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Post new topic String 6 compensator
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Author Topic:  String 6 compensator
Les Cargill

 

From:
Oklahoma City, Ok, USA
Post  Posted 16 Oct 2014 9:58 am    
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I have a 2-raise 2-lower MSA U12. It's already got a "gizmo" to turn a lower on string 6 into a raise
( for the D#->E on pedal 6 ). No open pulls on the changer for string 6.

I think the only really ugly intonation issue left
on it is the 10 cents in cabinet drop from the A pedal on string 6. I can tune around it. I kinda don't care for this. Maybe I need a tuner with custom offsets to make this more reproducible. I'd really like to just get the thing in relative-Equal Temperament if I can ( relative meaning I can just use the bar to sharp the A pedal-E raise combo into tune ). But as it is now, I kinda have to cycle through open, A+B and A+Elower for a happy medium.

Can I

1) Put a bellcrank on the A pedal rod for string 5 only on string 6 and

2) put together some sort of linkage from that to the A pedal crossrod to this new bellcrank. That probably means another bellcrank on the A pedal crossrod.

3) Have some sort of turnbuckle or a Sho-Bud barrel tuner engage this change in a tune-able way?

What's a better way? Is this just a bit much for the old girl? Maybe this guitar just wants to be ExtE9.
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Jon Light (deceased)


From:
Saugerties, NY
Post  Posted 16 Oct 2014 10:16 am    
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I have messed around with running a pull rod from a bellcrank on one cross shaft to a bellcrank on another cross shaft. It requires cranks that can be pushed or that can be reversed. IMO, lacking an available hole at the changer, this is a viable option, pulling the 6th string cross shaft with the A pedal, from an additional bell crank on the A cross shaft.

Much simpler, I can also suggest changing the 6th string to a wound string, if you are not hooked on a full step lower on 6. It takes a whole lot of the detuning out of the 6.
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 16 Oct 2014 10:26 am    
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What Jon said about the wound string.
Also, if you have a free raise hole on 7 (the uppermost hole), you can put a gizmo sideways.
Or you could always use a Sho-Bud rod and barrels to put unlimited pulls on that string.
_________________
2 pedal steels, a lapStrat, and an 8-string Dobro (and 3 ukes)
More amps than guitars, and not many effects
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Jon Light (deceased)


From:
Saugerties, NY
Post  Posted 16 Oct 2014 11:58 am    
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I'm just fleshing out the idea about two bellcranks, two cross shafts with a shaft-to-shaft pull rod. I totally neglected to mention that this needs to be tunable so it needs either for one end of the rod to be threaded for a nylon tuning nut or it needs an adjustable barrel. AND it needs a bellcrank that the nut or the barrel can butt up against to create a solid point of contact.
On one particularly awkward pull on my loaded Fessenden Jerry bent over the combs of one of his cranks to create a flat edge akin to a changer finger for the nylon tuner to pull on.
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Les Cargill

 

From:
Oklahoma City, Ok, USA
Post  Posted 16 Oct 2014 2:12 pm    
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Jon/Lane - I really like the 0.022w idea. I've thought about that anyway because the unwound is a bit off somehow tonally.

Jon Light wrote:
I'm just fleshing out the idea about two bellcranks, two cross shafts with a shaft-to-shaft pull rod. I totally neglected to mention that this needs to be tunable so it needs either for one end of the rod to be threaded for a nylon tuning nut or it needs an adjustable barrel. AND it needs a bellcrank that the nut or the barrel can butt up against to create a solid point of contact.


Yep! See point 3) above. That sentence was too long.

Quote:

On one particularly awkward pull on my loaded Fessenden Jerry bent over the combs of one of his cranks to create a flat edge akin to a changer finger for the nylon tuner to pull on.


Huh. For MSA bellcranks, you can use the Allen set screw to tie the bellcranks together - no need for anything that radical. That's how the reversers work.
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