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Topic: Deusenberg Multibender |
Jonathan Lam
From:
Brooklyn, NY
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Alan Brookes
From:
Brummy living in Southern California
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Posted 5 Aug 2014 3:08 pm |
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| They take about 5 minutes to install at the most. You just unscrew the existing bridge and screw on the Multibender. Putting a set of new strings on is the longest part of the job. Just make sure that your lap steel has enough space between the old bridge and the tail of the guitar to accomodate the unit. Some do, some don't. I know for a fact that you can fit one onto the SX lap steels, as I've done it. What sort of lap steel do you have? |
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Steve Lipsey
From:
Portland, Oregon, USA
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Posted 5 Aug 2014 10:12 pm
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lots of interesting multi bender threads here, do a search...
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Williams S10s, Milkman Pedal Steel Mini & "The Amp"
Ben Bonham Resos, 1954 Oahu Diana, 1936 Oahu Parlor |
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Tom Pettingill
From:
California, USA (deceased)
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Posted 6 Aug 2014 8:48 am
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Definitely jump down the rabbit hole and do a search, lots of good info here on the Dusenberg.
On installation, I'm not nearly as fast as Alan, but they are pretty strait forward and not too tough.
In no particular order, a couple things to note.
The string spacing is 2 5/32" / 55mm, so may not be compatible with some of the 50mm spaced import pickups.
The bridge does not come with any mounting screws, I like to use some #6 x 1" stainless screws. Stainless is fairly easy to polish to a high shine and is generally stronger than some of the plated mystery metal options.
The saddles can be a little fidgety getting them all set in a strait line. I've found that it works well to set #1, then measure and cut a little block / spacer to fit the void behind the saddle and then use that as a guide / stop block to set #2 - #6.
While they can be setup to either raise or lower a string, in practice, they work best to raise. If you are setting up to lower, you want to avoid a too heavy of string gauge so as to keep the tension on that string from not overpowering the supplied return spring. If its not fully returning to pitch, try a gauge one lower.
A headstock design with a strait string pull across the nut is best. For a nut, I've been using Delrin / acetal, also sometimes known / marketed as slip stone. It works a treat and with a well cut nut, significantly reduces friction in the slot.
| Quote: |
| Polyoxymethylene, also known as acetal, polyacetal and polyformaldehyde, is an engineering thermoplastic used in precision parts requiring high stiffness, low friction and excellent dimensional stability. Wikipedia |
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Alan Brookes
From:
Brummy living in Southern California
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Posted 6 Aug 2014 9:19 am
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Continuing on from the idea of using a cheapo lap steel, and the dimensions, I have to say that Multibender WILL NOT FIT on the most popular cheapo lap steel, the Artisan, which is also sold under other names.
After a quick look at some of the lap steels hanging on my walls, without pulling any of the others out of their cases, I can say catagorically that the Multibender WILL NOT FIT on ANY of the following models:-
Airliner
Electromuse
Marss Cat Can
New Yorker
Any of the National Line
A lot of the older lap steels use the area behind the bridge for volume and tone controls, which is just where the Multibender would have to go. Those that have the tone controls to the side of the strings usually have their bridges very close to the tailpiece to save wood and make the units shorter and lighter.
The best way to ensure a good fit is to build your own lap steel. After all, a lap steel is just a plank with strings and a pickup; the rest is just cosmetic. As someone who has built many different instruments over the years, I have to say that by far the easiest to build is a lap steel. I once built one in two hours. It took longer than that for the paint to dry.  |
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Jonathan Lam
From:
Brooklyn, NY
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Alan Brookes
From:
Brummy living in Southern California
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Posted 6 Aug 2014 12:39 pm
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| Let's see a photograph. |
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Peter Funk
From:
Germany
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Posted 18 Aug 2014 1:48 am
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The tuning that works best (in my opinion) is Open D (or Open E if you prefer). Gives you the opportunity to raise the second string a whole step and the third string a half step.
... done it here,here, & here |
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Tony Boadle
From:
Skibbereen, County Cork, Ireland
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Posted 19 Aug 2014 5:45 am Multibender
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IMHO, after literally hours of experimentation and countless questions and answers on the SGF, I've settled on a great tuning. Try this (lo to hi)....
B C# E G# B E. Set the levers to raise the G# to A and the top B to C#. (You could also try tuning the 5th string C# to D )
I think the tuning is taken from the PSG E6th or 7th set-up. I stand to be corrected.
It's a great compromise between and open chord and a Country/Swing sound.
BTW Alan....pic attached of my Rondo/SX/Artisan type-steel, with a Multibender fitted. Where there's a will etc !
Last edited by Tony Boadle on 19 Aug 2014 5:53 am; edited 1 time in total |
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Tony Boadle
From:
Skibbereen, County Cork, Ireland
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Posted 19 Aug 2014 5:50 am Tuning
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OK, I'll try again with the photo...
And another view...
And finally, my RK with a Multibender, my pride and joy (for now!)...and that's a George Boards peel-n-stick fretboard in case you're wonderin'....
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Alan Brookes
From:
Brummy living in Southern California
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Posted 19 Aug 2014 8:49 am Re: Multibender
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| Tony Boadle wrote: |
| ...BTW Alan....pic attached of my Rondo/SX/Artisan type-steel, with a Multibender fitted. Where there's a will etc ! |
If you're willing to build a body extension piece you can fit the Multibender onto almost anything.
I thought you were looking for a five minute installation. It must have taken you hours to fabricate that cover plate, etc. 
Nice job, by the way.  |
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David Stilley
From:
Santa Cruz, California, USA
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Posted 21 Aug 2014 3:46 pm Little off subject but...
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Hi Alan,
Do you know of anyone using the Hipshot Trilogy bridge for a lap steel build? No pitch bending but lots of tuning variations with a flick of a few levers. I've heard Tele players comment that you have to check the fine tuning each time you change levers/tunings but they're supposed to be fairly accurate. Popular with people who play lots of Bottle-neck blues style slide.
_________________
GFI Ultra U-12 7+5 E9/B6, Roland Cube 80XL, Telonics FP-100 Volume pedal with TMRS remote sensor (courtesy of Dave Beaty and Telonics) |
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Alan Brookes
From:
Brummy living in Southern California
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Posted 21 Aug 2014 5:24 pm
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I don't personally know anyone using a Hipshot Trilogy on a lap steel, although there must be plenty of them because they make an 8-string version especially for lap steels.
I have a Framus 8-string lap steel which has a built-in mechanism similar to but more accurate than the Trilogy. Check out this post:-
http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=267469&highlight=framus
As you know, I recently put a Trilogy on a dulcimer, and right now I'm in the process of converting a regular acoustic 12-string guitar to an 8-string with an 8-string Trilogy. The idea is that I like to play 7-string guitars, because I find the extra bass string at B is vital when playing a boogie rhythm on the bass. The additional 8th string is going to be a drone string, as on a banjo. I have a 7-string banjo which is tuned like a guitar except it has a high drone for the 7th string, and gives me a lot of versatility when playing the blues.
12-string acoustic guitars have wider fingerboards than regular 6-strings, and they're the same width as the fingerboard on a 7-string acoustic, so the conversion is fairly simple. The Trilogy will enable me to drop the two bottom strings to D and A when playing in the key of D, and also to tune to open E and A chords very simply. |
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Erv Niehaus
From:
Litchfield, MN, USA
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Posted 22 Aug 2014 7:05 am
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I put the Hipshot Trilogy on a couple of lap steels:
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