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Post new topic lowering the 6th string
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Author Topic:  lowering the 6th string
Frank Parish

 

From:
Nashville,Tn. USA
Post  Posted 1 Mar 2014 4:59 am    
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Dumb question but since I never have trouble with this guitar I guess I forgot how to do this but how do I lower the 6th string a whole step and get the 7th note when I engaged the B pedal? I've done this before but for some reason I'm having trouble with it.
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Jerry Jones


From:
Franklin, Tenn.
Post  Posted 1 Mar 2014 5:09 am    
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Do you lower your 6th string with a PF pedal as well as a knee lever? And do you have a set screw behind the changer 6th string? Kind of guitar?
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Frank Parish

 

From:
Nashville,Tn. USA
Post  Posted 1 Mar 2014 5:14 am    
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It's a Carter and I do have the OF 4th pedal. It's always worked fine but now when I lower the 6th on the KL and engage the B pedal it's only going down about a half so I'm not getting where it needs to be
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Dennis Wireman

 

From:
North West Indiana 47978
Post  Posted 1 Mar 2014 5:21 am     lowering 6
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Frank I have the same problem . I can only get mine to go half step will not tune whole step with nylon nut. Nut bottoms out before I can get it there, hope some one can help us
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Jerry Jones


From:
Franklin, Tenn.
Post  Posted 1 Mar 2014 5:28 am    
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With my Zum, tune the split note first with the usual nylon hex tuning nut and tune the whole step lower with the blue nylon nut. I would back both nuts out a bit before starting. Doesn't Carter use an extra rod at the changer?
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Frank Parish

 

From:
Nashville,Tn. USA
Post  Posted 1 Mar 2014 5:44 am    
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Yes it's a triple raise triple lower and there is two rods on each. It was working but somewhere I've got this thing out of adjustment. I've got the book somewhere but I'll never find it. I've been lowering the 6th string a whole step adjustment first and then the top nylon for the 7th tone so maybe I'm doing it backwards.
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Jerry Jones


From:
Franklin, Tenn.
Post  Posted 1 Mar 2014 6:23 am    
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Once you tune a split note using the normal lowering rod you should notice that the resulting full tone lower is now flat and must be compensated with either the addition of a slight pull on the raise finger (blue nut on my Zum) or a dead stop with set screw at the end of the neck. If your guitar has set screw splits and you're not using them, make sure to back them out so they don't interfere with your full step lower.
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Last edited by Jerry Jones on 1 Mar 2014 8:28 am; edited 1 time in total
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 1 Mar 2014 6:32 am    
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Tune it in the following order:
Back off the raise rod on the lever so it does nothing. Do thiß anytime things aren't right.
Tune open:
Tune A pedal
Tune the Franklin pedal
Tune the lower/B pedal split with the lowering rod of the lever.
Tune the F# of the lever with the raise rod of the lever
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Tucker Jackson

 

From:
Portland, Oregon, USA
Post  Posted 2 Mar 2014 10:28 am    
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Quote:
I've been lowering the 6th string a whole step adjustment first and then the top nylon for the 7th tone so maybe I'm doing it backwards.


Yep, in case you didn't get it from other's comments, that's backwards. Tune the split note first using the lower nut, then the 6th string lower using the upper nut.
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Frank Parish

 

From:
Nashville,Tn. USA
Post  Posted 2 Mar 2014 12:10 pm    
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I got it now and appreciate all who responded!
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Mickey Adams


From:
Bandera Texas
Post  Posted 2 Mar 2014 7:25 pm    
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Frank, the availability of the string 6 lower/A Pedal raise combination is a product of the spilt configuration, and the pedal/Lever travel stops...Please post your guitar type, and I will be happy to explain it to you thoroughly,,,
http://bb.steelguitarforum.com/viewtopic.php?t=261698
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Dustin Rigsby


From:
Parts Unknown, Ohio
Post  Posted 2 Mar 2014 7:37 pm    
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steelguitar.com still has this info in the ask Bud section. I have an MSA with only a 2up/2dn changer. I tune the lower with the B pedal engaged and have to listen for the open lower lick. It's a compromise. I wish I could afford to have the changer drilled and tapped for split tuners.
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Lane Gray


From:
Topeka, KS
Post  Posted 3 Mar 2014 5:02 am    
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Dustin, the geometry of the end block on an MSA won't allow for drilling. But you can add another rod to the lever, going to the other raise hole. Use the lowering rod on the lever to tune the G, tune the F# with the raise rod on the lever. The same method Carter used.
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