A String question
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- Bud Angelotti
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A String question
I recently was given a basket case single neck stringmaster. The other necks, & how many, only god knows where they are. Was it common, back in the day to use flatwounds vs roundwounds? I have a pal who has a stockpile of NOS strings, black diamond & such. We want to use the "right" strings. There are strings on it now, look like they are from the 70's. All electronics work. Havn't decided on a tuning yet. This thing was rode hard.
Thanks in advance!
Cheers - Bud
Thanks in advance!
Cheers - Bud
Just 'cause I look stupid, don't mean I'm not.
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Strings ??
I am no expert but I recall hearing that flat wound strings went dead !! I've always used regular round wound steel strings ,any decent brand , from the early days and I think they work as good as any !! Get a set from b0b on the Forum , he won't steer you wrong !! Good luck with that olde steel !! olde geeze - AKA Eddie "C"
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I'd think the choice of strings would be the least of your worries. That looks like quite a project! Good luck getting it into a playable shape.
Depending on which tuning you're going to use, any modern set of strings will work just fine. There's no need to be historical when it comes to strings.
Depending on which tuning you're going to use, any modern set of strings will work just fine. There's no need to be historical when it comes to strings.
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Re: A String question
Just curious, what are NOS strings? Brand name? Acronym? Google didn't find the anything except "No Strings Attached."Bud Angelotti wrote:I have a pal who has a stockpile of NOS strings
Cheers - Bud
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- Doug Beaumier
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Old strings, 30 or 40 years old, are usually "dead", lifeless, and sometimes rusty. Throw them out and go with new strings.I have a pal who has a stockpile of NOS strings
That guitar is a good candidate for restoration. The main issue I see is the mismatched, replaced tuner. It will be hard to find an original lollipop tuner and they are difficult to repair/install.
- Bud Angelotti
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Thanks for all the replies -
I'll be looking at the NOS strings in the next day or so.
So, round wounds are OK? It had flat wounds on it.
Just want it to be "proper".
I only have the front neck so no volume or tone controls. Also, as only one neck, only two leg sockets.
I'm not gonna change this guitar at all. Just clean it up a bit & leave as is, cigerette burns and all.
What I am gonna do is make four legs, 2 for the guitar as is. Then i'm gonna get a 2X4. yes a 2X4. Drill holes thru the 2X4 to accomadate 1/4" rod so the 2X4 bolts on the back of the guitar as if it was a second neck. Then I can add 2 leck sockets to the 2X4 and the thing will stand up. Then I can screw a board of some type to the 2X4 and set my lap steel on it, like a steel guitar stand. AND if I do it right, I can just use the 2 front legs and stand the guitar onto the front of my S-10 P/P. Voila. I'll have a D neck with 8 no pedals on the front and a P/P on the back, OR use all four legs and It'll have a lap steel stand built in, 8 & 6 with no pedals. Also going to see if we can't make a little box with a volume & tone control.
Not gonna refinish it, not gonna drill any holes in it. The tuners work, even the "white" one. Leave 'em alone.
I'll put up a pic when it's done - already got the 1/4 rod and 2X4!
I'll be looking at the NOS strings in the next day or so.
So, round wounds are OK? It had flat wounds on it.
Just want it to be "proper".
I only have the front neck so no volume or tone controls. Also, as only one neck, only two leg sockets.
I'm not gonna change this guitar at all. Just clean it up a bit & leave as is, cigerette burns and all.
What I am gonna do is make four legs, 2 for the guitar as is. Then i'm gonna get a 2X4. yes a 2X4. Drill holes thru the 2X4 to accomadate 1/4" rod so the 2X4 bolts on the back of the guitar as if it was a second neck. Then I can add 2 leck sockets to the 2X4 and the thing will stand up. Then I can screw a board of some type to the 2X4 and set my lap steel on it, like a steel guitar stand. AND if I do it right, I can just use the 2 front legs and stand the guitar onto the front of my S-10 P/P. Voila. I'll have a D neck with 8 no pedals on the front and a P/P on the back, OR use all four legs and It'll have a lap steel stand built in, 8 & 6 with no pedals. Also going to see if we can't make a little box with a volume & tone control.
Not gonna refinish it, not gonna drill any holes in it. The tuners work, even the "white" one. Leave 'em alone.
I'll put up a pic when it's done - already got the 1/4 rod and 2X4!
Just 'cause I look stupid, don't mean I'm not.
The pure nickel sets are the most authentic sounding replacements. www.steelguitarshopper.com/categories/S ... el-guitar/
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You understand that those switches are on/off for neck one, neck two, right? So they are virtually useless here. I'd have to remove the plate & check on my D-8 but if you have sufficient depth in the cavity, you could replace the switches with pots and wire this for volume/tone---either a generic scheme or the special circuit that that earliest Stringmaster had.
The pot stems (no seeds) could run right thru the square cutouts?
The pot stems (no seeds) could run right thru the square cutouts?
Wiring the switches as on/off for each pickup would be interesting.
NOS guitar strings are really worthless, Bud. Strings don't sound good after they've been coiled up in a paper envelope for 50 years. Sort of like a NOS donut - it might look interesting, but you wouldn't want to eat it.
The original strings were no doubt what we now call "pure nickel", round wound. The same idiot who butchered this guitar is probably the guy who put flat wounds on it.
NOS guitar strings are really worthless, Bud. Strings don't sound good after they've been coiled up in a paper envelope for 50 years. Sort of like a NOS donut - it might look interesting, but you wouldn't want to eat it.
The original strings were no doubt what we now call "pure nickel", round wound. The same idiot who butchered this guitar is probably the guy who put flat wounds on it.
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Re: A String question
How many is an easy question to answer - it is half of a double neck. Since it is the furthest neck from the player (with the Fender logo), if it were a triple (or quad, although it isn't thick enough for that) it would have a single on-off switch - assumimg the hardware belongs with that neck.Bud Angelotti wrote:I recently was given a basket case single neck stringmaster. The other necks, & how many, only god knows where they are.
Looks like you need to find (or make) a new nut for it.
- Bud Angelotti
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Thanks for the info fellers.
Yes, I'm going to start off with a set of "crappy" strings( not the NOS, just any old string) just to make sure there are no burrs or anything that would break a new ($$) string.
Also, thanks for the pickup switch idea .
Once a get some strings on it we can see what the switches are doing. Jon, I like your idea of the volume/tone pots.
As far as how many original necks, It's hard to see from the photos I posted, but under the tuner pan it reads 10-55, written in red pen, and then there is a # 3 in a different color ink. Wonder if that means it had 3 necks.
I think the "pickup selector hardware" has been changed around also. The instrument cable comes right out of the body, there is no jack to plug it in.
Thanks for the info & ideas! This machine is gonna sing again real soon!
Yes, I'm going to start off with a set of "crappy" strings( not the NOS, just any old string) just to make sure there are no burrs or anything that would break a new ($$) string.
Also, thanks for the pickup switch idea .
Once a get some strings on it we can see what the switches are doing. Jon, I like your idea of the volume/tone pots.
As far as how many original necks, It's hard to see from the photos I posted, but under the tuner pan it reads 10-55, written in red pen, and then there is a # 3 in a different color ink. Wonder if that means it had 3 necks.
I think the "pickup selector hardware" has been changed around also. The instrument cable comes right out of the body, there is no jack to plug it in.
Thanks for the info & ideas! This machine is gonna sing again real soon!
Just 'cause I look stupid, don't mean I'm not.
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I would get a peace of ash and bolt a blank next to it so it would be as wide as a double and give you a place for your picks, etc. Also more options for legs that way.
It is cool and worth fixing up.
It is cool and worth fixing up.
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- Bud Angelotti
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Thanks, I'll take that under advisement
I'n the meantime, here's another pic of the pickup switch cover. Notice how it looks like it's been clobbered with some kind of chisel or screwdriver with a blunt object.
Notice how it might not look like the original cover. The metal looks really different, in which case I could drill a hole thru it for volume/tone knobs. Does this cover look not right to any of you, besides it's obvious condition?
It might be the sweat from the original owners hand has oxidized the plate.
I'n the meantime, here's another pic of the pickup switch cover. Notice how it looks like it's been clobbered with some kind of chisel or screwdriver with a blunt object.
Notice how it might not look like the original cover. The metal looks really different, in which case I could drill a hole thru it for volume/tone knobs. Does this cover look not right to any of you, besides it's obvious condition?
It might be the sweat from the original owners hand has oxidized the plate.
Just 'cause I look stupid, don't mean I'm not.
- Bud Angelotti
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Just fwiw, as per Jeff's post, this was a D-8. With the two switches, it would have been the middle neck of a T-8 but with the shadow of the missing diamond bolt-hole covers and the decal, this would have been the front neck. Ergo two necks.
It's your deal and your choices but I find it sort of amusing to spend any energy or concern on the mission maintaining originality of this orphan.
However in the interest of accuracy and...any other reason you might wish to do this, as I mentioned and Basil also brought up, there was a special circuit used by this particular Version 1 model with which the pots actually did more than just vol & tone but actually worked the pickup mix as well. You might ask here as to whether people prefer the sound/versatility of this scheme or of the subsequent circuit.
It's your deal and your choices but I find it sort of amusing to spend any energy or concern on the mission maintaining originality of this orphan.
However in the interest of accuracy and...any other reason you might wish to do this, as I mentioned and Basil also brought up, there was a special circuit used by this particular Version 1 model with which the pots actually did more than just vol & tone but actually worked the pickup mix as well. You might ask here as to whether people prefer the sound/versatility of this scheme or of the subsequent circuit.
- Bud Angelotti
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If that plate has always been on that neck, it is definitely from a doubleneck.Bud Angelotti wrote:So this would've been the middle neck switches put on a front neck? Is that what I'm hearing?
As far as a mission maintaining originality of this orphan, just want to do the right thing, get it in playing condition and use it.
There is a possibility that it is the front neck (furthest from the player) from a triple neck but, if so, it has been given the control plate from the middle neck.
The most likely scenario in my opinion is that it is from a double, unless you have some other reason to suspect it is from a triple.
What Jeff said is what I am saying. See the triple here:
http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=273407
The middle neck would match your neck but a middle neck would not have the shadow of the diamond plate on the front or the decal. Therefore this neck was an outside neck and therefore it was from a double.
http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=273407
The middle neck would match your neck but a middle neck would not have the shadow of the diamond plate on the front or the decal. Therefore this neck was an outside neck and therefore it was from a double.
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