel will compel you to a trade/upgrade after you've roughly figured out the basics of the instrument.
Consider spending a few hundred $$ more to get a full-featured steel that will help thwart off GAS - which, incidently is the single biggest excuse to spend more time surfing than practicing. 3x3 will leave you with buyers regret as soon as you download your first piece of tab. You will ask, what the h%!! is an "X-lever" or "G-lever" and then good luck trying to find a song that doesn't use it....
If you buy a good used instrument at a fair price, the depreciation will be nil, so as an investment - differences in 'real cost' is purely hypothetical (except if you have a starving family, of course...).
My own experience was upgrading from a 3x4 E9 to a 5x7 U12 almost as soon as I learned how to push A+B together. Both MSA's I purchased were professional model. MSA is a good value for dollar play, and the quality is as good as the others. No regrets.
After some time, you will get real curious about copedant design and try to optimize to something that really works for you. I've migrated to a 5x5 from the 5x7, for instance.
Hope this was helpful for your thinking process.<FONT SIZE=1 COLOR="#8e236b"><p align=CENTER>[This message was edited by Tom Gorr on 24 October 2004 at 03:17 PM.]</p></FONT>
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We have steel guitars for sale from time to time at www.cajunsteelguitar.com
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Daniel J. Cormier
MCI D-10 , Peavey Sessions 500 & 400 Limited ,Nashville 400
http://www.cajunsteelguitar.com email at djcormier@cox-internet.com
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Daniel J. Cormier
MCI D-10 , Peavey Sessions 500 & 400 Limited ,Nashville 400
http://www.cajunsteelguitar.com email at djcormier@cox-internet.com
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I started with a '76 MSA Classic S-10, and still have it as a back-up. Mine is one of the birdseye maple models, making it a beautiful guitar. Most people think the formica models (with plywood bodies) don't sound quite as good.
At some point you would probably want to change out the original pickup(S); so, if this hasn't been done already, factor in another $100 (per pickup) on top of the purchase price.
I have a Jerry Wallace True-Tone single-coil on mine, which sounds great and cost only $75.
The MSA's were mechanically superb. Mine stays in tune exceptionally well, and it's very user-friendly.
At $600 to $800 for an S-10, old MSA's are hard to beat for a first guitar.
At some point you would probably want to change out the original pickup(S); so, if this hasn't been done already, factor in another $100 (per pickup) on top of the purchase price.
I have a Jerry Wallace True-Tone single-coil on mine, which sounds great and cost only $75.
The MSA's were mechanically superb. Mine stays in tune exceptionally well, and it's very user-friendly.
At $600 to $800 for an S-10, old MSA's are hard to beat for a first guitar.
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Man, I couldn't be happier with all the info I have gotten here. Thanks.
I am going to Scotty's today. Hopefully get some hands on information on some steels and see if they have anything that looks right for me. Otherwise, I am checking out a couple MSA's that are for sale right here.
I do think maybe a new GFI would be the way to go, but they are a little more pricy than I was looking for. Maybe the sale of my Silverface Vibrolux will offset the cost.
We will see.
Thanks,
Steve
I am going to Scotty's today. Hopefully get some hands on information on some steels and see if they have anything that looks right for me. Otherwise, I am checking out a couple MSA's that are for sale right here.
I do think maybe a new GFI would be the way to go, but they are a little more pricy than I was looking for. Maybe the sale of my Silverface Vibrolux will offset the cost.
We will see.
Thanks,
Steve
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One more thought on this before I check out Scotty's:
My application for steel guitar will be mostly country stuff. It would be cool to be a good enough steel player I could apply it to jazz or blues or something, but I find myself mostly disinterested in those type of band settings anymore. Although I will say I do fear hearing a cool steel song be it country or jazz and then not being able to play it because I don't have the C6. A song that I am curious fall into this category would be "Your Cheating Heart". Was some of this old country stuff done on C6?
Something that was mentioned was getting a U12. Although that sounds like a good idea, I am just curious if I am making things too complicated for myself to start out on. If I get basic learning material, I want to be able to follow it pretty closely. I'm afraid I will be lost in basic learning with a U12 setup. Maybe I'm not giving myself enough credit as a musician to pick it up, but I do fear the steel a bit anyway.
So this being said, I am not ruling out the U12 or D-10 at a good price. There is currently an MSA D-10 on the forum for $1500. I asked for some more information and pics on it.
My application for steel guitar will be mostly country stuff. It would be cool to be a good enough steel player I could apply it to jazz or blues or something, but I find myself mostly disinterested in those type of band settings anymore. Although I will say I do fear hearing a cool steel song be it country or jazz and then not being able to play it because I don't have the C6. A song that I am curious fall into this category would be "Your Cheating Heart". Was some of this old country stuff done on C6?
Something that was mentioned was getting a U12. Although that sounds like a good idea, I am just curious if I am making things too complicated for myself to start out on. If I get basic learning material, I want to be able to follow it pretty closely. I'm afraid I will be lost in basic learning with a U12 setup. Maybe I'm not giving myself enough credit as a musician to pick it up, but I do fear the steel a bit anyway.
So this being said, I am not ruling out the U12 or D-10 at a good price. There is currently an MSA D-10 on the forum for $1500. I asked for some more information and pics on it.