Problem with Carter

Jim Whitford · Post by **Jim Whitford** » 28 Apr 2014 7:50 am

I recently bought a Carter 2006 D10 which I've been using a lot for the last month or so. Plays great, stays in tune, etc until I changed strings yesterday.
Now the 3 string on the E9 neck won't stay in pitch. It keeps going flat. I've replaced it twice and still goes flat. Same gauge and brand of strings that I put on when I got it. Can't see any mechanical issue.
Anyone have an idea what's going on? Thanks

Lane Gray · Post by **Lane Gray** » 28 Apr 2014 7:55 am

How many winds on the peg?
The most common cause for drifting flat is slipping on the peg. When I install them, I always run the first wind to the outside of the keyhead, and then all subsequent winds to the inside, and make sure there's enough winds to clear the string hole.
I can think of only two causes for strings drifting flat (after the initial stretching):
1) bad strings
2) CEBCAG (Cause exists between chair and guitar)

Howard Parker · Post by **Howard Parker** » 28 Apr 2014 8:36 am

The nylon hex tuner may be stripped.

h

Jim Whitford · Post by **Jim Whitford** » 28 Apr 2014 8:49 am

Lane, I can think of a lot of problems between the the guy sitting on the chair and the guitar, but I haven't had this particular problem before.
As I said, I've tried several strings.
Maybe Howard is on to something. I'll swap out a nylon tuner and see if that helps. Thank you both

Lane Gray · Post by **Lane Gray** » 28 Apr 2014 8:50 am

If Jim means the B pedal, I agree with Howard.
I assumed he meant the G# is drifting.
If the A is drifting, try switching the nylon nut from another string, like the 5th string C pedal. If the problem moves to the 5th string, then you need another nut: they're available from nearly all steel-based stores (Palenscar, Bradshaw, Billy Cooper, Frenchy's, Scotty's).

Howard Parker · Post by **Howard Parker** » 28 Apr 2014 9:19 am

I made an assumption it was returning flat and not going flat just sitting there.

You know what they say about assumptions!

If it has nothing to do with the B pedal I'd take a close look at the tuning post/wraps.

Can't think of anything else.

h

Jim Eaton · Post by **Jim Eaton** » 28 Apr 2014 9:37 am

I don't remember if Carter has a slot for the string on the changer finger or a pin for the ball end.
If it has a pin, check it to see if it is starting to break and it's causing your de-tuning issue.
Saw this happen on an old Sho Bud once.
JE:-)>

Richard Sinkler · Post by **Richard Sinkler** » 28 Apr 2014 9:43 am

Carter uses a slot at the changer.

Rick Barnhart · Post by **Rick Barnhart** » 28 Apr 2014 9:46 am

Give the 3rd string plenty of length before trimming and winding it. Leaving it short can cause premature breakage and tuning issues. Carter uses a slot, not a pin at the changer.

Jim Eaton · Post by **Jim Eaton** » 28 Apr 2014 9:48 am

Note to self: Carter has slot, not pin on changer finger.

JE:-)>

Richard Sinkler · Post by **Richard Sinkler** » 28 Apr 2014 9:49 am

My rule of thumb is to cut the strings 2 tuning pegs past the one I am stringing up. Of course, the real heavy strings, like on the C6, I can't use that rule and usually just go a little more that 1 peg.

Jim Whitford · Post by **Jim Whitford** » 28 Apr 2014 12:40 pm

When I opened the case to work on the guitar the 3rd string was completely loose! I replaced the string again cutting the string a bit longer than usual. (I usually go two pegs past and never had a problem)
Working fine now. I'm thinking I might have had a run of a few bad strings?

Howard Parker · Post by **Howard Parker** » 28 Apr 2014 12:46 pm

Doubtful. I'd guess that you need to wind more wraps around that tuner.

That skinny string needs something to grip.

Glad the issue is resolved.

h

Lane Gray · Post by **Lane Gray** » 28 Apr 2014 2:54 pm

I wrap on both sides of the string so that string tension holds it tight.

Jim Whitford · Post by **Jim Whitford** » 29 Apr 2014 5:00 am

Thank you all!

Jon Light · Post by **Jon Light** » 29 Apr 2014 5:07 am

Just fwiw, directly from the mouth of John Fabian and what I do on all guitars--2 post lengths of extra for all strings except the 3rd string which gets 4 posts.
In addition to the extra winds for stability, you also walk the winds away from the hole in the post, protecting this little string from the abrasion of this disruption.

Larry Bressington · Post by **Larry Bressington** » 5 May 2014 7:03 pm

Cross the string over itself after the first wind pinching the string to the peg...this also slows down breakage as there is a cushion for the string to sit on. 4-6 winds on 3rd string really helps and alleviates breakage.

Doug Garrick · Post by **Doug Garrick** » 6 May 2014 7:01 am

Jim, next time you replace that string check the roller for excess play. That hole may be washed out. I oil the roller axle every string change. Plus I rotate the rollers to new positions every string change to prevent any single roller from always being on one of the strings that gets a lot of pedal/knee lever action. This helps keep the wear on the rollers even and minimal.

Lee Dassow · Post by **Lee Dassow** » 6 May 2014 12:31 pm

Yes, I believe Jons right. It's not good to go wind
over the holes especially on those thin strings! Great information from John Fabian. Just my opinion. Tennessee Lee

Donny Hinson · Post by **Donny Hinson** » 7 May 2014 7:40 am

I always do 7 or 8 wraps on the fine wires.

Sonny Jenkins · Post by **Sonny Jenkins** » 8 May 2014 7:41 am

Another PLUS for keyless,,,,,,,,,,

Jim Whitford · Post by **Jim Whitford** » 12 May 2014 2:12 pm

Been away from the computer for a while. Thanks for all the suggestions. I think Jon hit the nail on the head.
I've always cut the string two winds or so past the tuning key and it's always worked. I gave it a lot more with the 3rd string and it did the trick