New Double 8 build (video added)

J D Sauser · Post by **J D Sauser** » 31 Jul 2015 10:23 am

Beautiful Steel.
But I have to ask: WHAT is the thinking behind the large diameter bridge?
Just "easy" to build... or?
I ask, because the large diameter bridge is in my opinion the #1 tonal issue on pedal steel guitars when compared to non-pedal steels.

Thanks!... J-D.

Jerry Gleason · Post by **Jerry Gleason** » 31 Jul 2015 10:47 am

Well, that's a good question. The bridge is 1/2" aluminum rod. I also made a set of brass bridges, but so far, I still like what I'm hearing from the aluminum bridge.

In part, yes, it's a pretty easy build. I prefer the stings to be 1/2" off the top of the guitar, and this is an easy (and I think attractive) way to do it. It's threaded and bolted to the neck from underneath. I've made several guitars with that bridge and I always like the way they sound. In my other guitars, I used brass because I believed that the extra mass was important for good sustain. With the aluminum bridge in this guitar, the sustain is still great, but the tone is possibly a little brighter and the attack slightly "snappier" for lack of a better word.

Pedal steel guitars, at least mine, and all the others I've seen use a much larger diameter finger. I'm not sure you can really compare a solid bar with a pedal steel changer even if the diameter was the same, considering all the parts and mechanics involved that affect the sound.

As far as I'm concerned, the diameter or shape of the bridge doesn't really matter unless the contact point is so gradual or irregular as to cause a buzz. Just my two cents, anyway.

Thanks again for all the great feedback.

Jan, maybe I'll get to work on another CD sometime. So far, I'm just giving it away on the internet.

J D Sauser · Post by **J D Sauser** » 1 Aug 2015 4:42 am

Thanks Jerry.
I remember the one FENDER non-pedal steel Jerry Byrd ever appeared with (black S8)... One thing Fender always used -and I think the rational was easy of production- was the rod bridge. THAT was one of the main things Jerry had Fender change to a "pyramid"-edge bridge on his.

Yes the radius on most Pedal Steels' changer bridge is larger and in my opinion it's the main tonal issue, when compared to a non-pedal steel.

Thanks for your answer! ... J-D.

Jerry Gleason wrote:Well, that's a good question. The bridge is 1/2" aluminum rod. I also made a set of brass bridges, but so far, I still like what I'm hearing from the aluminum bridge.

In part, yes, it's a pretty easy build. I prefer the stings to be 1/2" off the top of the guitar, and this is an easy (and I think attractive) way to do it. It's threaded and bolted to the neck from underneath. I've made several guitars with that bridge and I always like the way they sound. In my other guitars, I used brass because I believed that the extra mass was important for good sustain. With the aluminum bridge in this guitar, the sustain is still great, but the tone is possibly a little brighter and the attack slightly "snappier" for lack of a better word.

Pedal steel guitars, at least mine, and all the others I've seen use a much larger diameter finger. I'm not sure you can really compare a solid bar with a pedal steel changer even if the diameter was the same, considering all the parts and mechanics involved that affect the sound.

As far as I'm concerned, the diameter or shape of the bridge doesn't really matter unless the contact point is so gradual or irregular as to cause a buzz. Just my two cents, anyway.

Thanks again for all the great feedback.

Jan, maybe I'll get to work on another CD sometime. So far, I'm just giving it away on the internet.

Mike Neer · Post by **Mike Neer** » 1 Aug 2015 4:50 am

You sound great, Jerry. Kudos!

C. E. Jackson · Post by **C. E. Jackson** » 1 Aug 2015 9:41 am

Jerry, beautiful steel and great sound. Thanks for posting.

C. E.

Doug Beaumier · Post by **Doug Beaumier** » 1 Aug 2015 10:34 am

Nice playing and nice steel guitar, Jerry!

Jerry Gleason · Post by **Jerry Gleason** » 1 Aug 2015 1:05 pm

Thanks again, everyone! I might even be inspired to build another one sometime!

Larry Dering · Post by **Larry Dering** » 3 Aug 2015 5:40 pm

Jerry that was fantastic. Love the build, tone and your fine playing. Makes me envious. Super good! PS, I subscribed to your channel.

Steve Cunningham · Post by **Steve Cunningham** » 3 Aug 2015 7:53 pm

Great playing/tone, Jerry!

Jerry Gleason · Post by **Jerry Gleason** » 3 Aug 2015 11:51 pm

This forum needs a "like" button! Thanks again for the nice comments!

Don McGregor · Post by **Don McGregor** » 5 Aug 2015 6:48 am

Jerry,
Beautiful workmanship, and beautiful playing. I am inspired by both.
After listening to Oscarism, I went back and viewed some of your other videos. I had seen some of them before, but do not get tired of them.
Would it be possible to get a chord chart of Oscarism? I can hear most of it, but a few details of the changes have so far eluded me. It feels like it's right on the edge of being something I could decently work up, and like working through some of Mike Neer's lessons, it always helps me to stretch my limits and learn from the exercise even if it takes quite a while for me to actually learn the piece.
Is this a straight C6 tuning?
Also, I have never built and instrument with a slotted neck, and am curious to know what tuners you chose for this.
Are both necks nested in a solid piece of what looks like Mahogany? The center section actually looks more like Walnut in the photos. What potentiometers did you use for the Alumitones?
BTW, I am going through chemo therapy at present, and this video has started my day off right.
Thank you.

Jerry Gleason · Post by **Jerry Gleason** » 5 Aug 2015 11:31 am

Thank you so much, Don. I sent you a PM. Yes, the tuning is basically C6th with a high G. There's also Bb on the bottom, but it's not needed for that tune.

This was the first time I have made a slotted keyhead, also. The tuners are just a generic Kluson reproduction. The posts don't completely span the slot, as some tuners designed for slotted heads do, but that's the way the old Magnatones were, so I figured it would be fine, and it is. I tried to find some that had the end tabs cut off, like the inline Fenders, but I couldn't find any in a right / left side style.

Although Lace recommends 250k pots for Alumitone pickups, I prefer 500k, so that's what I used for both volume and tone. .22uf orange drop cap for the tone pot.

As for wood, the necks are maple, and the lower deck is solid Sapele. You're right, there is a thin strip of 1/8" walnut between the necks. Good eye. Sapele is not a very dense wood, which makes the guitar fairly light compared to my other D8's. Below is a shot of the underside.

Sorry to hear about the Chemo. I wish you the best.

Don McGregor · Post by **Don McGregor** » 5 Aug 2015 12:15 pm

Thanks, Jerry.
I've got some African Mahogany wide enough for the body of a similar build, and just may try it. I love the old Magnatones, too, and BTW, I vote for the white finger boards.
I want to try the Alumitones, too.

Dennis Junge · Post by **Dennis Junge** » 5 Aug 2015 7:45 pm

Absolutely sweet! Music and craftsmanship. Inspirational!

Larry Lenhart · Post by **Larry Lenhart** » 22 Aug 2015 4:53 pm

Great looking steel and great playing on both steel and guitar ! Your guitar looks like it might be an Eastman...am I correct ? You sent me a cd years ago of your guitar and steel playing...it is fantastic and a real inspiration ! And you build steels too ! it aint fair for one person to be so talented !!! Thanks for posting.

Jerry Gleason · Post by **Jerry Gleason** » 22 Aug 2015 9:06 pm

Thanks again! Larry, yes, that's my Eastman archtop in the video.

Bob Stone · Post by **Bob Stone** » 24 Aug 2015 6:14 am

Jerry,

Kudos. The instrument, your playing, the composition, and the video are all excellent. Bravo!

Keep 'em coming.

Bob