E lower comes back sharp?
Moderator: Shoshanah Marohn
E lower comes back sharp?
I noticed that when I release my E lower lever the string comes back sharp. If I follow it up with an E raise, the string comes back in tune after I release the lever. I bet others have had this issue. Any suggestions? My guitar is a Williams S10.
Edited to add this detail - this issue only happens with the 4th string. No problem with string 8.
Edited to add this detail - this issue only happens with the 4th string. No problem with string 8.
Williams S-10, Beard R-model, Gibson BR-4 lap steel, Fender lap steel, Brownface Princeton, Goodsell Custom 33, 70's Tele Thinline, Fubar Twangmaster, Fubar Custom Buckarooster, Collings CJ Mh flattop
- Henry Matthews
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I'd say that doing it on 4th string, you need to tighten up you return spring on that string. The wound strings tend to do that just because of the wounds that gather on top on changer finger which is normal but usually not an unwound string like the 4th.
Henry Matthews
D-10 Magnum, 8 &5, dark rose color
D-10 1974 Emmons cut tail, fat back,rosewood, 8&5
Nashville 112 amp, Fishman Loudbox Performer amp, Hilton pedal, Goodrich pedal,BJS bar, Kyser picks, Live steel Strings. No effects, doodads or stomp boxes.
D-10 Magnum, 8 &5, dark rose color
D-10 1974 Emmons cut tail, fat back,rosewood, 8&5
Nashville 112 amp, Fishman Loudbox Performer amp, Hilton pedal, Goodrich pedal,BJS bar, Kyser picks, Live steel Strings. No effects, doodads or stomp boxes.
Thanks for the reply Henry. I thought about tightening the return spring but, since the string is coming back up from the lower, and ending up sharp, it seemed like the return spring is plenty tight. The fact that, after the string has gone sharp, if I operate and then release the E raise, the open string ends up back at the original pitch (not sharp anymore) sort of confuses me a little.
Williams S-10, Beard R-model, Gibson BR-4 lap steel, Fender lap steel, Brownface Princeton, Goodsell Custom 33, 70's Tele Thinline, Fubar Twangmaster, Fubar Custom Buckarooster, Collings CJ Mh flattop
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- chris ivey
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this is common hysteresis, probably. has been going on forever. are you mainly seeing it on your electronic tuner? can you hear it? it's generally a very small bit and when people see their tuner reading sharp they freak out.
most steels do it.
make sure your roller nut on that string is free and lubed. roll it to another position.
my '82 zum has a balance system built into the changer that helps this problem. if later models don't have it, i don't know why. it's great.
if you can't hear it, don't worry about it.
most steels do it.
make sure your roller nut on that string is free and lubed. roll it to another position.
my '82 zum has a balance system built into the changer that helps this problem. if later models don't have it, i don't know why. it's great.
if you can't hear it, don't worry about it.
- Earnest Bovine
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Make sure the roller nut moves freely. Feel how it turns by hand, and try a drop of oil.
When you raise the E to F or F#, the additional tension overcomes the sticky roller nut and pulls the string there to the right.
It would be just as accurate for you to say that your 4th string returns flat from a raise.
Yes. Your logic is correct.John Owen wrote: I thought about tightening the return spring but, since the string is coming back up from the lower, and ending up sharp, it seemed like the return spring is plenty tight.
When you lower pitch, tension is less, and the string moves a little to the left. A little bit of string moves to the left at the roller nut. When you release the lower, the string should move back to the right. If the roller nut is sticky, it doesn't move all the way back. Lower tension remains to the left of the roller nut, and higher tension (higher pitch) on the right side of the roller, which is the part that you hear.John Owen wrote: The fact that, after the string has gone sharp, if I operate and then release the E raise, the open string ends up back at the original pitch (not sharp anymore) sort of confuses me a little.
When you raise the E to F or F#, the additional tension overcomes the sticky roller nut and pulls the string there to the right.
It would be just as accurate for you to say that your 4th string returns flat from a raise.
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Beautifully put, Earnest. Succinct and accurate. It's less of a problem with keyless, because of the reduced string length behind the roller nut.
Williams 700 series keyless U12,
Sierra keyless U14, Eezzee-Slide & BJS bars
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Sierra keyless U14, Eezzee-Slide & BJS bars
Moth-eaten old Marshall 150 combo
Roland Cube 80XL, Peterson Strobo+HD,
EarthQuaker Despatch Master for reverb / delay
- chris ivey
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Thanks Earnest! That is a great explanation. Much appreciated.
I'll fool around with the roller nut and give it a little lube. It actually is a big enough drift to easily hear so definitely worth monkeying around with it to resolve.
I'll fool around with the roller nut and give it a little lube. It actually is a big enough drift to easily hear so definitely worth monkeying around with it to resolve.
Williams S-10, Beard R-model, Gibson BR-4 lap steel, Fender lap steel, Brownface Princeton, Goodsell Custom 33, 70's Tele Thinline, Fubar Twangmaster, Fubar Custom Buckarooster, Collings CJ Mh flattop
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- Henry Matthews
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Nicely said Earnest, that is why I try to keep my strings as strait as I can from roller nuts to tuners. Not always possible but straiter they are, the more In tune they stay.
Henry Matthews
D-10 Magnum, 8 &5, dark rose color
D-10 1974 Emmons cut tail, fat back,rosewood, 8&5
Nashville 112 amp, Fishman Loudbox Performer amp, Hilton pedal, Goodrich pedal,BJS bar, Kyser picks, Live steel Strings. No effects, doodads or stomp boxes.
D-10 Magnum, 8 &5, dark rose color
D-10 1974 Emmons cut tail, fat back,rosewood, 8&5
Nashville 112 amp, Fishman Loudbox Performer amp, Hilton pedal, Goodrich pedal,BJS bar, Kyser picks, Live steel Strings. No effects, doodads or stomp boxes.
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Make sure the string is pulling in a straight line. If the nut roller is being pulled sideways, even just a little bit, the problem will be worse. Keep in mind that being a few cents out, which will easily show up on a tuner, really doesn't affect playability. If it's more that 4 or 5 cents, then you have a problem that should be addressed.
I spun the roller nut a little, put a little lube in there, spun it a little more and now it sounds good when coming back from both the raise and the lower. Total time to perform the servicing was probably 34 seconds! Thanks again to Earnest for the great advice. It's always nice to be able to fix a problem that easily AND learn something about the maintenance of the guitar at the same time.
Williams S-10, Beard R-model, Gibson BR-4 lap steel, Fender lap steel, Brownface Princeton, Goodsell Custom 33, 70's Tele Thinline, Fubar Twangmaster, Fubar Custom Buckarooster, Collings CJ Mh flattop
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chris ivey wrote:what..everyone likes earnest better than me?
Damir Besic wrote:I think little oil would help...
Last edited by Charlie McDonald on 21 Mar 2015 9:22 am, edited 1 time in total.
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BINGO!!Paul Sutherland wrote:Welcome to the world of hysteresis; the problem most of us didn't know we had until we got an electronic tuner.
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2019 Sierra U12 Pedal Steel
2011 Bear Creek MK Weissenborn
Milkman 40W Mini amps w/Telonics 15" speaker.
Dr. Z Surgical Steel w/TT 15" speaker.
Frenzel MB-50 head.
Spaceman, Empress, Origin, Eventide, Pigtronix.
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