Fender Dual Professional D8 Tuning Pan -- Yes... again

Jim Stringer · Post by **Jim Stringer** » 8 Dec 2013 9:15 pm

I'd really like to get my early 50's Dual Pro fixed. I've had absolutely no luck in getting the tuner fixed, bidding on a part on eBay... you name it. I know many have had this issue... anyone have new suggestions. Here's a picture of my issue:

Note that this is one of Leo's early "welded" units... all in one. I love this guitar -- these short scale Dual Professionals have a unique sound that just can't be duplicated. I'm sending the whole piece to a machinist friend of mine.... I'll report back with his comments.

Chris Lucker · Post by **Chris Lucker** » 8 Dec 2013 10:15 pm

Ask Beaumier and those guys who find fault with people parting out guitars. They must know a place where you can buy new old stock replacement tuning pans.

Doug Beaumier · Post by **Doug Beaumier** » 9 Dec 2013 12:15 am

Chris, I only find fault with sellers who take apart complete, working guitars to sell the parts, as I have said here many times. I have no problem with selling parts from incomplete guitars with broken or missing parts.

Chris Lucker · Post by **Chris Lucker** » 9 Dec 2013 1:09 am

What is the difference if the parts go to complete other guitars?

If one complete guitar is parted out and the parts complete just two other guitars that were missing parts, the world is ahead one complete guitar.

If the parts complete three guitars, even better.

I asked before, and no one offered a source for new old stock parts.

Ron Landis · Post by **Ron Landis** » 9 Dec 2013 12:04 pm

I hope to be able to supply some new replacement parts for Stringmasters in the near future. It seems as though there is enough demand for these it would be worth it to tool up to make tuning pans, control panels, fretboards and and the like.

My partner in this venture is a machinist who specializes in molds for the plastics industry. I just got off the phone with him and told me he could make the black plastic pickup covers for the later models.

This thread is just another reminder of how frustrating it can be to keep these treasures playable. I don't know about making tuners yet, but it's certainly something I will keep in mind if this thing ever gets off the ground. We're both busy with other careers and doing this in our "spare time" for now, so I can't offer any exact date these things may be available. I'll make an announcement on the new products page when we're ready.

Jerome Hawkes · Post by **Jerome Hawkes** » 9 Dec 2013 2:02 pm

i sent my tuner pan to a guy in Illinois that was doing these a few years ago - maybe someone can recall his name - got it off the old forum. he is not cheap, about $100 per tuner, but what you gonna do? - i had 2 tuners going bad on mine. he has the parts and re-brazes them.

Rick Collins · Post by **Rick Collins** » 9 Dec 2013 4:11 pm

Jim Stringer, use your existing pans and replace the tuners.
This takes a little work, but the tuners will be better than new and you'll never need to replace them or repair them again.

I'm replacing 24 tuners on my '54 triple Stringmaster __ it has the 26" scale.

Buy the Grover Sta-Tite H97-18N tuners from Stewmac. They are 18:1 gear ratio instead of 12:1 but I like them better.

1. Unsolder the finger piece of the Grover tuner.
2. Cut the plate on which the worm gear is mounted on both ends to fit.
3. Turn about 1/16" off the inside end of the capstan (cross shaft on which the string winds) to fit.
4. You'll need to ream the hole though which the vertical shaft goes (just enough to fit).
5. The lollipop finger piece will soldier right back onto that shaft.
6. Soldier the original copper strip back onto the new tuners to hold them in place.
7. You may need to rasp-off some of the wood on each side of the hole in which the tuner pan sits (if it's a tighter fit).

...hope this helps.

Jim Stringer · Post by **Jim Stringer** » 17 Dec 2013 9:22 pm

Rick Collins wrote:Jim Stringer, use your existing pans and replace the tuners...

Thanks for the suggestions, Rick... I will likely try this myself, or send this along to a machinist friend of mine who has offered to look at the pan/tuners. I replaced tuners on a '59 Stringmaster that I later sold.. it was quite easy. The solder makes me a little uneasy... I don't think my old Weller will handle that. I had thought it was a weld, so at least that's a bit of an improvement.

Jim Stringer · Post by **Jim Stringer** » 17 Dec 2013 9:30 pm

Jerome Hawkes wrote:i sent my tuner pan to a guy in Illinois...

Thanks, Jerome... if I thought I could get a "drop-in" replacement for $100, I'd be ELATED! Spare parts of auction sites are nearly impossible to score and I hate to contribute to parting out these incredible instruments, or running up the prices... it's feels like the equivalent of bidding on black rhino horns. Besides, the parted out pans are likely about to break, themselves. Anyway... if someone knows the name, I'd appreciate it if you'd pass it along.

Jim Stringer · Post by **Jim Stringer** » 17 Dec 2013 9:37 pm

Ron Landis wrote:I hope to be able to supply some new replacement parts for Stringmasters...

Do you think that might be extended to Dual Professional guitars? The early 50s are most vulnerable, from what I've seen. Metal fatigue has just destroyed this thing. It seems to me that it would be possible, looking at the instrument, to make a pan which could be fit with modern, replaceable tuners. Granted, they'll no longer be certifiable vintage -- but I just want my "player" back. <sigh>

T.J. Pluhacek · Post by **T.J. Pluhacek** » 18 Dec 2013 5:18 pm

Hey Jim. I'm having my 53 Dual Pro restored right now and have also had issues with the tuning posts, though slightly different issues than shown in your picture. My parents live in Portland, Oregon, and I live about an hour and a half south but frequently visit. I brought in one of the tuning pans into the top repair shop in Portland, The Twelfth Fret, on my last trip up, and one of the guys there who does work on pedal steels was able to replace all 8 tuners for around $200...and that includes parts and labor. Over the phone, he said it ended up being a lot more intense than he intended and took nearly 4 hours, though it would take less time for the second pan. He didn't drill in from the outside to get to the posts, he was able to keep the original "lollypop" buttons, and it now has all new posts and all new gears. (The new tuners ordered and used were from a 12-string set from Stew-Mac that were in-a-line for a slotted headstock acoustic guitar, $80 with shipping.) I'm going to pick it up probably on Friday, so I can let you know what he says he did. With that being said, try bringing it to a good local repair shop and explain to them what it would take to replace the tuners, and see what they come back with. I was quite surprised by the low cost of having it done at The Twelfth Fret, where I bring all my vintage gear, so you could always call them up and send it in. (The guy to talk to about this is Russ.) At least he knows how to deal with these now, and the price is super reasonable.

Jim Rossen · Post by **Jim Rossen** » 18 Jun 2014 5:25 am

See these 12 string tuners from Stu Mac.
I wonder if one could cut to four on a side and use as a strip? Replace buttons with the original lollipops?
Anyone have a Dual Pro to measure? Mine is in transit.

Mike Neer · Post by **Mike Neer** » 18 Jun 2014 7:44 am

There are 2 things you'll need to repair these tuners:

1. You'll need a spare set of classical guitar tuners (the 3 on a strip type). We will be cannibalizing these tuners for their worm gears.

2. The second thing you need is a Dremel hand tool with a small bit capable of working metal. The worm gear's inside opening will typically need to be enlarged in order to seat it properly on the capstan.

One you've taken off the old worm gear, take the worm gear from your new tuner. Try to fit it on the shaft--if it's no go, then you've got to enlarge the opening. Once you do that, the gear should drop right. Screw the worm gear to the shaft and replace the tuning pan on your guitar and you are back in business.

Jim Rossen · Post by **Jim Rossen** » 18 Jun 2014 8:53 am

Looks like Jim has a bad worm on his tuner and will need more than a worm gear replacement.

Jim

T.J. Pluhacek · Post by **T.J. Pluhacek** » 18 Jun 2014 9:52 am

Yep, those Stu-Mac tuners will be a perfect fit. That's exactly what I had done to mine when I realized it was the shafts that were the problem since replacing the gears alone didn't fix my particular issue. Buy the 12-string tuners from Stu-Mac, get the end tuners clipped off, remove the lollipop buttons, and reinstall them on the new tuners. My first one got finished about 6 months ago, and it works perfectly. Note that you won't need that curled brass plate anymore since it was only used to originally attach individual tuners to.

Tim Whitlock · Post by **Tim Whitlock** » 19 Jun 2014 8:26 am

That's a really nice, clean looking solution. Better that the original set. Can be easily done with a small butane torch, some solder and a little finagling.

Jim Rossen · Post by **Jim Rossen** » 19 Jun 2014 8:39 am

Do the capstans need to be removed and reinstalled to get the tuner assembly in position? Are the capstans the correct diameter and length for the pan holes? It would be great if someone would post a step by step instruction with photos of this replacement... maybe me if a simpler fix will not serve.

William Rasch · Post by **William Rasch** » 10 Oct 2014 1:14 pm

Old thread but I thought I'd make a try. Has anyone used the Stew Mac 12 string tuners with success on a stringmaster? Hoping someone has without alterations to the pan.

William Rasch · Post by **William Rasch** » 10 Oct 2014 1:14 pm

Old thread but I thought I'd make a try. Has anyone used the Stew Mac 12 string tuners with success on a stringmaster? Hoping someone has without alterations to the pan. Sorry about the double post